Pedal march Manali to Leh in two days
Back in 2016, as a 17-year-old, cycling from Manali to Leh was my first big cycling adventure. Little did I know then that cycling would become such a huge part of my identity.
In 2018, I circumnavigated the globe on a bicycle. I was 19 when I started, 20 when I finished. Next year, I plan to undertake this challenge again, and this time, I hope to do it in the fastest time for a woman cyclist. So, it only made sense to come back where it all started — the Manali-Leh route — and build some confidence and sharpen the “mind” muscle by challenging myself.
I spent a month in Leh (at 3,500 metres) training for this. I had access to an indoor trainer, which meant that I could focus on very specific aspects of riding and work on that. However, most of my training was done outdoors.
My ride began at 2.13 am on June 13. I chose to start from Manali and take Rohtang Pass along the way. Even though this meant that I was climbing an additional elevation of over 2,000m, it made perfect sense to me. This route takes you from the foothills to the heart of the Indian Himalayas. My support crew included my father Vivek Kulkarni, my friend/mentor Sumit Patil, a Ladakhi friend named Faisal Qadir and the driver, Mangal, whom we hired from Manali. The overall route was 471 km. The passes along the way were between 4,000m and 5,300m. The average elevation of this route was well over 3,000m.
According to my Strava activity, it took me 51 hours, 49 minutes, 52 seconds to cycle from Manali to Leh along Rohtang Pass, Baralacha Pass, Nakee La, Lachulung La and Tanglang La. Our significant stops (any stops over 30 minutes) were at Bharatpur, Whisky Nulla and Pang.
Overall, it was a steady ride. The nights were pretty cold. At one point, the temperature went down to minus 13ºC. When it got too cold, I stopped and briefly put my hands in my pockets, where I had shoved some hand warmers.
When I felt tired, I’d have some caffeinated drink and nap for 10-15 minutes. Significant bits along the way where I remember struggling were the last few kilometres before Baralacha Pass and the last 10 km before the top of Tanglang La. I really enjoyed riding up Gata Loops. In 2016, I had struggled here, but on this particular ride, I felt super fresh and enjoyed my time climbing up the hairpins.
I mostly ate bananas, Five Star and Bounty bars and crisps along the way. When we found any dhabas along the way where I wanted to stop, I opted for my all-time favourite — Maggi. I drank Enerzal to replenish my electrolyte levels.
When I finished, apart from some uncomfortable rashes from chafing, I didn’t feel too worse for wear. I was a bit sleepy, but definitely hungry for some real food! Within a day of finishing, I started my journey back to the UK as I was to speak at the National Cycling Show in Birmingham on the weekend of June 17 and 18.
Back in 2016, I explored several ghats in our local area on my bike. Those rides taught me how to be resilient. Cycling long distances has given me the confidence to pursue my goals, no matter how big they seem, by breaking them down into smaller chunks. I am very grateful to my parents, my crew and all the kind strangers that we met along the way. I am proud of this ride and I got everything that I wanted out of it — confidence and courage.
Follow local advice
‘Thanks to the high altitude, the Manali-Leh route is vulnerable to quick changes when the weather goes bad. Those visiting these remote places should really do their research, understand the risks and follow local advice.’
