Jodhpur is known as the sentinel of the desert as it lies in the middle of the rocky and thorny Marwar region, the ‘Country of the Dead’, west of the fertile Mewar, writes Rajnish Wattas


City of forts, fortitude and palaces

CONTINUING my travels on the ancient silk route, as it passes through Rajasthan, Jodhpur was the second destination after Jaisalmer. And it comes across as a pleasant return to civilisation after the remote sand dunes of the desert town.

As you approach the city, the imposing citadel of Mehrangarh Fort looms large over its skyline. Standing majestically atop a rugged hilltop, it’s like a valiant sentinel guarding the city below, and thereby hang tall tales of valour, grit and sacrifice that gave birth to the city.

After the overnight train journey from Jaisalmer — with sand still pouring out from our ears, eyes and shoes — it was imperative to have a hot water bath, which the comfortable Rajasthan Tourism bungalow amply provided us. The invigorating bath came as a tonic of energy — and off we were for our excursions of the historic city of architectural marvels.

Jodhpur is known as the sentinel of the desert as it lies in the middle of the rocky and thorny Marwar region, the ‘Country of the Dead’, west of the fertile Mewar. "Nature here demands a race of hardy men and yields her favours only to the heroic. Such indeed were the Rathore Rajputs, descendants of the great royal houses, who emigrated westwards when the Muslim invasions over-ran northern India in the 12th century."

To resist the repeated attacks of the invaders, fortresses and citadels were built at strategic points atop rocky escarpments and mountains all over Rajasthan at Jodhpur, Bikaner, Jhalore, Merta, Nagaur, Pokhran, Kishengarh and many other places.

Jodhpur, once the capital of the former princely state of Marwar, is now the second largest city of Rajasthan.

Flanked on its western side by Mehrangarh Fort and on the eastern side by the stately sandstone palace of Umaid Bhawan, the monuments, temples and gardens of Jodhpur present a multi-faceted grandeur. Legend has it that the city was founded in 1459 AD by Suryavanshi Rao Jodha, descendant of Lord Rama. It gradually grew around the towering Mehrangarh Fort built as a stronghold on the advice of a sage. Along with Bikaner and Jaisalmer, Jodhpur, too, situated on the ancient silk route that linked Central Asia and northern India with the seaports of Gujarat, became a major trading centre in the 16th century. Reminiscent of the bygone years is the fact that Jodhpur is still the leading trade centre for cattle, camels, wood, salt and agricultural crops.

The aesthetic imagination that has gone onto the making of this monumental city stands testimony to the creative genius of its people, incongruent with the harshness of the land and its climate.

Naturally our first excursion was to the most conspicuous landmark of the city — Mehrangarh Fort — the very raison d’etre of its existence. Its foundations were laid in 1459. "Perched high like an eyrie on its rocky outcrop, its eastern towers and bastions stand out like tough sinews, where the rock itself was hewn to form the walls and ramparts. From these the view commands the horizon on all sides. From Man Mahal one can see the towers of Khumbhalgarh," writes Virginia Fass evocatively.

One climbs up steeply from the south, roughly parallel to the western side, then rounds the northern tip to go back along the eastern flank. The fort is guarded by seven gates, of which the fourth has been destroyed. The first gate, Fateh Pol, between twin bastions, has a curve. The gateway is supported on stoned corbels in the manner of Hindu architecture, but the second, third and fifth gates have elegant Islamic arches. The sixth gate, Loha Pol, controls the final turn round the northern end, and the seventh, Suraj Pol, leads sideways from the eastern passage into the durbar court.

Interestingly, a modern lift has also been provided for those finding the climb arduous — and this comes both as a relief and a surprise in the ancient surroundings of the fort!

This impregnable hilltop fort is considered among the best in India with exquisitely latticed windows in residential apartments within. "Intricately carved panels and porches, elaborately adorned windows and walls of Moti Mahal, Pjool Mahal, Sheesh Mahal, Sileh Khana and Daulat Khana, seem to make the medieval splendour come alive." A collection of musical instruments, palanquins, royal costumes, furniture and turbans is displayed. But I found the ancient cannons kept on the fort’s ramparts to be its real "big guns". However, the piece de resistance of the fort is its museum, whose scholarly curator we were lucky to run into. He was kind enough to take us around the museum personally and explain its historic antiquities.

From the ramparts of the citadel there is a grand view over the city and the surrounding countryside. Below the fortress the old city of Jodhpur is surrounded by a fortified wall 10 km in circumference with seven gates. Some of the old houses have richly carved facades and are painted in blue colour. Curious to know about this interesting architectural colour coding, I asked a local person about it. Though not really sure about its veracity, he informed that it symbolised Brahmin homes.

Close to the fort complex lies the 19th century royal cenotaph, Jaswant Thada, built in white marble. Rare portraits of Jodhpur’s rulers are displayed here. Located on rugged hillocks on the bank of a stream, its ethereal architecture — often reflected in water — provides an aesthetic counter point to the rough texture of the fort. Our next destination was the Umaid Bhavan Palace, the magnificence of which had been once even covered by the National Geographic Magazine. Moreover, since I have had the rare privilege of meeting the present Maharaja of Jodhpur, Gaj Singh — an active member of INTACH and champion of protecting the city’s rich architectural heritage — personally, the keenness was more. It’s the only palace built in the 20th century as a famine relief project which gave employment to the people for 16 years. The British architects of the palace were same as those who built the Rashtrapati Bhavan complex in New Delhi. Its lush green lawns with sandstone pavements and bouquets of bougainvillaea bushes are a soothing sight. The palace now runs as a hotel, though part of it is retained as museum and part as royal residence.

Walking through forts, palaces and cenotaphs for most of the day, we longed for some rest and cool greenery, and what better place to visit than the city’s famous Mandore Gardens! This former capital of Marwar, north of Jodhpur, is worth seeing for its old cenotaphs and caves in the crags, which once sheltered ascetics. The exquisite landscaped gardens come alive with peacocks and monkeys and the sprawling greenery — the sacred peepal, banyan, bottle-brush, pomegranate and palm trees and the bubbling fountains. Set against a rocky wall is a pillared compound, the ‘Hall of Heroes’ and ‘Shrine’ of the 330 million gods.

By now it was almost sunset, and we decided to wind up our visit to the city at the closeby Balsamand lake and palace, now run as a resort. Aesthetically converted into a heritage hotel amidst a verdant public park and bird sanctuary, it is a picturesque artificial lake with a summer palace on its banks. We ordered a sumptuous dinner, and were fussed over by a battery of bearers attired in traditional Rajasthani turbans, answering every call with jee hukum. As the royal feast was laid, a flock of dancing peacocks joined us preening their magnificent feathers.

For some fleeting moments, at least, we were transported to the royal glory of the medieval maharajas of Rajasthan. Perhaps it can happen only on a journey through Jodhpur — the memorable land of Marwar.