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Cologne: A
vibrant city on the Rhine
By Shantanu
Mohan Puri
MY four-hour rail journey from Gar
de Nord, Paris came to an end with the Thalys entering
the Cologne (spelt and pronounced as Koln in German)
HaughBahnhof (Hbf), also known as the Dom because of the
dome shaped cover over the platforms. The Koln Hbf is the
central railway station where local and long distance
trains from across Europe arrive, depart or transit far
and wide across Europe, including the British Isles. With
more than 30 platforms and trains arriving and departing
every minute it gives the first impression of the active
life which Cologne is so imbibed with, and which I was to
discover and enjoy during my stay.
My first impressions of Cologne
were formed as a child of four when I visited it with my
parents, although these memories had more or less faded
till I stepped out of the railway station and looked back
at the enormous structure of the Dom which brought back
vivid memories of 20 years back. This structure is a
landmark across Europe and the world and many a visitor
comming to this city by train does not call the station
as Koln Hbf but simply as the Dom.
Out from one landmark
another accosted me. The distinctive spires of the
all-eclipsing Gothic cathedral welcomed me. The Cologne
cathedral has been the destination of Christian
pilgrimages for centuries. The stained glass inside
narrates various events from the Bible. I learnt from a
local that half million people visit the cathedral every
year and that it is one of the important landmarks of
this vibrant city.
Despite considerable
damage during the World War II the Cologne cathedral,
standing on the site of a church completed in 873 AD, is
the largest Gothic church in northern Europe and houses
art treasures that span more than a millennium.
This landmark was one of
the few monuments, which were left untouched during the
World War II. Cologne got its fair share of allied
bombings and was devastated, but thanks to hard German
labour and world-known German excellence in engineering,
Cologne was restored to its original glory
A brief history of
Cologne helped me understand this mix and match of the
old with the new. Cologne is actually a French name for
this German city, which is called Koln in German. This is
the largest city, with a population of approximately
9,37,000, in the state of North Rhine Westphalia
and is the cultural capital of the Rhineland.
Situated on the left bank of the Rhine river, it is in
western Germany, tucked between fellow cities of Bonn and
Dusseldorf. It dates to the first century BC, when Roman
invaders colonised it. The Franks and Prussians both
ruled the city at one time.
As I stepped out of the
Cologne cathedral, I saw what reminded me of a market
square like our Sector 17. The Wallrafplatz is the
beginning of the shopping and commercial area of Cologne.
With its low, block shaped buildings miniatured by modern
skyscrapers, at a few spots, it is a place where time
flies. The Wallrafplatz is surrounded by various narrow
streets, which are paved with modern shopping complexes,
restaurants, cafes and commercial establishments.
Designer stores, European and American, crystal,
Wedgwood, jade and chinaware shops litter the
surroundings. Walking through these streets is a window
shoppers delight but if done non-challantly can be
a confusing affair as I soon realised. After every 20-50
yards the streets open into a different platz (square).
For a visitor, especially one who has little knowledge of
German it can be a like figuring out a jigsaw puzzle.
With most signs in German it was not an easy task to find
my way. Thanks to direction from the locals I was able to
move around without really getting lost. Most Germans
understand English and are also able to converse in
comprehendible English. They are quite forthcoming and
help if approached sensibly and politely.
I finally took a detour
from my walk through the shopping complex to the
promenade by the Rhine. The Rhine was beautiful and calm.
It didnt quite fit into the picture of the
uncontrollable monster, which unleashes its wrath during
the rains on the towns through which it passes. It was
serene and calm, with its waters glimmering on this
bright and warm winter day. With small boats, ferries and
trawlers making up for the main traffic on the Rhine, it
is quite a busy waterway. I had been recommended a ferry
ride on the Rhine as one of the best ways to see Cologne
from another perspective, one, which would be quite calm
and slow, far away from the hustle and bustle. I took a
ticket for the "Dusseldorfer", one of the many
ferries, which ply on the Rhine. As I sat back and
enjoyed the view of the cathedral from the boat, the
Dusseldorfer slowly picked up, yet maintained
its 10 miles per hour pace and took me on this
magnificent waterway called the Rhine.
