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Couture with a conscience
Couture wedded to ornate craftsmanship makes up many a fashion week. But creativity divorced from any cause makes fashion weak. Realising the need to relate fashion to not just creative expression but also the cause of environmental conservation, many Indian designers are going green. Eco found an echo in the pledge of the grande dame of Indian prêt Ritu Kumar at the recent Eco Week 2009 held in the Capital. “I was tired of making clothes using man-made fibres...from now onwards, my focus will be to work only with natural fibres...I strongly believe that everyone should actively contribute to saving the environment.” Pret for the Planet
This was a fashion show with a difference in that, apart from Ritu, it had prominent designers like Rajesh Pratap Singh, Raghvendra Rathore and UK-based mark Liu showcasing eco-friendly collections. Following suit, quite literally, are others in the fashion fraternity. Designers Payal Jain, Anju Modi and Deepika Govind, among others, have highlighted environmental concerns on the ramp. Payal’s ‘Black Earth’ collection creates awareness about global warming. Deepika Govind’s ‘Conference of the Birds; Concert of the Sea’ stems from a holiday in the Himalayas and her realisation of the imminent threat to its glaciers. For a segment of her collection, Deepika approached an NGO in Rishikesh to weave environment-friendly textiles in silk wool with the patterns of birds.
Organically yours
Sharing some techniques with Lifestyle, noted designer Sanchita Ajjampur, says, “I have experimented by growing coloured cotton with the help of experts in the field. The process includes growing the plant and adding natural dyes at this stage. Unfortunately, this could not be continued due to constraints.” On recycling fashion accessories, she adds, “In the past, we have made embroidered origami-like accessories using recycled silk and paper handmade paper. These were innovative as they could be detached, washed and reused.” She’s been invited to showcase at ‘Under the Louvre’ in France, ahead of the upcoming Paris Haute Couture and Men¹s Fashion Week in June-end. On apparel going organic, Anil Jain, chairman of the Venus Group that’s marketing the UV&W organic line, says, “We are sourcing the thread for the fabrics from Trident and Vardhaman, who are internationally certified suppliers of the organic cotton yarn. The dyes are also of international quality and extremely skin-friendly.” The Ludhiana-based UV&W Products is pioneering the trend towards certified organic cotton clothing in the country and has opened two exclusive stores in the tricity. Commitment to the cause apart, is organic clothing a costlier option and what’s its viability? Says Jain, “Despite the fact that organic cotton is 40 per cent more expensive than ordinary cotton, we have been able to leverage our vast experience in keeping the cost to the end user as low as possible. In any case, wellness-onscious people don’t compromise on quality.” On the green b(r)andwagon
When couturiers go green, can brands be far behind. Leading the pack, quite literally is Levi’s with not only its organic cotton denim range, but also how it packs it. For, its Tree-hugger friendly jeans, with recycled buttons, zippers and the works, now available in Asiacome packaged in recycled material and soy-based ink printing! Besides, Hara Design, a readymade garment brand, started out in 2005 with the aim to make organic cotton as common as cotton and ‘make organic a not-so-special a word.’ It makes clothes out of soya, jute and other green fabrics. Workplace dressing also goes green with Van Heusen’s organic Indigo & White collection, faux denim and all that. With green being woven into our everyday apparel, we can wear the cause on our sleeves, literally! chetnabanerjee@tribunemail.com |
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GQ@youngistaan
The day World Environment Day moves over from the ambit of ‘a question to be mugged for entrances’ and falls in the league of Valentine’s, Christmas, New Year, our efforts will stop. The day the query ‘what are you doing on Environment Day?’ sounds just as given as ‘where are you going this summer?’ our efforts will stop. Until then we have the proverbial ‘miles to go before we sleep’. Until then we wouldn’t stop nor they would they. Now, who are they? The environment friendly young brigade, which cares for the oceans, the glaciers, the nature, the mankind, our future. “When it comes to popularising environment causes and bringing them into mainstream consciousness on the part of people, we need to go exactly the way we did with elections and voting,” opines Nikhil Sharma, a fourth year UIET student and a member of the all- student group Environment Saviors. He adds, “Just because of aggressive and innovative campaigning, ultimately so many turned up to vote. We need to repeat the same with ecological issues as well.” True, we sure need to make the environment unfriendly lot feel like losers