A certain Ermenegildo Zegna makes a ‘Nawab Collection’ inspired by traditional Indian men’s trousseau and the European markets go overboard appreciating the ‘novel’ designs!

Pick up any creation by a high-end designer from the posh studios in fashion streets of Europe and chances of finding the tag, ‘Made in India’ are huge. India’s fashion industry is growing; designs are getting popular, people in the fashion savvy European markets know who Anamika Khanna and Manish Arora are, everything is looking great but for one thing - awareness about Indian fashion fraternity. “People in the West believe Zegna has invented trousseau designs, but the fact is Indian designers introduced the same to the world long time back. They need to be told that the list of names of Indian designers is a lengthier one,” complains Barkha and Sonzal, the designer duo who are in the city to participate in Wedding Asia, an exhibition.

And what would take Indian fashion fraternity closer to worldwide success is travelling the fashion capitals of the world and showcasing collections at major events, just as Barkha and Sonzal did with their collection, Rockprince, which was showcased at the Indian Premier London Fashion Week (IPLFW).

As for the designs they have brought to the city, they say, “A complete trousseau collection comprising evergreen bandgalas and sherwanis.” On one hand, they are introducing Indian designs to the world while on the other bringing home the lesser-known traditional crafts of other countries. “We have made ‘sherwanis’ and bandgalas with the dory technique, the traditional craft of Egypt, where you weave the cloth in a particular way,” says Sonzal.

Out with their official brand now, called Barkha and Sonzal, it wasn’t surprising to know that santoor maestro Pandit Shiv Kumar Sharma modelled for them, as Barkha is married in the musician’s family. “We had to be rather conscious while designing for him. The dress was something classy that matched his personality and music,” says Barkha.

Back to the collection; the duo designs only for men, when even the male models can’t afford to ignore the huge women clientele! “Very few designers make clothes exclusively for men. The market is unexplored, which we want to tap along with a few other male designers.” They are conscious of the market for men’s wear in the region as well. “The marriages are grand here and so has to be the wedding gear of men. People give more attention to the bride’s outfit because men don’t have much to choose from. The scene will change gradually.”

Besides their collection, their claim to fame is that they have designed for the likes of Kelly G and Arun Nayyar. “The designs find clients in India and abroad because we target the global markets. We intersperse traditional Indian designs with contemporary western wear, rendering a different look to the outfits.”

Just like majority of the designers these days, they too have contributed to a social cause. Sonzal gives the details. “We made a collection to promote the cause taken up by PETA to inspire people to turn vegetarian.” And understandably, ‘bandgalas’ were made with beans weaved in a cloth; cabbage was used for the collar and buttons were made with brinjal. An effort worth it!

ashima@tribunemail.com

Sushmita Sen is tired of being quizzed about her wedding plans but the Bollywood beauty says that she will definitely tie the knot one day.Grapevine is abuzz that the former Miss Universe has recently broken up with former Pakistani cricketer Wasim Akram, but she refused to address the rumours.

Sushmita, 34, kept mum on the whole issue saying, "It's all rubbish and I don't want to talk about it." However the single mother, who raises two adopted daughters, said that she would definitely tie the knot in the future."I will definitely get married but it is not that it has to happen at a certain age. I am tired of answering how my man will look. I will bring in the sample for everyone when I find the right person," Sushmita, who was in the Capital to promote estate group Assotech said.But does it get taxing at times to manage personal and professional life all on her own? "When you have love in your life and respect what you do, you get up and do things. Yes, definitely I do feel tired but when I look around and she how privileged I am, I get going," Sushmita said.But the year hasn't been smooth for Sushmita.

She launched I Am She a platform to select the Indian representative for the Miss Universe pageant. But her chosen candidate Ushoshi Sengupta, failed to even make it to the top 15. "People who try to tackle failure, attract failure The more you indulge in analysis it gets tougher. So just keep making mistakes and learn," she said. Actor Freida Pinto had recently said that she decided to become an actor after seeing Sushmita win the 1994 Miss Universe competition."Life comes as a full circle. It feels good when you become someone's idol," Sushmita said. — PTI 

Actor Tannishtha Chatterjee, who garnered international plaudits with films like Brick Lane and Shadows of Time, says she is ready to sink her teeth into Bollywood and wants more woman directors to call the shots in B-town.

"Getting accepted on the international film festival circuit is fantastic. I am loved and celebrated there (in the West). But I would definitely want to work more in India with directors and independent filmmakers back home, especially with women. I think it is time to change the male domination in Bollywood," Tannishtha, who recently performed a musical show at the Royal Opera House in London said.