The ferry ride quite
reminded me of the one, which I took on the Thames from
the foot of the Big Ben to Greenwich. Cologne has its
fair share of bridges (Bruckes) like London. The most
impressive being the Mulheimer Brucke, which is one of
the longest suspension bridges in Germany. The Roden
Kirchener and the Deutz are some of the other ones, which
connect Koln with its suburbs. Warehouses and boat
restaurants are lined all along the Rhine. The Rhine at
places curves like a snake and at other places is
straight as an arrow but in all meanders through the
city. The main traffic on this waterway is of trawlers,
which either ferry oil or perishable goods from towns on
the Rhine. The ride was made more memorable especially
because of the complementary bottle of Kolsch
which came alongwith the trip. What more could I have
asked for good German beer, the local brew, a
bright sunny day, magnificent views and a slow laid back
boatride, the makings of a blissful and peaceful
existence. I am sure I would have turned Jerome
K.Jeromes three men in a boat green with envy! But
this was soon to change.
I met a few British
students who were on the Dusseldorfer and
like me were backpackers. We got off the ferry and made
our way to a local "biergarten" (pub) to keep
up the mellow effect of the complimentary
Kolsch.
Cologne offers a very
wide variety of cafes, pubs, restaurants and clubs. We,
according to our budget, settled for a wayside German
restaurant and relished German snitzell with mugs of beer
over plans to see the local sights.
I was lucky to befriend
like -minded people. As it turned out, all of us were
students who were backpacking across Europe on shoe-sting
budgets. This made things easier since certain things
were not required to be spelt; they were understood. One
such being to walk rather than prefer the local efficient
train, tram, bus or taxi service.
The old town has its
unique character interspersed amidst a touch of
modernity. It has quite a few Romanesque churches
alongside skyscrapers. While walking through this part of
the city I soon learnt that Cologne has 12 Romanesque
churches. The main one being St. Pantaleons,
Engelbert-kirche (church), St. Coloumbas and of
course the Cologne cathedral.
A visit to the museum
Ludwig was a fascinating experience. It houses the
biggest collection of American pop art. In the same
building as the museum is Colognes
"Philharmonie", a concert hall, that has played
host to the world famous composers like Zubin Mehta and
Karajan, among a host of other, and is well worth seeing
and hearing.
Cologne has more than 25
world famous museums. But one, which left an indelible
mark on my memory, was the Imhoff-Stollwerck Museum
better known as the Chocolate museum. The museum is
located on the northern most point of a small peninsula
which jets out into the Rhine and is a stones throw
from Altstadt. The building itself portrays an unusual
mixture of modern and historical architecture with glass
walls interspread with steel railings, brick walls and a
glass ceiling. The museum has hot houses where one can
walk amongst cocoa trees and approximately 60 other
exotic plant varieties. But the real treat is the
chocolate fountain which oozes with warm mouth-watering
chocolate. I did the invevitable, like many other
visitors and took a peck at the chocolate fountain and
ended up gorging on German "Schokolade" which
was later washed down with South American coffee at the
picturesque cafe overlooking the Rhine.
Cologne, being an
important commercial centre, plays host to innumerable
trade fairs conventions and exhibitions. Though it has
approximately 16,500 hotel beds and 2,500 private rooms,
sometimes the rush is so great that hotel ships are
moored alongside the exhibition grounds. Though I had my
aunt to stay with, my English friends had booked
accommodation at one of the local youth hostels for as
low as 35 DM. For sake of information I found out that
accommodation of all kinds and varieties is available. It
ranges from the friendly guesthouses to the Hyatt
Regency, Holiday Inn Crowne Plaza, and the Maritin. These
hotels benefit from the year round exhibitions, fairs and
conventions organised by "Koln-Messe", the
biggest of which is the, "Photokina", the
largest photography film and video fair in the world.
After a long day I
parted company from my friends and took the local train,
which runs between the suburbs and neighbouring towns of
Cologne, to my aunts house in Schildgen. I had
spent a long, enjoyable and active day which daily life
of Cologne is so characteristic of.
As the train went across
the bridge, I could see the Cologne cathedral draped with
strings of light bulbs shimmering in the night. While
looking at the only material souvenir I had picked up, a
bottle of Eau de Cologne, made in this city since the
early 18th century and responsible for christening the
city by the French as Cologne, I thought of vibrancy of
this German town and the exuberance of life which I had
witnessed during my brief stay. It invigorated my soul
and prompted me to tell myself that my "Auf wieder
sehn" was going to be short-lived, as I would some
day return.
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