and left out! Kh Boboton Singh, a volunteer with Greenpeace, says, “Today we’ll be taking out campaigns, use banners, put posters urging people to do simple things — use CFL bulbs, be frugal with water and stuff like that.” Young Indians, Chandigarh chapter, CII, will be organising an awareness session comprising documentaries on climatic changes at the Regional Institute of Co-operative Management-32. Chips in Boboton, “We want to motivate people to bring about minor changes that precede major changes without altering their lifestyle.” What they can do individually, counts. But how receptive are they? Shares Nikhil, “Frankly speaking, only a few are aware while some don’t even care and unfortunately that’s the majority.” Lack of time, insensitive audience, resource crunch, indifferent reluctant crowds; that’s how what it’s like before making great strides. Right? “We meet different kinds of people. At times during our signature campaigns a lot many pretend they don’t have time to even listen,” says Boboton. As Jassimran Kaur, a Panjab University student and general secretary of Youth United, questions, “Honestly, how many would be interested if we told them that our glaciers in Antarctica are melting?” she adds, “When it comes to cause, health and drugs still draw attention whereas the environment is considered a flashy topic.” Nevertheless! There’s an urgent need to pull up the socks. So, what are they doing to infect everyone, bring in more in their sphere? “We are trying to bring in more people into our fold, every six months we hold a recruitment drive and select and interview only those that are genuinely interested,” says Jassimran. “Everyone who applies has to be compulsorily with us for three months. Last March, 230 applied out of which we selected sixty.” So, when are you applying? And by the way, what are you doing today? manpriya@tribunemail.com
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Objet
D’ Art Hand-painted banners and calendar art may be entering a phase of lull in terms of popularity, but the Baghra brothers want to keep this tradition alive at any cost Parbina Rashid As artists, they have two things common with M. F. Husain — banner painting and Madhuri Dixit. While their works are visible almost in all major fairs and cultural dos in the city, a lone portrait of the film star hanging at their small shop at an obscure corner in Manimajra bears the testimony of their other love. But no, the great master of modern art has no influence or whatsoever on them, though their path crossed once, a long time ago. “We met him when he came to Chandigarh almost a decade back. We were doing the hoardings for his programme at the Government Museum and Art Gallery –10 and when we were putting up a banner that had his picture at Matka Chowk, he came. I was about to forge his signature too, but he wanted to sign it himself. He climbed up the ladder and signed his name. It was an amazing experience,” recalls Subhash Baghra, the eldest of the trio. For any installations like banners or backdrops in most administration-sponsored programme, the Bhaghra brothers are simply indispensable. Subhash, Naresh and Rakesh — well, the names may not ring a bell but put them under Dev Art Studio and one can immediately connect. For the history of this studio goes back to the time when the City Beautiful existed only in the blue prints of Le Corbusier. Their workstation still bears some signs from the yore. A painting of Sohni-Mahiwal, a copy of Shobha Singh’s original, at the entrance is a reminder of Sat Dev, the father of the trio, who started the set up. Another few frames which remind one of the calendar art of the bygone era brings out a feeling of nostalgia. Most of these paintings are by Naresh, the middle one. Though calendar art and hand-painted banners are now mostly in the academic domain and revered at commercial auctions and exhibitions, its slow demise is forcing many artists look for other options. “Reproducing works of famous artists like Raja Ravi Varma or Sobha Singh is taking a backseat as there is not much demand for it. Even hand-painted banners are facing stiff competition from Flex prints. Keeping in mind our clientele, we too are taking to the computer but our hearts still beat for these two dying art,” say the three. Does that mean they too want to try out painting something original? “Absolutely not. We do not have the imaginative mind of an artist and we prefer to paint what is provided to us — dot by dot, shade by shade. We can shrink it or magnify it without losing the true essence of a painting, but harbour no desire to paint on our own,” says Subhash. However, that does not make them any less an artist. And there is a silver lining to the not so grim scenario. Calendar art will never die, opines an art critic. And she is right, considering that scholarship, particularly overseas, has focused on Indian popular art rather than on contemporary art studies, should be an incentive for artists like the Baghra brothers to stick to their age-old tradition.