"Women are treated in a particular manner in Indian film industry. Today the fairer sex is empowered, armed with more purchasing power but she still faces an old bias when it comes to stories, direction. We need more scripts that relate and appeal to women...that give them an opportunity to do meaty and author-backed roles," she said.The Bengali actor is also performing in a play based on seven monologues in Delhi this month with veteran Shabana Azmi. "The play is called Seven. Vital Voices, a leading international NGO which aims to bring visibility to extraordinary women around the world and promote their leadership potential, has commissioned it. All the seven stories are very powerful and about real life women who have been fighting for their space. I was thrilled when Shabana called me for a role," said the actor. "I am essaying the role of Hafsat Abiola, daughter of late Nigeria President-elect Moshood Abiola. She is a human rights and democracy activist. It is about her pain, trials and tribulations after her father was jailed for treason and later died in detention. Her mother Kudirat was also killed," said the actor. — PTI

Bollywood actor Ajay Devgan will have to shell out Rs 100 as fine for smoking at a public place during the shooting of his upcoming film Golmaal 3 in Goa in May this year.

 "A fine notice will be issued to the actor today following a complaint filed by the Director of Health Services," police said.

The 'Omkara' actor was also fined in January this year for smoking in a public place in Chandigarh. — PTI

Another day, another Punjabi movie…but this time it has something new in store. The change comes in the form of Ish Amitoj Kaur, the lady behind the script, production and direction of Punjabi movie Chhevan Dariya.

She minces no words when it comes to how people perceive 'the credibility of women directors', she has no hesitation whatsoever about how Punjabi movies released abroad hold a greater audience than back home in Punjab; more than anything else Ish is confident of her subject and the reasons that went behind taking it up. In the city for the promotion of Chhevan Dariya, director Ish and actor Lakhwinder Wadali share their side of the story.

Carving her own path - Ish Amitoj Kaur

Some people believe in exploring new paths, taking the regular route is just not their thing. Ish Amitoj Kaur fits well in this category. So, when she decided the title 'Chhevan Dariya', treating it well and in her own style was the first and foremost priority on her mind. Having worked with Manmohan Singh and Chandra Prakash Trivedi, having understood the nitty gritty's of theatre from NSD, Ish knew her film had to be different. "The topic on drug abuse is different and fresh. I believe in a strong script and screenplay. The story of my film doesn't shift frame from Punjab to Scotland for effect sake. The actor, Lakhwinder Wadali received proper training, went in for theatre workshops to carry out the role well. Every song has a meaning and a right placement. Nothing at all is for the heck of it," says Ish, who is now settled in California.

All fair and square, but coming from a woman director, there has to be more, it certainly wouldn't have been a cakewalk. She smiles, pauses, "You know how people react to a lady working in Punjab. First, they couldn't believe I was making the film, then it was impossible to digest that I am done with the making and the film is ready for release." Ish gives all credit to her cast and crew for supporting her and showing professionalism during the shoot. "I faced no problem during the shoot. The entire crew was professional. Everything boils down to how well you know your work. If you know it too tell, nobody can question it," puts in this director, who single-handedly marketed her debut movie Kambdi Kalai (shivering wrist). This time she does the same, "I am promoting and marketing the movie myself. I believe in my subject and work," she confidently declares.

Chhevan Dariya is a crossover movie 'neat' on the entertainment quotient. "I was clear that I had to make a light movie with some meaningful message. It has the right kind of romance, action, message and fun." Talking to her brings out a surprising fact, 'Audiences abroad welcome Punjabi cinema more than what people back home do. If two Punjabi movies fail to make a mark, the fate of the third is dicey," Ish admits.

Actor prepares - Lakhwinder Wadali

Singers turning to acting in Punjabi cinema are common. But what isn't regular is a singer preparing and going an extra mile to prepare himself for the act. Lakhwinder Wadali, the lead actor of Chhevan Dariya went for a one-month training course from Majha Rang Manch so that he could face the camera like an actor and not a singer. "I liked the subject, but when I read my role I found it demanded a lot more. This role wasn't for a singer-turned-actor," shares Lakhwinder. "I refused to do the film because I wasn't sure whether I could do it." On the director's suggestion Lakhwinder joined Majha Rang Manch, and trained under Kewal Dhaliwal. "I learnt how to face the camera, give the right expressions. So much so, I did a play with them called Ruth Malma Di Aayi, which also gave me the confidence to do the movie."

jasmine@tribunemail.com

Everything loud hitherto is hush-hush now…it's an exercise in personal theory of communication. Amplified speeches give way to requesting whispers, bunch of 20 campaigning make way for one-to-one and public convincing steps aside for personal introductions. As the Panjab University goes to polls today, those in the fray confide of their last minute 'revision' plans.

