119 years of Trust THE TRIBUNE

Sunday, November 28, 1999
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On top of the world...looking down
on creation

Tourism
By Suparna Saraswati Puri

"IT is not beautiful it is wonderful." "It is wild, do not try to tame it". Centuries ago, it was an important halt on the old caravan silk route from China, and today it has improved its status, even more by providing one of India’s significant and highly strategic defense base within its geographical limitations. It also claims to be a popular tourist destination for visitors from around the world. In case, a detached soul intends wandering into the realms of spiritual elevation, well what better place than this, Leh, the crowning glory of the Ladakh range of mountains? For urban tourists, getting away from the technologically advanced, planned environment, is by itself an indulgence. Combine this with the treat of holidaying in the midst of the Far Pavilions in tiny valley, 10 km. north-east of the great river Indus.

A Leh-Srinagar road view of the IndusIt would be a demeaning exercise to articulate the amazing effect that Leh has by using cliches.

It is, undoubtedly, an ethereal experience that can only be sensed. The very fact of being in Leh and living every moment within its virgin environment, desensitizes you towards the materialistically oriented life that most of us now live in.

A viewer’s delight in appreciating Leh lies in the transformation that occurs within its natural features (mountain, river and desert) not only during daytime but after nightfall too. At the crack of dawn, the gigantic mountains with their snow clad peaks, wear a bareall look displaying the dull browns and subdued grays of their undulating terrain.

As the day progresses, sunlight and the shadows of these mountains play a sort of hide-and-seek that transforms the entire landscape. Once again, the colours displayed by these rugged features are totally different from the ones they possess in the morning. Towards the evening, a sombreness falls upon them with a glimpse of the fading lighting descending on the tips of the huge structures.

It is this completely mesmerizing change that is startling. To think that these mammoth triangles drawn in dark brown on a piece of paper during our childhood days, by one and all, can be so out of this world, is hard to believe. Nevertheless, it is so and there is sufficient "microscopic" (in terms of photographs" evidence to prove it too!

The Ladakh range of mountainsWith a population density of three persons per square km. Leh provides patches of golden yellow and green wherever there is a settlement. The residential area is marked by mud houses which are neat little squares with hemmed roof tops. There is, in terms of design and pattern, a certain amount of uniformity visible in the entire region of Leh when it comes to the style of constructing houses and buildings.

The monotony of the desert, is often broken by chortens (stupas) that normally introduce a Gompa (Buddhist monastery) which dot the entire region of Leh-Ladakh.

The serenity and calmness that envelop Leh are its most alluring aspects. The interior of the region provides the kind of mental solace that at times is sought by the human psyche. Those of us who are fortunate enough to avail the limited opportunities that life has to offer, feel blessed to be at a place that breathes peace and tranquility.

The vegetation seen in Leh is a recent phenomenon. Interestingly, the area experienced rainfall this year in the month of August-September, after almost two decades! The otherwise perennial growth of wild flower plants, mirages the land at the foothills into a mauve/lilac coloured soil. The metallic road in Leh, as viewed from a distance, appears like a long snake that curvaceously slides in and out of the ranges.

The historic river Indus also changes its form while flowing through Leh. Within its maze of villages and towns, it branches itself into rivulets that run like tiny veins of the topographic body of Leh. The water of river Indus is icecold and has a surprisingly sweet taste to it.

While viewing this tremendous water system, one cannot help imagining the ancient Indian civilization that arose at its bank, and gave us our national identity. Just admiring it in all its magnitude offers one an opportunity to experience a moment of pride and historicity that is inexplicable.

It would suffice to say that Leh offers altogether another kind of world which is unparalleled in its natural beauty and charm. Therefore, in order to belong to such a paradise, one needs to suitably adapt both mentally and physically to enjoy the fruits of this heavenly abode.Back


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