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Touchstones
Rustling up delicacies fit for the Gods
Bhicoo Manekshaw was the first Indian lady to earn the prestigious Cordon Bleu degree in culinary skills. In her long career as culinary adviser, she was consultant to Air India and handled important state dinners and banquets.
Ira Pande
IT is often said now that the present dispensation has systematically destroyed all the institutions that were so painstakingly established by the founders of our democracy. The task of building institutions to enable the new republic to function in a liberal and fair manner needed several other institutions to uphold the Constitution bestowed by our founding fathers. To a large extent, this was the task that the 50s and 60s undertook for these two decades were a period of remarkable institution-building. Almost all the eminent research and academic and cultural centres that have made India into what it is today owe much to the visionaries who set them up. It was an age of hope and enthusiasm with nation-building the mantra that guided all political and cultural policy. Homi Bhabha, JRD Tata, Vikram Sarabhai, Dr CD Deshmukh, Kamaladevi Chattopadhyaya, LC Jain… there are so many Indians to whom we must always be grateful for enabling the success of later generations to make their mark in various fields. Among the key institutions that were set up in the 60s, the India International Centre (IIC) occupies a unique place. A cultural centre, where free and open dialogue among members of an international community has been ever encouraged, it has preserved its tranquil, cultured atmosphere through almost 60 years of productive work. Till today, it remains an important hub of social and cultural dialogue among prominent players. That said, what many regard as its greatest achievement is its wonderful bar and fine dining. Its various dining spaces are packed to capacity and on any given day, you can be sure to find among the guests, eminent jurists, parliamentarians, venerable professors and economists with a sprinkling of artists and performers. All of them come to its dining halls or the tea lounge for the great food and drink always available at a modest price and served by waiters who know each member personally.
Memories: Bhicoo transformed the kitchen of the India International Centre, Delhi. |
Behind this great tradition of personalised hospitality, there is one towering personality: Mrs Bhicoo Manekshaw. A familiar sight until just a year ago, she was a tall, imposing lady, impeccably dressed in elegant handloom saris and coiffed to perfection, walking into the lounge and dining hall to check how everything was going. The kitchen staff adored her and a few years ago, long after she had stepped down as the catering consultant to the IIC, she decided to launch her latest recipe book in the IIC kitchen and made the chef, Vijay, do the honours. What can be a greater tribute to the staff than that? Mrs Manekshaw started her career by giving cooking lessons to Air Force wives (her husband was in the Air Force, busy setting up the Institute of Aviation Medicine in Bangalore). Later, when he was Air attaché to the Indian High Commissioner in London, she became the first Indian lady to earn the prestigious Cordon Bleu degree in culinary skills. In her long career as culinary adviser, she was consultant to Air India and was requested to handle important state dinners and banquets, notably the Commonwealth Chiefs Conference and the Asiad Games. Her work caught the eye of several discerning people, among them John Lal, the then Director of the IIC, who persuaded her to become the IIC’s catering consultant. Recently, to celebrate its golden jubilee, the IIC brought out a recipe book that has Mrs Manekshaw stamped all over it. From the delectable grilled cheese sandwiches to the elegant croquembouche, she changed the face of the IIC from a stodgy canteen fare to delicious soups, grills, confectionery and stunning desserts. She loved to regale us with stories of how she devised the concept of the Plat de Jour and the Gateau Indira she created once in honour of Mrs Gandhi, who loved entertaining there. She also named a dish for IIC’s architect, Joseph Stein, and one for Mr Lal. She was so fond of Premola Ghose, the Chief Programme Officer, whom she fondly called her foster daughter that she created a dessert Gateau Premola, a delicious concoction of gooseberries and cake. Even after she officially retired, she continued to regularly visit the centre. She was affectionately greeted by everyone and the chef would come personally to ask her what she fancied that day. Sometimes, she would lunch with us and invite us for a return meal at her smart restaurant Basil and Thyme in the upmarket Santushti shopping complex. How we looked forward to those invitations for they were at least three-course meals with a chilled soup (in summer), starters, entrée and a dessert to die for. Often we took the day off to digest the excesses of that meal. She also set up the popular Lodi Restaurant inside the Lodi Gardens where treetops sway to the aromas of the cuisine. My last meeting with her was in the IIC where she had come to have lunch with Premola and I was shocked at how frail she seemed. Leaning heavily on her silver topped walking stick, she had a nursing attendant and seemed to have shrunk. We greeted each other warmly and then parted. I am told that was one of her last outings. On April 14, soon after Navroz, this valiant Parsi left forever. No doubt she is busy advising the powers above on how to streamline their kitchen and making friends with all the foodies up there as she whisks ambrosia and nectar into a gateau fit for God.
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