It's no more a display of strength or popularity, on the face of it; it's more like a lull after the storm. Shares Ranjodh Singh, in the fray as representative of Department of Laws, "Right now we are only going door-to-door in hostels, personally meeting people and convincing them. It's all at very personal level now, also because by this time we know who can still be convinced and who cannot be." It's a meek and a mute affair and the tall claims get replaced by "hey, hope you voting for me."

He adds, "But at this point of time, nobody launches into detailed discussions or arguments, all we tell them is to come and vote, whoever they choose."

The students are yet to mark their ballots, for those being marked, it's goose bumps galore. What's difficult is to stay put, not do anything; think anything. Laughs Narender Gujjar, political science student, active student politico, "It's a little difficult to not do anything, the only thing that worries a little at this point of time is that at the last minute nothing should go haywire. A small incident at the end can spoil your chances significantly." What everyone agrees on is right before the varsity's exercise in democracy, there's a calm after the carnival. Adds Gujjar, "We are sending personal messages to people, making calls to friends, in turn asking them to make further calls to their friends. We are trying to meet as many people as possible in the hostels, in the mess."

For others it's a welcome back to normalcy, break from the mass bashes, free movie tickets et al; it's back to sensible school of campaigning. In practice are texting last minute advisories like bringing along your I-cards, reaching on time etc. Confides one; "We are also texting them the respective numbers of our party's panel so that it's etched on their minds, they vote in that sequence and choose our candidates."

What of the day of the elections? Are they holding back or leaving just about no chances? Shares Ranjodh, "We won't do or say anything in the department, one look at the people's faces and we know who's come to vote for us and who's not." Perhaps there's nothing much to do. Shares Udey Singh Wirring, active student politician, "I'll just stand outside my department and just be there, won't do much." His eleventh hour efforts too involve the usual. "It's a holiday, just a day before the elections, this has never happened before. All we are doing is making personal calls to our friends and asking them to please come and vote at least." Whatever, we second. Do come to vote!

manpriya@tribunemail.com

The greatest casualty of foreign travel is food. Leaving India augurs an enforced sabbatical from the best food possible. The aromas, spices, variety fade away with the first meal offered on any airline. Passenger complaints are softened with a fine list of wines, beverages and alcohol, to help them cope with what follows on the menu. It could be that our palates have lost their finer nuances or it could be that the rest of the world is oblivious to strong, often adventurous and definitive tastes. By the time the pudding comes, even a sweet-toothed creature like me is crying out for kaju burfi or hot jalebis instead of the gelatinous, soap-like brick placed on ones tray.

Returning to India means stepping off the aircraft and digging into fresh-off-the-tava aloo-paranthas with dahi at Murthal, or the first dinner with Kerala spices at Swagath. For greater variety, I might even hit Sagar Ratna at the Plaza or Chawla's cream chicken in Sector 8. Food is what we have missed in the USA, inspite of Jackson Heights (Jaikishan Heights for the uninitiated) in New York or Darjee's Eatery at Hobart, Tasmania.

Nostalgia flooded the mind the moment I opened Matthew Evans recipe page in the Sunday Age, July 17. He lives in Tasmania and created the famous TV series, Gourmet Farmer. "Jewel's Red Bean Curry…from a family friend in Chandigarh, India," reads the blurb. There is only one Aunt Jewel in Chandigarh and this has to be her recipe for rajmah. Evans advises canned beans for quicker results, but that can never produce the real Mcoy, as rajmah requires slow cooking and a large dollop of clotted cream. He also leaves out the red chillies, so much a part of ethnic Indian cuisine.

In Goa, red beans are made with meat or sausages. In Mexico they are had with tortillas and are quite tame. At home, any bean will not do. The best rajmah is from Jammu. It is squarish in shape, almost black-maroon, small and flavoursome. Pratibha brought us some from her home-town and we have been addicts ever since. Large kidney beans offer bulk but are dull. Rajmah has to be soaked the night before for the full flavour to emerge. Ask any Punjabi child about their favourite foods and they will answer: rajmah chaval.