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Not a wasted effort
It’s time to come a step ahead of environmental awareness; it’s time to embrace environmental activism,” says tricity’s eco saviour Gaurav Chhabra. A city-based social activist and an independent filmmaker (who made Green Warriors), he adds, “This is no time when slogans like ‘grow more trees’ works, rather it’s time to save the trees. More so, it is people’s responsibility to save the environment because the Administration is so busy with the mega projects and is using the NGO sector to hogwash the citizens.”
Succeeding in their deeds, Gaurav’s, ‘Green Warrior Campaign’ has finally accomplished a task of saving the beautiful ‘Heritage Village site ‘ in Sector 26, comprising of a beautiful water body and a biome of hundreds of species of flora and fauna.
CORK EXPRESS
The Vatsal Chaya Trust is running Good Beginnings—A Street Children Education And Vocational Program as well as Eco Art, an environmental programme. Says the woman behind it, Sangita Vardhan, “The purpose of environmental art is to generate interest, awareness, and empathy with ecological ethics. There is an overdose of environmental information but it is not creating a corresponding discernible change in our daily lives. We do not own responsibility for the huge amount of junk we add to our landfills, but
WRAP-SODY
We recycle bottle-caps, toffee, chips, chocolate, wrappers, pencil shavings and crayon stubs. We produce in school, fabric scraps to make
gift-wraps and gift bags. |
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The IIFA Weekend has kick-started in Bangkok. A sapling plantation was done by IIFA Brand Ambassador Amitabh Bachchan along with Abhishek and Aishwarya Rai Bachchan. Having started the event with plantation Big B put to words what he preaches. He wrote in his blog on June 3, 2009 at 12:33 AM… Most pertinent question - journo holding a mobile on speaker, obviously connected to his boss so he can fathom the proceedings of the PC, asking in a somewhat aggressive and dismissive tone, why when IIFA talks of global warming and greening the environment does it make the use of so much electronic equipment on shows and ceremonies… Answer from AB - Sir , maybe you ought to practice what you preach ! Can you put your mobile phone off please because that too is causing pollution to the environment.. Huge laughter and applause from the remaining press corps. Love Amitabh
IIFA 2010 goes green
Consumer electronics firms Videocon and Panasonic-- the co-sponsors of the Bollywood extravaganza IIFA awards for the first time are planning to use the platform to promote their eco-friendly products. Both Videocon and Panasonic said, the theme for this years' IIFA award is-- 'Go Green' -- which provides a perfect platform to endorse eco-friendly products."We have been working on bringing out products, which are energy conserving and environment friendly. So, getting associated with the IIFA awards... we will utilise this an opportunity to create awareness about it," said Panasonic general manager brand management and corporate strategy Sabiha Kidwai.
— PTI We need the environment. Preity Zinta is supporting any way to make sure the nature will not get lost. And for natures sake, she is taking ahead the cause 'say no to plastic bag'. And well, Preity even wore a tee that said 'say no to plastic'. It was showcased at Manish Mahotra's Spring/Summer '08 Fashion Show. Manisha Koiruala too weas spotted wearing the same tee.
In an attempt to strengthen its commitment towards fighting the issue of climate change, IIFA launched the Green Global Foundation this year. In a symbolic gesture towards the climate change issue, instead of the usual red carpet reception to the celebrities, the IIFA had a green carpet reception at the IIFA Weekend in Bangkok this year.
