Gori Ganga is an arterial waterway of upper Kumaon, and most
of the trek from Munsayari to the Milam glacier is along this route,
contends Pushpender Singh Gusain

A trek along Gori Ganga

THE Kumaon region in Uttarakhand is famous for fascinating lakes in district Nainital; exquisitely carved temples of district Almora; gorgeous sunrise of Kausani and unspoilt beauty of Ranikhet. At the same time, this region has ample opportunities for those with an interest in trekking and mountaineering.

Milam glacier is the source of Gori Ganga. In Jauljibi it merges in Kali Ganga and a large number of streams, emanating from different glaciers, join it. Gori Ganga is an arterial waterway of upper Kumaon. Most of the trek from Munsayari, the base for Milam trek, to Milam glacier is along Gori Ganga. Until 1962 this trek was also used by local people for trade with Tibet.

Between Someshwar, (about 46 km from Ranikhet) and Kausani lies an extremely beautiful 12 km-long fertile valley. A large number of villages are scattered throughout the valley. The paddy plantation was in full swing when we passed from here. Nestling among thick and dense pine trees on a ridge, Kausani is a fine place for lovers of solitude. We missed the famous sunrise of Kausani but had the breathtaking view of vast Himalayan ranges from here. It is a small place with a small population. Even then, we saw garbage scattered near a market on the road leading to Baijnath. The dead body of a dog was lying close to it. This was polluting the whole environment. One didn’t expect this at the birth and workplace of the famous poet Sumitranandan Pant.

Baijnath, the ancient capital of the Katyuri dynasty, is 12 km from Kausani. A large number of exquisitely carved temples are situated here at the bank of river Gomti. Although these temples have been declared protected monuments by the ASI, in the absence of proper care a few of them are dilapidated. The main temple houses a big idol of Goddess Parvati in its sanctum sanctorum. Our next stop was Munsayari.

At Munsayari, the gateway to the Zohar region, magnificent and glittering peaks of the Panch-Choli mountain range welcome visitors.

Perched over the gentle wooded slopes of a hill, Munsayari has an STD booth, a bank, a post-office and other facilities. It is also a trading centre and most of the foodgrain supply to the Zohar region is done from here. It also serves as a base for trekking and mountaineering activities in this region. We had an early morning view of the Panchcholi range before making a round of Munsayari town. We visited the district administration office for acquiring a permit to visit the Milam glacier. After receiving our permits, we began the first day of our trek of 13 km up to Lilam. It is a mule track and passes through a number of villages and terraced fields. Five km from Munsayari, there is a power-house at Darkot and close to it is a waterfall. Before proceeding further we had a refreshing bath at the fall. From here onwards, the gradually ascending trek is along the Gori Ganga.

Our next destination was Bug-udiar, 12 km from Lilam. This is an ascending trek up to Nain Singh top, which is a saddle. A water bottle is a must during this trek because for a large part of the trek, water is not available. The trek is very exhausting. After few steps one wants to take rest. While resting, before reaching the top, we met Anita a B.Sc. botany (Hon’s) student of Delhi University. She was returning from Milam glacier. She told us that Milam was her mother’s village and Martoli, (a village on way to Milam) her father’s village. Even though no blood relation of her stays, at present, in both the villages, she had come to see and feel her roots. We saluted her spirit and moved on. While leaving she suggested that we visit Martoli. Since other trekking groups also suggested the same, we modified our programme and included Martoli in the itinerary. The old trek from Bug-udiyar to Rargari is short and easy but it got damaged in the floods of 1995.

Reaching Nain Singh Top was like winning a battle and smiles returned on our faces. At Nain Singh Top one, literally feels at the top of world and can have a panoramic view of Himalayas. Munsayari can also be seen from here. We observed and savoured the vast expanses of mighty and marvellous Himalayas. From Nain Singh Top to Rargiri, a distance of about 4 km, the trek is a descending one and it passes through dense forests.

Udiyar in local dialect means shelter. It is situated on a small flat stretch on the true right bank of Gori Ganga. The ITBP has a transit post here and they checked our permits. We stayed in one of the PWD rest houses. Here also a pahari hotel caters to the needs of visitors. We came across two monuments paying homage to a group of soldiers who had lost their lives in an avalanche here. A local stream here joins the Gori Ganga. We made it a point to meet the ITBP personnel. We wanted to show our appreciation to them for guarding the frontiers of country in adverse circumstances. These people remain cut off from outer world for six months with the onset of winter. Then, their only contact with the outer world remains through the wireless.

After finishing the daily chores, we took breakfast and left the place by 8 a.m. for our next destination, Martoli. The ITBP mules were also being loaded with goods for their personnel stationed in forward posts. These mules cover a distance of 30 km from Bug-udiyar to Milam in one day. The trek is along the left bank of Gori Ganga. At a number of places, snow has yet to melt. At many places we trekked over large stretches of hardened snow. Gori Ganga, at many places, flows under these big snow boulders.

The trek for Rilkot to Martoli is enjoyable and provides a breath-taking view of different peaks, valleys and meadows. On the trek in the wide and open valley, and the upper portion of the mountain, one encounters icy winds. Fascinated by nature, we had no inkling of time till we reached Martoli, situated on the shoulder of a high mountain at an altitude of about 10,000 feet. The natural beauty of this place leaves everyone spell-bound. At the same time, the deserted and ruined houses leave one saddened. Until the 1962 India-China war, Martoli was a place that resounded with activity. It is now almost in ruins. Before war, trading with Tibet and goat and sheep keeping were major professions of the local people. Local traders used to take barley, sugar-candy, tea and gur to Tibet and bring borax, salt and wool from there. Trading came to an abrupt end after the war. These people, left high and dry, moved downwards in search of other avenues. Those few who still reside here are engaged in sheep and goat keeping.

Milan is at an altitude of 11,000 feet. Harvesting of peas, cabbage, cauliflower in summer can be done. Himachal Pradesh has already shown the way in this field. In the absence of a road, these vegetables cannot be transported to far-away trading centres but the same can be provided to ITBP and tourists who are totally dependent on the supply from Munsayari and lower areas.

In the evening we visited the ITBP camp to complete the formalities to visit the glacier. They checked our permits and made entries in their records. The vigour and enthusiasm that the ITBP shows in guarding the frontiers of country was visible in their actions. Adverse circumstances and the snow could not subdue their zeal. There is much we can learn about patriotism from them.

In the morning we left early for the glacier. The zero point is about 2 km from Milam village. We went beyond zero point up to the snout of Gori Ganga. After zero point, there is no regular trek and most of the time, we had to make our way through big boulders. Milam glacier is the nodal point for many high grade routes and peaks. Peak Trishuli, which is a part of the Gori Ganga watershed, can be seen against the back-drop of the glacier. We remained in the glacier for some time, amidst glittering peaks and snow. While relaxing we could see the avalanches occurring at regular intervals. Their roaring sound could also be heard. It was time to return to the rest house after absorbing the grandeur of the surroundings.