A miraculous temple at Deshnok

Faith pervades the spirit of common people and they never give up believing, respecting and trusting. As a matter of fact, faith has inspired many emperors and kings who were instrumental in the creation of these magnificent temples. H.C. Gera describes one such temple.

TEMPLES are symbols of India’s traditional worship procedures. Embedded in these holy places are intellect, wisdom and knowledge. Threads of culture and heritage are woven in these procedures through which one gains the experience of devotion and sense of contentment.

History has traversed through these places and left its signatures in the form of finest of architectures, literature, painting and music.

According to Walt Whitman, faith is the antiseptic of soul. It pervades the spirit of common people and they never give up believing, respecting and trusting. As a matter of fact, faith has inspired many emperors and kings who have been instrumental in the creation of these magnificent temples.

Numerous temples spread over Rajasthan, Sindh and Malwa have been dedicated to Mata Karniji. The premier temple is the one at Deshnok, where Karniji is enshrined and worshipped.

Deshnok is about 30 km south of Bikaner in the western part of Rajasthan. This town is connected by rail and road. The foundation of this place was laid on 2nd of Samvat 1476. Rao Ridmal a great warrior suggested the name of place as Desh Haot which means "Shiled of Land". It was hoped that true to this name, it would protect his kingdom. However, Rao Ridmal was advised that true Rajputs should always protect their masters for the survival of their kingdom. The place, therefore, should be called Deshnak (nose of the land).

Time passed by and Deshnak became Deshnok. This is the most important centre of pilgrimage for shakti worship of Rajasthan. This temple at Deshnok is popularly known as Mata Karniji Temple.

Unfortunately, this temple has been called as "Rat Temple". The misnomer of the temple hurt the feelings of devotees and the residents of Deshnok in particular who do not take exception to the sheltering of rats.

Civilisation and culture have always established harmony with the help of religious sanction. But culture itself is a complex subject. It is multi-levelled and many tiered in the contemporary context. Sometimes it keeps a balance between myth and reality. The culture at large reflects the beliefs of the community. As at the temple at Deshnok, beliefs are interrelated with the procedures of worship.

The devotees of Goddess Karniji, while worshipping the deity never forget to take care of the rats that are sheltered in thousands at this temple. They call them Kabas and consider them as offsprings of the goddess. The temple is unique on many accounts. Peculiar types of rats live here. Their behaviour and feeding habits are quite interesting. The rats (kabas) are fed on laddoos, puris and milk.

A devotee informed me that during worship the rats are fed in large silver trays. Despite this kind of exclusive diet, they never gain weight and always remain of uniform size. The temple is famous more for its inhabitants than for the presiding deity.

Coming to the behaviour of these rats, I was informed by the priest that the rats are racial too. They do not allow entry of any "foreign" rat within the temple. The kabas living in the temple cannot bear sight of an intruder who is chased out of temple by the local inhabitants. The rats by any means are quite contented with their way of life.

The main entrance is infact a beautiful piece of architecture. The carving is tasteful and ingenuous. The qualified craftsmen have chosen white marble on the entrance gate. Intricate patterns with white marble clearly exhibit the fine workmanship.

Amazingly one row of kabas (rats) running from base of entrance across the entire structure can be seen on the main entrance gate. They are shown in uniform size except on the upper portion where rats bigger in size have been shown with downward faces. The master craftsmen have woven the artistically intricate pattern in such a manner that a closer look is required to recognise the kabas (rats) in white marble. Architecturally, the entrance is nicely proportioned as befits the dignity of the holy shrine.

As you enter inside from the main gate there is an open space. The floor is made up of bricks except the area near to the sanctum sanctorum which is made up of white grey marble. The floor is oily at some places. Small pieces of sweetmeats, rice and prasad is seen scattered at several places. Large number of rats scuttle in groups and devour food on the floor.

On the right corner three pots full of water are kept. The rats take water from these pots. The leftover water is considered as holy water and is used like Charanamrit by the devotees. The rats jump and play hide-and-seek. They move freely in groups. If you have something to offer (grain or sweetmeats) these pious creatures shall flock around you.

They are disciplined. If you show love and affection they will respond quickly and won’t hesitate climbing on you. I was told that no case of rat bite has ever occurred in this holy place. A look toward the sky shall reveal that there is coverage of metallic net in the entire compound for the protection of rats from kites and vultures.

Surprisingly, when Surat was totally shaken with plague and thousands left the place in panic, not even a single case of plague was reported at Deshnok, despite the presence of a large number of rats. This has also baffled scientists. The general experience has led the residents to believe that this miracle is due to divine blessing of the goddess.

