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TIME RUNNING OUT IN TIBET
While China is working overtime to showcase ‘development’ projects in Tibet, the gleaming airport and the impressive railway can scarcely gloss over the frustration at the painfully slow progress of talks between Beijing and the Tibetan Government in Exile. The Dalai Lama’s, ironically, remains the only voice of moderation.
Ashok Tuteja writes from Lhasa
Fireworks on display to launch the Shoton festival against the backdrop of the famous Potala Palace. Tribune Photo: Ashok Tuteja |
Amid
the unending battle of nerves between the Dalai Lama and the Community Party leadership in Beijing, China has been quietly tightening its iron grip on the Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR). And nobody in Lhasa appears to be complaining, at least on record. The massive and envious development of road and rail infrastructure in Tibet will be an eye opener for any Indian, considering that New Delhi is still floundering to execute even its modest plans to upgrade the infrastructure in key borders areas. As Tibet celebrated the week-long Shoton Festival when monks are offered yoghurt by the commoners, the TAR government hosted journalists from India and other countries in Lhasa to enable them to see for themselves the developmental activities taking place in one of the most sparsely-populated and isolated regions in the world. The Chinese government’s infrastructure plans in TAR are obviously aimed at showcasing the ‘real’ Tibet to the outside world and to dispel, what Beijing says, the propaganda by the Dalai Lama ‘clique’ that the Communist leadership pays scant regard to the wishes and aspirations of the people of the region.
Impressive strides
Huge painting of the Buddha being unveiled on the occasion of the annual Shoton (Yoghurt) Festival. Tribune Photo: Ashok Tuteja |
It takes nearly one and a half hour to reach Lhasa’s Gonggar Airport from the Nepalese capital of Kathmandu. But one is in for a surprise as soon as one lands in Lhasa. Though small in size, the airport is equipped with all modern facilities and could put some of the major Indian airports to shame. More surprise s in store when one is driven from the airport to the city. The nearly 90-KM distance is covered just in 50 minutes, thanks to the beautifully laid out roads. But the Chinese authorities completed one of the most significant engineering feats a few years back when they set up the railway network in TAR, often called the roof of the world. For long stretches, the railway operates at altitudes higher than many small planes can fly at. The line boasts high-tech engineering to stabilise tracks over permafrost and oxygen is pumped into cabins to help passengers cope with the high altitude. China claims the railway line is bringing major opportunities to a poor region but critics say it is being used by China to assert its control over the border region and destroy the very fabric of the Tibetan identity. Their contention in fact is that all the projects being undertaken in TAR are part of China’s aggressive campaign to assimilate Tibet, under the control of China since 1951 when it suppressed an uprising during which the Dalai Lama escaped to India and set up his abode in Dharamshala. Although denied by Beijing, China is also said to be using the massive settlement of Han Chinese, China’s majority ethnic community, against dissent and separatism to strengthen its hold on the mountainous region. The one thing that appears to concern the authorities in China more than anything is the break-up of China, regardless of whether it is Tibet or Xinjiang, the Muslim region in China’s far west, which recently witnessed violence for which Beijing blamed Pakistan-based terrorists. The government is also nervous of any religious groups that challenge its authority, especially those that inspire a fervour greater than they can command. Both of these sensitive issues are combined in the question of Tibetan independence and the Chinese government is keen that neither gathers any momentum. For the outside world, it is either the media or the Tibetans in exile who can provide information about Tibet. While the information given by those in exile is invariably coloured, it is very hard for journalists to get accurate information as they are hardly ever allowed free access to the region. Organised tours by journalists are always monitored very closely and the recent trip by Indian and journalists from some other nations was no exception. The lack of knowledge of English among Tibetans also proves to be another handicap.