Leading actor Aamir Khan too joined the Narmada Bachao Andolan (Save Narmada Movement) to campaign against the increase in the height of Sardar Sarovar Dam. Other prominent actors associated with the movement included Kunal Kapoor and Shabana Azmi, among other members of the "Bollywood family". Vidya Balan started a tree plantation drive by planting the first tree in association with Lanxess Pvt. Ltd. that donated Rs three lakh for Save the Children India foundation.
Madhuri Dixit and Amisha Patel are too an active campaigners in environmental movements. Amisha has been aggressively involved in meetings, conferences, and seminars organised to build up public opinion favouring tree plantation. The '90s leading lady, Madhuri, is a strong activist of environmental issues confronting North-East India's forests. In the past she reacted strongly to the indifference displayed by state police in the killing of wild elephants by hunters. Madhuri followed the matter up with relevant government ministers. She has also played an important role in boycotting 'Shahtoosh' shawls that are made from the soft undercoat of the endangered Chiru, a Tibetan antelope. The majority of Bollywood artistes have condemned the abuse of various animals by the leather industry. Hemant Trivedi, Raveena Tandon, Rahul Dev, and Esha Deol are campaigning actively against the use of leather in the fashion industry. Artistes such as Hema Malini, Juhi Chawla, Mahesh Bhatt, Kareena Kapoor and the icon of Indian film industry, Amitabh Bachchan, are staunch supporters of People for Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA).
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Path to redemption
Any musical form or tradition should never be allowed to be a closed-door institution. It should rather be purified and enriched through innovation and the codes and conduct rules of gharanas should be softened for better coordination to serve the sole cause of music,” opines Atish Mukopadhyay, the young sarod maestro, fighting to restore the grandeur of old dharupad from the verge of extinction. The ustad who is just back from a concert tour in Russia, visited the city on the invitation of his disciple Rishi Ranjan. Holding allegiance to Maihar Senia Gharana, the sarod exponent is the foremost disciple of Ustad Aashish Khan, son of Ustad Ali Akbar Khan Saheb. Born in a musical family of Howarah, Atish, the only son, studied science while music flowed in his veins. “A visit to Maihar to pay reverence to my music deity Baba Allaudin Khan Saheb changed my life. I realised I had to follow my conscience and decided to devote to music,” says Atish. “In 1985, I fell under the tutelage of Guru Ustad Dhyanesh Khan. After his demise in 1991, Ustad Aashish Khan and Aamina Pereira took me under their wings. My learning and performing in the USA went hand-in-hand and recognition back home ushered in prestigious awards like Medha Search Talent-1991, Sangeet Sadhak-2006, Surmani title and an award from the Sur Singar Samsad-Mumbai in 2007,” he adds. Sharing his experiences of the latest concert tour, Atish felt at the top of the world for a rare distinction of being the first artiste from Maihar Gharana to perform at St. Petersburg’s Conservatory. “People were warm. Thanks to Pandit Ravi Shanker, Ali Akbar Khan, Indian music requires no introduction. Based on my five concerts and two demonstrations, I feel many music lovers in Russia know much more than our average artists,” says Atish. The Art institutes there too are independent with no constraints of the official apathy. “My dream performance at Phil Harmony in a fusion concert with jazz group led by acclaimed maestro, Vladimir Volsokov won rave reviews,” claims Atish Mukhopadhyay. “But in my earlier performances I presented the traditional ragas and compositions , especially Dhrupad form of my Maihar gharana which they relished. We need to inculcate the appreciation for music among younger generations like music lovers in foreign lands,” Atish opines. After his popular music album Majestic Senia Sarod-Dhrupad Style Aatish is contemplating a big venture of World Music which entails a series of concerts by world musicians and making of some music albums. lifestyle@tribunemail.com
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Side Lanes
