The beauty of Barcelona

Nestling between the sea and mountains, Barcelona is one of the most attractive and cosmopolitan of Mediterranean cities. No wonder it was awarded the 1992 Summer Olympics, observes Mohinder Singh

NESTLING between the sea and mountains, Barcelona is one of the most attractive and cosmopolitan of Mediterranean cities. No wonder it was awarded the 1992 Summer Olympics. And UNESCO has chosen it for holding the Universal Forum of Cultures in the year 2004.

This open, diverse city with a metropolitan population of 4.2 million boasts of an exceptionally equable climate (average temperature 16 degrees Celsius). Over 3 million tourists came here in 1997, many of them youngsters and backpackers.

Indeed, Barcelona has much to offer its visitors: from the natural setting of Colleserola Park to the city’s 5-km long beaches, and from noted cathedrals such as the beautiful Gothic basilica of Santa Maria del Mar to 50 different museums such as the Picasso Museum.

Evidently the most endearing feature of the city are its tree-lined walkways and some 160 parks. This makes it a wonderful place for strolling along the streets and squares. For example, the whole 2-km stretch of La Rambla is a broad pedestrian street, the walking surface nicely smooth and shaded with trees. All its length is dotted with open-air restaurants and benches. Barcelona is a city where strolling while shopping, or shopping while strolling, is an unforgettable experience. (One wished Delhi made a serious beginning with walking streets).

The older part of the city with its narrow winding lanes and quaint small squares is another area ideal for strolling, specially shopping, sight-seeing, and good dining. The jumbled urban fabric gives it the special charm that captivates people from far and near. Contrary to common impression, the motorised traffic seemed quite orderly and pedestrian-friendly.

The city has some great square, such as the Spanish Squares and the Catalunya Square. The latter, bounded by impressive buildings, sports two huge lighted fountains and a large circular marble platform. You see thousands gathered there in the evening. People sit for hours savouring the spectacle.

Barcelona seafront had grown somewhat derelict with heavy industries, abandoned sidings and neglected wharves. There were hardly any recreational spots. But then a massive programme of seafront renewal was taken up for the Olympics.

A new Olympic town was created with its modern harbour, seafront plazas, shopping malls, luxury flats, hotels and offices, besides extensive sports facilities. After the games were over, most of these were sold out to private parties. Now the area is host to top-rung businesses. And the Olympic Village is one of the most attractive residential areas of the city. The complex stands well connected to downtown through Metro and multilane avenues.

Similarly the prominent half-a-dozen beaches have been endowed with modern amenities and facilities of all types. These now allow enjoyment of water sports all year round. We had occasion of spending a few hours on the popular beach along the Olympic Village. A clean beach with no rubbish in water or on the sand, public showers for bathing; and a lifeguard in attendance. Of course like other Mediterranean beaches, this had the same style of topless swimming and sunbathing.

One dominating feature of Barcelona is the Montjuic hill. Once home to a fortress, it has formed part of all the outstanding events that have marked the life of this 2000-year-old settlement.

Montjuic is now the city’s foremost recreational, cultural and sporting area. The forested hill hosts a stadium (specially expanded and renovated for the Olympics), palaces, museums, an amusement park, and fountains. From the hilltop you enjoy a grand sight of the town below.

An aerial cableway, running across the city, connects Montjuic hill to the port. A ride in these cable cars provides a superb panoramic view of the whole city.

Near the foot of the hill is the Spanish Town, a collection of representative buildings from various parts of the country. You have crafts and foods of various regions. No wonder the place is a star tourist attraction.

Barcelona has over a thousand major restaurants, offering an enticing range of cuisine. Spaniards eat a light breakfast of coffee and bread but go for a full lunch, the main meal of the day. Your best bet, especially on a tight budget, is to order "the meal of the day" at lunch. For 1000 to 1100 pesetas (around US $ 8) you get a drink, a big plate of salad or soup, the main dish of meat or fish with vegetables, and dessert, all served course by course sitting in a regular restaurant — almost works out cheaper than a comparative meal in India. Food is commonly tasty and wholesome, and wine of acceptable quality. Ordering separately by dishes can cost much more.

In the evening you could do with snacks, called tapas. You get excellent Spanish omelette, smoked fish, or sandwiches. There are some special streets such as Passeig de Gracia which are deemed a paradise of these little titbits. The freshness and variety of fish in Barcelona comes as a delightful surprise.

The city again has excellent public transport in the shape of metro and buses. Taxis are plentiful and not too expensive.

Hotel accommodation could, however, present some problems. Notwithstanding numerous hotels built anew or renovated for the Olympics, the demand seems to outstrip the supply. We had tried six 3-star hotels mentioned in our guidebook but none had any vacancy to offer. And hotel rates are significantly higher than those prevailing in Madrid.

Pickpockets operate in every city in the world. But we had the actual experience of one in Barcelona. As I was stepping into the metro at the Olympic Village, a swift powerful hand pounced into my front jeans pocket and then withdrew hastily. The rogue had evidently mistaken the bulging handkerchief for a well-filled purse. In fact as a measure of precaution I carry no purse on metro and buses; the local currency is sequestered into various pockets.

With the fabled Spanish siesta (shops are open from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4.30 p.m. to 8.30 p.m.), it’s in the evenings that the street scene livens up. You see people walking around, drinking and eating, or otherwise moving about till the late hours of the night. Your best bet to savour the life of beautiful Barcelona is to be up and active during those hours.