I consider myself a fairly adventurous foodie, but Down Under, I tried the freshest raw oysters with a squeeze of lime and sprigs of parsley. They cost the earth and tasted like the worst gloop I've ever had. Yet smoked oysters for Rs 20 per piece, are worth every morsel. In New York I gagged over rubbery escargots, (garden snails to you and me) but relished roundels of octopus in cheese sauce. A clam soup at the Leela, Mumbai, made me ask the French chef if he had emptied the dish washer into my bowl. And yet Michael's fragrant cream of asparagus soup is something to die for. Surprisingly, sushi in seaweed blankets has become one of my favourites, and I still salivate over squid tossed in typical, sharp, tangy Goan sauces. Am I the earthy rustic who cannot cope with international fine dining or has the world become pretentious as it oohs and aahs over obviously strange tastes? Or are culinary gurus creating a fashion to cope with impending food shortages? At an Army camp, I did partake of snake curry with rice and powdered egg bhajji with chapattis. All tasted better than the funnies mentioned earlier.

I am looking forward to the new Kebab corner in Sector 9. Hopefully it will cater to taste buds that have been denied their rightful fare for over two months. 

Think Indian art and you can't miss the miniature tradition known for its finesses, delicacy and beauty. As eminent art historian BN Goswamy, an authority on miniature paintings, says, "It is an art that stands out for delicacy of both execution and sentiments."

Of course, today few possess the ability to capture its timeless essence. Yet the tradition continues, both in its imitative form and in contemporary hues and styles. While in India many artists have taken certain elements from the tradition and incorporated it deftly in their works, in UK the Kaur sisters - Amrit and Rabindra - are doing riveting work. They call themselves past-modern as against post-modern and have used the miniature tradition to express themselves in an innovative way. You bet in alien lands they were dissuaded from falling back to the traditional Indian style but they who were fascinated by the exquisite detail, technical skill and breathtaking level of perfection of this traditional art form have stood their ground, moving on and inspiring others.

Closer home, another Kaur stands inspired and is doing fine work within the framework of miniature tradition. Jasmine Kaur, head of Fine Arts, MCM DAV College, follows the tradition once again employing new themes like Sikh ceremonies. Right now she is working on trees and one particular series' thematic content revolves around dialogue with old masters.

If it was a lecture by Goswamy that triggered her interest in miniature tradition, the strong line work and the rhythmic flow of Pahari School has her completely hooked. Interestingly, though she learnt from SK Sharma of Jaipur she prefers Pahadi School, particularly Basholi style, to the Rajasthani tradition, and peppers her works with lots of yellows and oranges. In fact, her alma mater, Department of Fine Arts, Punjabi University, Patiala, offers a post-graduation specialisation in miniature art. Reveals Ambalicka Jacob, in charge of the department, that the course that started nearly six years ago at the behest of Goswamy, who was a visiting professor to the department at that time, finds many takers. Right now they have 11 students each, both in the first year and second year. So what enthuses modern day artists? Says Tirthankar Bhattacharya, Assistant Professor, Department of Art History and Visual Art Panjab University, Chandigarh, "It's the decorative elements that attract the artists." Rajesh Chadha, Chandigarh-based digital artist who began experimenting with the miniature tradition while studying folk art, has been enraptured by the vibrancy of colours. Goswamy avers that it's not the tradition per se that inspires but the outstanding quality of some paintings that does. He elaborates, "Just because its miniature tradition doesn't bestow greatness upon them."

The most discerning feature of the art according to him is its powerful line work and these were often called coloured drawings. Since the tradition started as the art of book illustration done on palm leaf to begin with, naturally artists devised their own pictorial strategies to express the vastness of their subjects within such a small space.

Fine detailing became another of its high point. According to Bhattacharya, the word miniature itself is self-explanatory that is small size. Interestingly, the same size, feels Jasmine, often becomes its Achilles heel. She shares, "At exhibitions, especially group ones while big canvasses command immediate attention, miniature paintings have to find space and can only be viewed at close proximity." Goswamy in fact goes to the extent of saying that this is an art that has to be viewed almost like a gem at very close quarters. The gem of an art form, however can survive, only if as he puts it, "It stops being imitative."

He adds, "An artist is a creature of his times and unless the artist is one with its subject matter, it would lack conviction." He is not sure whether Kaur sisters' work, which is witty and interesting, has that appeal. Rather he is more impressed by the work being done in Lahore where artists are truly playing with the tradition and experimenting with themes. In India, however, not all is lost. Many are determined to sustain it.

nonikasingh1@rediffmail.com

Stunning pictures mostly in black and white showcasing a dialogue between two stalwart photographers Graciela Iturbide from Mexico and Ragu Rai from India is on exhibit in Delhi.