Economic benefits
Typical Tibetan houses in Lhasa |
The Tibetan government in exile favours autonomy rather than full independence, but the level of that autonomy has created big splits within the exiled community. The Tibetans within China, either within Tibet itself or in the Tibetan population that covers Western China, are often reluctant to openly criticise the Chinese authorities but frequently infer that they are unhappy about certain aspects of government policy. Nonetheless, many also acknowledge the economic benefits of recent years, as the Dalai Lama himself did in a recent speech on the occasion of the 52nd anniversary of the ‘Tibetan National Uprising Day’. ”China, with the world’s largest population, is an emerging world power and I admire the economic development it has made. It also has a huge potential to contribute to human progress and world peace. But to do that, China must earn the international community’s respect and trust. In order to earn such respect, China’s leaders must develop greater transparency, their actions corresponding to their world,’’ he said in his speech on March 10. The Chinese government argues that the Chinese rule has lifted Tibet from a period of feudal oppression, created economic opportunities, led to the development of Tibet’s infrastructure and instilled a level of ‘civilisation’ among the Tibetans. But critics counter the argument, saying that the economic benefits have been offered only to a minority, while the infrastructure developments are an attempt to better control and manipulate Tibet while slowly diluting Tibetan culture with an influx of Han Chinese migrants. The truth probably lies somewhere between the two arguments. Tibetans privately regret the slow degradation of a culture and tradition they clearly hold dear, yet many also want to benefit from the same economic opportunities as are available in the rest of the country. Many see economic frustrations at the root of the 2008 riots in the region. Lhasa has developed like many cities in China in recent years, especially since the railway link started to bring more than a million visitors a year to Tibet. But along with the tourists have come streetwise Han Chinese businessmen who seem to have benefited at the cost of the locals. Chinese officials are quick to describe how much the Tibetan economy has improved with recent economic policy. They cite annual double digit growth rate in the past few years. They also proudly talk about billions of dollars spent since 1980 to maintain 1,400 monasteries and cultural relics. ‘’Everything is being done for the development of Tibet and to protect the Tibetan cultural values,’’ according to Xie Ying, Deputy Director at the Information Office of TAR.
Dalai Lama still the best betWhile the Chinese and representatives of the Dalai Lama have met on many occasions, they have hardly made any progress in resolving their differences. The March 2008 rioting and the continued stalling of movement in negotiations is just the latest chapter of the conflict where mutual distrust on both sides continues to hinder a solution. The future of the debate seems to be more rhetorical as Tibetan leaders gear up for a more hardline stance that will only be matched by their counterparts in Beijing. China believes the Dalai Lama and his followers draw sustenance from the West. Therefore, every time, the spiritual head of the Tibetans meets a key Western leader, alarm bells start ringing in Beijing. The same thing happened in mid-July when US President Barack Obama met the Dalai Lama, prompting a strong protest by Beijing to Washington. The source of Tibetan frustration largely stems from the fact that while Tibet’s standard of living has improved, most of the benefits have gone to the ethnic Han Chinese who have migrated into Tibet. Moreover, Han immigration — encouraged by the Chinese government through tax incentives — is also, according to the Tibetans in exile, undermining Tibet’s political, religious, and cultural freedom. Though the Chinese government does not trust him, the Dalai Lama certainly is central to any peace building process in Tibet. This is because he may perhaps be the only actor who can simultaneously reassure and moderate hard-liners both in the Chinese government and in Tibet’s exile community. Only when the Chinese government sees the Dalai Lama making efforts to moderate the views of Tibetans, is it likely be more receptive to the idea of negotiations on issues such as governance reforms in Tibet. Nevertheless, it may be difficult for either side to take the initial steps necessary to move the process forward. The billion dollar question is whether any other country can play the role of a mediator between the Chinese leadership and the Dalai Lama and whether such a proposal would ever be acceptable to Beijing. In the meantime, the Tibetans can continue with their passion for Hindi movies, which are very popular in
Lhasa. Youngsters can be seen dancing to the tunes of Hindi songs at pubs and functions, though they do not understand the language. Shahrukh Khan and Aamir Khan are popular among the Hindi film heroes while Aishwarya Rai Bachchan and Kajol are household names in Lhasa among the Indian heroines. |