Picture-perfect Andaman Islands

There are numerous smaller islands in the Andamans that are open to tourists except for the restricted areas inhabited by tribals, which include most of Nicobar, writes Swati Maheshwari

MISERABLE, bleak, grey winter mornings. Shivering cold that makes you hate budging from your quilt. Weighed down by layers of woollens. Hands and feet that remain perpetually frozen. Chill that sets into your bones making you eagerly await the sun’s appearance.

Cut to glorious, sunkissed beaches, glossy green palms, a turquoise coloured sea surrounding you. Picture-perfect. Destination of a dream holiday. That’s what Andaman and Nicobar Islands offer. A glimpse of heaven. A taste of bliss. Untouched beauty that makes you gasp in awe. Tropical greenery that makes your breath catch in wonder. Amazement at how humans have managed to leave some places unpolluted on the face of this planet.

Landing at the Port Blair airport gives you a preview of the vistas that lie ahead. (That’s if you’re lucky enough to get plane tickets which run fully booked two months in advance). Tropical islands, sparsely populated lie scattered in a vast blue ocean like sparkling emeralds. Its a small, quaint airport that greets you, underpinning just how far away you are from a metropolis or the mainland, in splendid isolation in the Bay of Bengal.

In Port Blair itself you can’t travel in any direction for long without encountering the sea. There is an all-pervasive sense and smell of the sea, of waves crashing against the island incessantly. If you’re in the sun, it can get uncomfortably warm around noon but the sea breeze refreshes all day long. Soon you fall in step with the unhurried pace of the island and unwind to savour the sun, wind and water. The islanders, mostly South Indians, are friendly, likeable who seem to be in a permanent holiday mood.

Port Blair has a number of boats carrying tourists to various islands. One of the most memorable experiences is the ferry to Jolly Buoy Island, part of the MGM national park. In this day-long trip, the journey is as splendid as the stay on the island. The flora and fauna of the uninhabited islands on the way are a visual treat as well as a lesson in botany. They remind you of what you studied about tropical vegetation in geography. These islands have dense forest cover with a thick web of at least a 100 shades of green, sprinkled with wild flowers. Now, you know what the African jungles along the Amazon river must look like.

The most fascinating facet of the sea is the play of colours on water. It’s impossible to decide whether it’s blue or green. After a while, you give up and just delight in the experience. The waters change colours where corals are found on the seabed, as the sea surface reflects the colour of the corals.

Despite its relatively small beach, Jolly Buoy is a haven with its silvery sand and underwater coral reef all around. In fact, Andaman and Nicobar Islands boast of one of the best coral reefs found anywhere in the world. Its a once in a lifetime opportunity to view rare corals and underwater marine life through glass bottom boats. Its absolutely incredible to see exotic corals humming with marine life. Fish swim in and out of widespread colonies of corals. It’s another world out there! And, on a glass bottom boat, you feel you could reach out and touch them. If you’re lucky, you can even spot salt water crocodiles and sea snakes in the MGM national park.

If you’re looking for dolphins, islanders advise a trip to Cinque Island but you need a lot of luck. Even if the dolphins don’t make an appearance, camping on the unspoiled beach with snorkelling, swimming, scuba diving thrown in, is more than worth it.

Another island that is a must on a holiday in the Andamans is the Havelock Island. Its popularity can be gauged by the fact that our Prime Minister chose to welcome his New Year, 1999, on this island. This is an island that can’t be done in a day because of the schedule of the boats. You have to spend a night there which is definitely not a hardship considering its beautiful beaches. A night on this island, that is nestled literally in the middle of nowhere, gives you a sense of isolation. You lose your sense of time, which is the precise purpose of a holiday from the hustle-bustle of everyday life. It also restores your sense of proportion when you realise what a tiny speck you are on a tiny island in the middle of a vast ocean.

Back in Port Blair, there are a couple of things that can’t be missed. One is the Cellular Jail which made these islands infamous by the name of ‘Kaalapani’. Constructed by the British in 1906 house ‘traitors’ to the British Raj, its history has been reconstructed in a light and sound show.

For those who don’t relish the prospect of long ferry rides to various islands, Corbyn’s Cove in Port Blair and Ross Island just across it are ideal to revel in sand and water. Ross Island has a beautiful beach shaded by gorgeous green palms. Once a seat of British power, now there stand only ruins of the old structures. At various places stand signboards indicating the ‘bakery’, ‘officers’ club’, the ‘tennis courts’ etc. Its amusing and quite spooky to see only debris overrun by vegetation left at these indicated spots.

Corbyn’s Cove, another picturesque sea beach, has a steady stream of foreigners sunbathing. To reach Corbyn’s Cove, its a pleasure to drive on the winding road along the periphery of the island where the sea is never out of your sight.

There are numerous smaller islands in the Andamans that are open to tourists except for the restricted areas inhabited by tribals, which include most of Nicobar. So there is a lot of ‘sight-seeing’ you can do here. But if you just want to stay put in one place, put your feet up and savour the various moods of the sea, feel the sea breeze in your hair, let sand slide through your fingers, build sand castles and dream, these islands are the perfect choice. Andaman promises you heaven and delivers.