The joint venture between the governments of India and Mexico commemorates the centennial of the Mexican Revolution and 60 years of diplomatic relations between the two countries. The exhibition An Eye For An Eye is scheduled till October 31 well past the Commonwealth Games that begins here earlier in the same month.

While Raghu Rai is well known for his extensive documentation of India and Indians, Mexican lens woman Graciela Iturbide is equally renowned for her path-breaking work of capturing the indigenous culture and people of Mexico.

"I feel India is fascinating. The last time I was here I had captured the landscape, people and objects... I also travelled to many places in North India," Iturbide said prior to the opening of the exhibition here late last evening.

Iturbide who had taken to photography quite late in her life had previously visited India in 2000 when she says she had hosted an exhibition with Raghu Rai.

She had then visited Kolkata, Mumbai, Delhi and Jaipur among other places and the resulting photographs had been catalogued in exhibition and a picture book was created on India and Mexico in year 2002 in which her work was published along works by Raghu Rai and French photographer Sebastiao Salagado.

"I wanted to be a writer but I married very young and took to photography at a very late stage. I joined a film school and later became the assistant of photographer Manual Alvarez Bravo," Iturbide says with the help of a translator.

Travelling with Bravo, photographing Mexico's indigenous people, says Iturbide gave her a new insight into her own culture and its people.

Working without a script in mind, Iturbide says she clicks everything. "I tend to photograph whatever surprises me. It depends on who is behind the lens, sometimes the product is art and sometimes it isn't." — PTI

With their varied cultural contexts, all Indian performing arts have found acceptance and are popular among art lovers around the world," claims young singer and art promoter Ashu Kumar, who has the distinction of leading NZCC folk artists' contingent to the Global Village in Dubai twice in 2005.

"My perception is based on the fact that while the visitors relished our cultural programmes at the Indian Pavilion daily, most of them were also inquisitive about the music and dance genres, themes as well as content, which I, of course, explained with a sense of satisfaction and pride," he says.

And instead of just sticking to performing arts, he made art promotion his calling. "My passion to make things happen were recognised from the year 2000 onwards, after I associated myself with literary and art promoting forum, Mehak Cultural Forum (MCF) of Patiala, which organises national level symposiums in the region. Stalwarts like Nida Fazli, Waseem Bareilvi, Munnawar Rana, Bashir Badr, Ibrahim Ashq, Jalees Sherwani and others have participated in them," he says.

Inspired by Naresh Raj and musicologist Rajan Narula of MCF, he has actively been involved in this noble cause as its organising secretary. Ashu participated in school-level competitions at the Sheesh Mahal and later at the Mohindera College, Patiala, from where he graduated in 2004. He won medals at zonal and inter-zonal youth festivals in 2002 and 2003. Claiming a close relationship with Bollywood doyen Dharmendra and Guru Haresh Singh, a promoter of India's cultural heritage, Ashu reveres them as his mentors and idols.

The Samvaad Theatre group staged a socially relevant play Netar Daan Jan Kalyan at Sector 17 Plaza on Thursday. The presence of a medical team from the Government Medical College and Hospital-32 and students of the Institute for the Blind who also presented a song lent credence the play.

Written by Poonam Lobana, the poignant play touched upon blindness, causes and cures, besides highlighting the misgivings about eye donation. The play depicts the resolve of an old lady who pledges her eyes much to the anguish of her orthodox son who does not allow the doctors to remove her eyes after her death. Director Mukesh Sharma borrows references from mythology to dispel the misunderstanding about eye donation while exhorting the people to come forward for the noble cause.

As the street theatre genre enters into a direct dialogue with the audience, the emotional response too is spontaneous. Many people, including noted theatre personality Sudesh Sharma, came forward to fill up the forms for pledging their eyes.

Savinder Lucky, Poonam Lobana, Bishwajit, Vineet Kumar, Yashpal, and child artists Karun, Manessh, Vikram, Sukhwinder, Varun, Himanshu, Yaman formed the cast.

A 16th century painting by Italian artist Titian was damaged after water sprinklers were used to put out a fire that broke out near a church in Venice.

The 1544 David and Goliath painting was soaked with water after fire fighters extinguished a blaze Sunday night in a building next to the Santa Maria della Salute church.

The painting depicts David praying next to a decapitated Goliath. It is one of three Titians that line the ceiling of the church. The other two were not damaged.

Though the masterpiece was removed for checking the extent of the water damage, Vittorio Sgarbi, head of Venice's museums, art critic and television celebrity, said preliminary inspection established that the damage was not serious. — IANS