Hungary: The unknown paradise
By Vinay Kumar Malhotra

WHILE planning a trip to Europe, we usually think of Austria, England, France, Germany, Switzerland etc. But there is another very beautiful but less known and less visited country, and that is Hungary. Till 1988-89, it was a part of the Communist Bloc countries and so, behind the iron curtain. Perhaps that is the reason that a few tourists from western and Asian countries paid visit to this country. Hungarians are freedom-loving people. Even during the hey days of Communism, Hungary was the only East European country that mustered courage to rise in revolt against the totalitarian Soviet hegemony in 1956. Though Soviet armed intervention crushed that revolution, Hungary enjoyed a measure of freedom not enjoyed by other countries of the Communist Bloc.

Heroes’ square and Fine Arts Museum, Budapest

Since 1988, Hungary is undergoing a process of change. Now it is a plural, multiparty, parliamentary democratic country. Together with the transition of the political system the institutional framework of a market economy is fast building up and modernising the economy. Economically, it is the most advanced country among the erstwhile Communist countries.

As compared to India it is a very small country with 93,000 sq km of area and 10.3 million population but it attracts 10 times more tourists than India. The reason is that it has all those things that a tourist craves for, e.g. old but well laid-out cities, historic buildings, architectural monuments, river sides, lakes, greenery, parks, fine hotels and restaurants, scenic beauty, museums, grand churches, music, opera, games, sports, water games, equestrian and hunting games, discotheques, spas and Turkish baths, exotic food, delicious wine, night clubs, casinos and friendly beautiful women and girls with blue eyes and golden hair. Moreover, it is cheaper than many other countries of Europe. Public and local transport system is very efficient and reasonably priced. Even a middle-class tourist can visit all the important places and towns within his budget.

Recently, I visited this country under an Indo-Hungarian cultural exchange programme of the University Grants Commission. A five-month-long study-cum-lecture trip enabled me to look at every nook and corner of Hungary very minutely. Though I was based in the capital city of Budapest, I visited all other important cities and tourist places.

With the Danube as its pulse, Budapest beats to a rhythm of indomitable spirit cloaked in beauty and charm. On the one side of the Danube is Buda, and on the other Pest. The former is hilly and the latter a plain. Thus it is a twin city that offers the most spectacular panoramic view in all Europe. London,Paris, Moscow, Vienna etc are all settled on the banks of rivers. But these are of no match to the panoramic view of Budapest. From the Buda side of the river, on Castle Hill, the spires of Parliament and the Chain Bridge can be seen in golden light every evening. Their reflection on the Danube, combined with the dotted lights of Pest, are simply fascinating.

Vignettes of Pecs city

So are the buildings of Castle Hill: the neo-Gothic Matthias Church, surrounded by quaintly restored medieval homes on cobblestone streets; the imposing Royal Palace, which houses the National Gallery and its precious works of art; and the turreted Fishermen’s Bastion that rounds it all off. A citadel with a liberty statue is on the top of another hill on the Buda side overlooking the twin cities.

The huge and imposing Parliament building on the Pest side of the Danube is an architectural marvel. No one can ignore its presence.According to some, Parliament-like the buildings in St Mark’s Square in Venice — was at its best when seen in the water. Perhaps this was why Jozsef Keszler, one of the most prominent Hungarian critics of time, wrote in 1902 , "If it were up to me, every ship sailing past the Danube would be ordered to stop for two minutes opposite the Parliament building, so that those on board might have the chance to observe, admire and enjoy the most magnificent building in the country." I did the same as desired by Keszler and took shots of the Parliament building from the ship in Danube. The massive building is 265 metres long (London Parliament measures 270 metres), 123 metres wide and covers an area of 17,745 square metres. The dome is 96-metre high and the two towers stand at 72.6 metres. The first square of turf was built on October 12, 1885, and 17 years later, on October 8, 1902, the House of Representatives held its first session in the building. In keeping with the parliamentary system of the day two chambers — the upper and lower houses — were built, and were democratically made of the same height (17 metres) and area (520 square metres ). The Parliament building contained a number of technological innovations, including the first Hungarian Central heating system and an ice-based cooling system. Eightyeight statues by 23 artists decorate the exterior of the building. I also got the privilege to watch the proceedings of the Hungarian Parliament in session. The same are conducted in a very peaceful, disciplined and democratic manner.

On the Pest side the glittering Vaci street is the most favourable walking and shopping street of the tourists. Office buildings, shopping malls and supermarkets are set in perfect harmony with the elegant St Stephens’ Basilica, as well as the sprawling Heroe’s Square, bordered by the neo-classical Museum of Fine Arts. Perhaps the ultimate haven is Margaret Island, a sanctuary of forest, flower beds, manicured lawns and sports facilities in the middle of the Danube. Budapest by night is a feast of illuminations and glamour worth seeing. The opera’, concerts at the Vigado, theatre, casinos and night clubs offer endless possibilities of entertainment.