In the main temple a pratima carved by a blind person has been installed. The premier idol of Mata Karniji is about two feet in height. The base has been raised 5-7 cm above ground-level. The face is elongated and is adorned by a crown on the head and kundals can also be seen in the ears. There is a trident in the right hand whereas the demon’s cut head is in the left hand. There are seven small statues on the left and right sides of the pratima. These statues represent seven sisters of Mata Karniji. The roof where this pratima is installed appears to be an uncemented structure, made up of logs of jal wood.

Interestingly, no mortar has been used and the spaces between the stones and logs provide sanctuary to these kabas. The lofty gate and high parapet wall give the entire structure like a shape of a fort. Miraculous legends surround this temple. Sight of a white rat is considered a good omen and gesture of divine pleasure.

Stimulating amidst serenity

By Payal Chaudhry

SET on the shore of pristine Lake Chautauqua in western New York State, the Chautauqua Institution contains hundreds of prime Victorian period buildings.The area is a National Historical District. The institution itself is a centre for the arts, education, religion and recreation. More than three lakh people annually attend programmes during a two-month summer season held at the centre.

Attracting the most talented individuals in a multitude of disciplines, Chautauqua offers a unique insight into the character of American culture. It arose out of the best impulses of idealism which emerged in the post-Civil War American Renaissance. Founded in 1874 as a summer meeting ground for Sunday School teachers, the institution grew by leaps and bounds.

Co-founders Lewis Miller and John H. Vincent were inspired leaders who forged a movement which became a powerful force in promoting popular education in late 19th and early 20th century America. When President Theodore Roosevelt spoke at Chautauqua in 1905 and called it "typical America at its best."

Chautauqua continues to offer an atmosphere of enlightened tranquillity in which the most significant issues of today are considered. This, combined with the magical setting filled with exuberant Victorian architecture, towering trees, flowering bushes and sapphire lake, sets the stage for the Chautauqua experience.

My introduction to the Chautauqua experience came during a recent visit in June, this year, a week before the start of the two-month programme. As I conversed with the few people on the grounds and became aware of the energy in the air. I asked the rhetorical question, "Why are these people so friendly?" Part of the answer must lie in the spiritual foundations of Chautauqua, which was a humanistic affirmation of faith in the perfecting human capacities through education.

In August, when I returned to experience the final week of the season, the lectures of that week comprised the Chautauqua International Conference on the Environment. Morning and afternoon lectures, special classes, and evening concepts kept the energy humming for the inmates. Curious as I was to know about the different aspects of living in Chautauqua, I stayed back in one of the cottages, especially built for the course-mates.

For the enthusiast of Victorian period architecture, treasures abound in the lanes of The Chautauqua Institution, adorned by aesthetically designed cottages. The earliest cottages were erected in the 1870s on small lots leased from the administration. In the Great Depression, cottage owners were allowed to purchase deeds of ownership to their lots, raising funds to keep the institution going.

Chautauqua’s growth coincided with a construction boom, and fine examples of all styles of Victorian architecture may be found on the grounds. Local craftsmen and carpenters drew on pattern books and incorporated local variations.

Chautauqua cottages have front porches where Chautauquans relax informally. Sprays of gladioli in vases are a welcoming tradition, during the season they are displayed along with the Stars and Stripes" and comfortable rockers.

Old Chautauqua families can go back several generations. Each summer for over a hundred years, these families have returned to savour the charms of the lakeside resort; some have retained their family cottages.

It is possible for visitors to experience cottage living at Chautauqua; the Accommodations Directory lists several dozen cottages available for weekly or seasonal rental. Additionally, several cottages let rooms on a daily or weekly basis, some larger cottages are run as inns or guest houses, and there are a few modern semi-Victorian-style condominiums which are available for weekly or monthly rental.

Chautauqua Lake also features the best muskellunge fishing in the world. The muskies average over 36 inches in length. Thirty-five other varieties of fish are also found in the lake. Sailing, swimming and water-skiing, as well as tour cruises and fishing charters, are all available.

People come to Chautauqua from all over the USA and many foreign countries. US Air flies into nearby Jamestown Airport. Many visitors arrive from Pittsburgh, Cleveland, and Buffalo.

Eleanor Roosevelt, a frequent visitor to Chautauqua, stressed, in a 1930 radio speech, the broad appeal for all members of a family to be found at Chautauqua. She listed opera, symphony concerts, plays, lectures, nature and sports as areas where "the whole family may, in each individual case, fulfil their own desires and interests and yet all can be together bringing their contributions to the family circle from whatever activity they have been engaged in."

This observation is true even today. Chautauqua continues to offer a wholesome mix of stimulating activities; yet, it also offers a palpable inner serenity.