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Sunday, September 14, 2003
Lead Article

Visiting centuries of history
Sushil Kaur

The Leeds castle is named after Led, the King of Kent
The Leeds castle is named after Led, the King of Kent

THOUGH the usual coach or rail service operates from London, it is most agreeable to rent a car and get on the M20. You can drive at a laid-back speed along the undulating Kent countryside that is delicately pastoral, go about five miles east of Maidstone and at junction 8 you reach Leeds castle. This very ancient and one of the most romantic castles in England which for 300 years was the abode of the royal family. Rising from its two small islands in the midst of a tranquil lake, was initially a Norman stronghold, but was later converted to a residential palace for the royalty. Eight medieval queens of England were in residence here amidst rolling peaceful parklands, lakes, streams and waterfalls which leave you enthralled. The castle has now been most cautiously and discerningly restored, without even once ignoring the myths and legends linked with its history.

The castle that is named after Led, the King of Kent in AD 857, is delightfully furnished with medieval beds, dining chairs and tables that almost take you back to the days of King Arthur and his Round Table. French and English furniture and fabrics embellish the northern living room where the tapestries and paintings in the hall are extremely impressive.

 


An ancient vineyard is located next to the 13 greenhouses. The wine buff must not come away without tasting the castle’s own wine which is produced through the year by the Leeds Castle Foundation which now looks after the maintenance of this historic and striking reminder from the past and takes pains to protect the beauty of the Castle and its grounds for the delight of the public. It was Hon. Lady Baillie who bequeathed it to this charitable trust which has now opened a nine-hole golf course against the gorgeous backdrop of the ancient edifice.

Parkland and gardens
Parkland and gardens

You can even get a trainer if you plan to live in the vicinity in a hotel or a bed-and-breakfast for some days. A week here is good enough to have a great holiday taking walks through the well preserved lawns or spending hours in the fabulous aviary which features 48 flights accommodating an exceptional collection of the rare and endangered species of birds from around the world.

An itinerant leisurely walk within the park, as well as in the duckery, enables one to see curious and out-of-the-ordinary waterfowl, black swans, rare geese and peacocks. And if you are lucky you might get to enjoying the Festival of English wines or the International Balloon Fiesta. Annual open air concerts or the traditional Jazz Open Air are events not to be missed. The Kentish Evening Dinners with their five course meals, wine and entertainment leave you in state of luxuriant self-indulgence.

If you are tired and you think you need a refreshment or if you are really hungry get on to visiting Fairfax Hall, which is a magnificently restored 17th century tithe barn with a self-service restaurant and a bar where a glass of lager or bitter is tremendous on a warm sunny June afternoon. Salads and cream teas are very popular and do not miss to go in for them if you are not in a mood to have a hot meal. Picnic sites near the entrance can be used if you are carrying your own tiffin basket. For a lunch break you can instead also visit the Culpeper Garden and enjoy your own meal surrounded by well-known and time-honoured English flowers and herbs.

The untamed Woodland Walk is a must for those who enjoy the outdoors, especially on a sunny day. What is most absorbing is to then trudge along to the Gate House which contains a most incredible and irreplaceable collection of dog collars dating back to the Middle Ages. Nearby is the 14th century Barbican and fortified Mill which are an important feature of the castle’s defences, now open to the visitors after major excavations a few years ago. The real historic experience comes when you move on to the maze with its classical design. An underground grotto lies like veiled treasure at its centre. Myth and legend all adorn its walls amidst tunnels, caves and plummeting water which tempts you to linger on and slowly take in the clean air and the sounds of silence only broken by the sound of the waterfalls.

Visiting the Castle Shop is a help if you want to carry souvenirs for friends. A wide range of gifts can be bought as a memory of your visit that is bound to leave an impression for years on end. The only thing that leaves you rather disturbed is the gross commercialisation of this lovely castle. Facilities like business and private functions from dinners, dances, formal receptions, banquets and residential seminars or conferences, all disturb the quiet and peace of the place and is an irritant for a discerning visitor. But then this may be one way of generating enough funds for the upkeep of the castle and the sprawling area around it. Maybe the Archaeological Survey of India should learn a lesson from this.

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