Seven bridges on the Danube join Buda with Pest. The Szechenyi bridge is the oldest and the Erzsebet bridge is the latest in the series. No two bridges are alike in design and pattern. Each has its own individual characteristics. Their upkeep is a regular feature round the year. No laxity is in evidence in their repair and painting. All this adds to the beauty of the capital city. No wonder UNESCO has declared Budapest as "World Heritage City."

Hungary in general and Budapest in particular are known for Turkish baths. Every tourist likes to spend a part of his/her time at the soothing thermal spring baths. It was the Turkish occupation in 16th and 17th centuries that the bath culture took roots in Hungary.Some of these spas are in operation till today. The Kirlly, the Rudas and the Racz are the finest examples. But there is an array of baths from more recent Hungarian times, such as the wonderful Art Nouveau Gellert Baths at the luxurious Gellert Hotel and the lavish Szechenvi baths in the City Park. There are also plenty of thermal hot springs and wells throughout Hungary whose medicinal properties are well known all over the world.

No less significant are the historical and worth seeing places outside Budapest. Just half an hour journey north of Budapest is a special sport where the Danube changes course, known as Danube Bend.Situated here is the lovely town of Szentendre, impeccably preserved in vivid Baroque architecture and colours. The town is so much a visual delight, that may painters, sculptors and writers have chosen to make it their permanent abode. Further upstream is contrasting Visegrad.

Balaton is the largest fresh water lake in Central Europe and Hungary’s favourite resort. Extending nearby 80 km across the west of the country, its average depth is under 10 feet. It is one-hand-a-half hour drive from Budapest. It possesses all the characteristics of a pure enjoyment vacation. The lake is also known as "the Sweet Sea" or "the Hungarian Sea".So naturally, Balaton is most sought for water sports like swimming, sailing, windsurfing and water skiing. Then there is fishing, tennis, biking, horseback riding. There is even skating, ice-fishing and ice-sailing in winter. Balaton lake is made for the intimate union of man and nature. Lake Balaton, nearby towns abound in thermal springs as well, which means several therapeutic spas add to the lake’s charm. Balatonfured is a renowned medicinal town with its mineral waters abounding in carbon dioxide that drew patients for remedy. There is a world famous heart hospital within the park enclosing the spring.Without visiting Balatonfured, the visit to Hungary is incomplete. Rabindra Nath Tagore went there for treatment and stayed there for a long time. There is a park named after him and his statue adores it. Prime Minister Rajiv Gandhi visited this park in 1988 and paid his tribute.

It had the privilege of visiting other major cities of Hungary such as Debrecen in the East,Pacs in the southwest, Eger in the north and Gyor in the west. Every city is elegant and has its own charm and uniqueness. Many Indian students go to Debrecen to study medical sciences.Eger city is famous for Dobo square, castle, minaret, wine cellers and for "valley of beautiful women".

I had gone to Hungary on an academic mission.I would like to refer to a few things about its higher education. Hungary has a good number of universities and their educational standard is far superior to universities in other Central and East European countries. Many foreign students, including Indians, come there for higher education as tuition fees is lower as compared to western countries. Instead of paying capitation fee to substandard Indian institutes and colleges, many students consider it better to study in Hungary. A number of universities in and outside Budapest were visited by me include Budapest University of Economic Sciences, Lorand Eotvos University, Ceneral European University (Budapest), Kossuth Lajos University (Debrecen), Janus Pannonious University (Pecs) and Peter Pazmany Catholic University (Piliscsaba). All the universities are housed in palatial buildings and are well-maintained.

Being a political scientist, the main purpose of my visit was to observe and study the third democratic parliamentary election to Hungarian Parliament that were held in May 1998. I would like to make a few comments on this election and Hungarian political system. The Hungarian pluralist, parliamentary, democratic system emerged very fast following the political transformations in 1989. What developed in western countries over 100 of years happened within a few months in Hungary. Six parties eventually got seats in Parliament from nearby 60 runners, and despite the mergers and splits, the same political forces and same number of political parties represent Hungarian people in Parliament now.

Hungary is the only post-Communist country where governments have not collapsed despite the fact that those were coalition governments. Usually coalition governments elsewhere and in India do not complete full tenure. Both the Conservative coalition (1990-94) led by the Hungarian Democratic Forum and the social-liberal coalition (1994-98) led by the Hungarian Socialist Party completed their full terms.

In the end I would like to suggest if you are planning to go to Europe, make it a point to visit the beautiful and charming Hungary.

This feature was published on January 3, 1999.