A horrible and unwelcome contrast is the media in Australia. The weather seems to be of prime concern. There is the 24x7 official channel which measures rain in millimeters because that is the amount of rain expected in most of this drought-ridden country. There have been some floods in far away Queensland, but minimal people died because they were evacuated or rescued on time. How uninteresting! The Indian students, numbering almost 90,000, protested racial attacks at Flinders station, Melbourne, but soon dispersed after a couple of arrests. No maar peet or haatha pai, which again makes for bad copy and uninteresting reading. It is monsoon time in Australia. Every home has neat roof gutters, which collect rainwater and dew for the year to follow. Watering of gardens can be done with municipal water, twice a week, only for two hours. No one breaks this rule and lawns are forbidden except on golf courses and bowling greens after a permit is issued. And yet there is a 24-hour supply of water, electricity and gas in the home. No loudspeakers, ear- shattering music, skipping traffic lights or hit and run cases. Huge fines are imposed for breaking the rules. What fun are rules if they can’t be broken? My Punjabi blood boils at this restriction of freedom. In Chandigarh, I want to smell the watermelons and mangoes before buying them. At Safeway, when I stuck my nose into a banana, a ring of spectators looked on in horror. I am used to snapping the tip of every bhindi to check for tenderness. Here they sell this vegetable, chopped and frozen in packets at $5 for 500 gms. I have to dry it in the sun so that it is not gummy when I serve it up. In shops I stand in queues to pay my bill, at least five feet away from the person ahead of me. I maintain a 10-feet distance between cars while driving and do not toot the horn however much pleasure that may afford me. At the restaurant, people do not push others or pull out the best pieces from the main course. Who wants so much privacy? I certainly don’t. I miss the fights, the arguments, the bargaining in shops, the nosey neighbour, the sharing of over-the-wall music as the next home celebrates a child’s mundan. There are hardly any community celebrations here. The silence often makes me want to sing and talk to hear the sound of my own voice. Ugh! What a strange, sanitised, impersonal country! They have no news worth listening to. Everything and everyone seems to work smoothly and efficiently. The people are polite and don’t seem to enjoy a good fight. The cleaning woman cleans under the bed instead of trying to find something forgotten and worth pinching. I came to Australia because I saw Nicole and Hugh in a film of the same name. I am going back to India because there is no masaala here, neither in the food or the news.
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The Heritage Village site was revived from dilapidated, marshy, mosquitogenic conditions by the Avant Garde environmentalist of the city S.K. Sharma of the Environment Society of India, a few years back with community participation.
even small changes in reducing, reusing and repurposing things will make a big difference in reducing each family’s environmental impact.
Bollywood actor Hurman S Baweja- starrer Echo Of Eco, a documentary on global warming, was screened at the ongoing 62nd Cannes Film festival. The actor says such films give creative satisfaction. "I am honoured to be apart of a film like this that's supported by the UN and has Pan Nalin directing it. At the same time, the film is very challenging. That's what prompted me to be a part of this film. These films give creative satisfaction," says Hurman.
Bollywood star Akshay kumar has been named the brand ambassador of International Indian Film Academy's
(IIFA) Green Global Foundation, which champions the issue of global warming through various international events. 'Being the brand ambassador for the Green Globe Foundation is a great honour for me as it gives me an opportunity to highlight the fight against global warming,' the actor said.
Today, an array of popular actors, actors and other popular, creative artistes are coming together to protect their planet.
Hawayein, patte, pani, per, jungle, sabz sona hain...
Chhat pat, maaza aur masaala,” that just about describes street food and news in India. The morning papers are a front page litany of beatings, bandhs, murders, rapes, robberies, scams and scandals. Add to these mud slinging, name-calling and false allegations and we have a treat of delightful gossip-cum-unimportant snippets that give us fodder for the day’s conversation. An incident in Austria brought Punjab to a standstill. No one even asked if it shattered the economy for the week in question. Maybe, it did not make much of a difference in the times of recession. Or, maybe our statesmen find it easier to let people vent their spleen rather than become model, civic minded citizens who start questioning the rights and mores of society.