He unnecessarily drags himself and the reader through the
bylanes of Chennai, Mahedeshwara Malai, Mysore, Gopinattam (the
native village of Veerappan) to the Hogenakkal Falls that lie on
the fringe of the jungles that are home to the dreaded brigand
and are described rather fancifully as a "barrier, border
between good and evil." This trip to unmask the reality of
Veerappan — is he an anti-hero or Robin Hood-like champion of
the poor? — again gets stuck in irrelevant territory when the
author goes soliciting reel-life baddie Gulshan Grover and
director Mahesh Bhatt’s views on the real-life ‘villain.’
His subsequent
conversations with STF men, villagers and ex-hostages — people
who’ve had some direct or indirect contact with Veerappan —
manage to get the derailed account back on track and bring some
authenticity to his demystification of this modern-day criminal.
Barring some passages that smack of a typically firang
perception of India—as a place that’s exotic yet savage and
stinking— Rushby is able to paint a progressive portrait of
21st century India with his deft imagery. He captures
contemporary sights and sounds thus: "At the start of the
new millennium... times had changed; the country was a major
software producer with a growing middle class who preferred
swanky new Toyotas and Suzukis to Raj-era trams and cast-iron
bicycles." His familiarity with Indian names and terms is
not as impeccable though. Dawood Ibrahim is spelt as Daud,
Jayalalithaa as Jayalitha and paddy as padi.
Rushby’s
southern excursions don’t yield much and he ends up
disappointed at finding that the Robin Hood-like mystique
surrounding Veerappan is misplaced and unreal.
He then meanders
northwards in search of the Sleeman legend, weaving into his
travels the myth of Kali and the exoticism that it lent to the
thuggee cult. Legend has it that whenever Goddess Kali hacked a
demon to death, the drops of his blood turned into new demons.
To counter this, the Goddess created two men from the sweat on
her brow and gave them scarves to strangle the demons. Thus, the
thugs who waylaid unsuspecting travellers and strangled them
with handkerchiefs, came to be regarded as the children of Kali
and their exploits acquired the glamour of a fanatical,
sacrificial cult.
His sojourns to
Narsinghpur, Jabalpur, Sleemanabad, Jhansi and finally Kolkata
are laced with thug stories culled from works of fiction and
personal accounts of people he meets in the course of his
open-ended travels. He dips liberally into Confessions of a
Thug by Philip Meadows Taylor, John Master’s The
Deceivers, Sleeman’s Rambles and Recollections and
other historical and fictional texts to feed the reader with
images of the thuggee period.
Much as the idle
ramblings of Rushby’s fellow travellers and acquaintances rob
his thuggee accounts of forcefulness, the trips further into the
heartland begin to deprive his exotic image of this criminal
cult of its glamorous sheen. As he delves deeper into the
tangled maze of history, he comes face to face with a reality
that’s miles away from the romantic, colonial images of
thuggee that he’d carried to India. The myth stands eroded:
the thugs killed, not for Kali, but for riches. He unmasks the
economic reality behind this exotic criminality thus,
"`85the thugs were freebooters and to a great extent
created by British conquests. Their opportunity for thievery was
due to the opium trade...
Understandably so,
Rushby winds up his travel in the city of Kali — Kolkata — a
final tribute to "the great Goddess whose brooding bloody
presence had hovered over" his journey.
As Rushby ends up
disillusioned with the romantic images of thuggee, so does the
reader feel disappointed with much of the ambling and rambling.
Thankfully, some colourful pictures brighten up the volume. And,
of course, there’s the bindaas Maddy, Rushby’s
companion in half of the travels, to lend some bohemian cheer to
what would have otherwise been a drab reading trip.
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