Some styles never change
Fashion
By Sumona Roy

SUDDENLY everybody seems to be concerned about the state of things to be in the new millennium. For fashion writers, it has become fashionable to predict new silhouettes, colour schemes, fabric textures and the fall of garments, as though all these would change at one stroke.

In all this speculation, what is generally overlooked are styles that would continue to remain sensible, comfortable and smart, given the conditions of climate and the constitution of Indian women. These factors do not change.

So surely, there is nothing that can quite replace the salwar-kameez and saree from having mass appeal. Both are eminently practical, gracious and versatile enough to be altered, adapted and deconstructed to suit the whims of designers.

Similarly, accessories like shoes, scarves and handbags will remain very much the same as they were a decade ago. Despite cross-cultural influences and globalisation of the economy, there is a point beyond which Indian women will not adopt a foreign style.

What would, however, make a difference is their extra attention to detail. Designers who could get away with a loose button or bad finish will necessarily have to pull up their socks. With foreign labels increasingly showing up, nobody can afford to take too many chances. The attention to detail would also extend to fabric weaves, texture, dyeing and printing quality and above all, embroidery. Contrary to what fashion pundits have had to say, embroidery will remain a major selling point for the Indian fashion industry.

In fact, these and other embellishments would determine how modern, opulent or traditional a garment could be rated, both in ethnic and western wear. Even the quality of fabric will not be as much of a decisive factor as the embroidery.

Another important factor that would prevail upon designers’ minds is the need to stretch the rupee. The days of experimenting with avant garde styles and charging a bomb for them are over. Designers will have to work at creating a new look by mixing and matching existing styles. Young women faced with budget constraints are already putting together mix-’n’-match wardrobes. This could mean a couple of jackets, a skirt, a pair of trousers, teamed with a few blouses of either shell or bead work, silk embroidery or zardozi.

Colours are equally important, as the Indian skin carries anything — black, navy, chocolate, fuschia, electric blue, emerald green and clear reds among solids, and beige, brown, rust, white, ecru, green and ivory among the earthy hues.

Ultimately, the point being recognised is that with fashion consciousness spreading, women are learning to make the most of the minimum. So, there are women judiciously sticking to strong lines with tailored skirts, jackets and trousers during daytime and switching to crochet blouses, lycra, crepe, georgette, satin, silk and brocade (in metallic colours) for evening wear.

As for fabric options, once again the preference would be for the tried-and-tested crepes, silks, linen, natural fibres (cottons, jute and khadi) and blends like voiles, terycots terywools, viscose, polyster, locil and tencel.

The advantage of the blends is that they sculpt very well on the body, are easy to maintain, allow structured designs and are ideal for tropical climates. With women increasingly joining the work force, blends shall remain top favourites.

Next is the silk in all its variety: tussar, raw silk, khadi silk, kanjeevaram, Bhagalpuri... They play hell on laundry bills but will continue to be popular since nothing can quite match their classic appeal. Moreover silks breathe easily.

Linens are equally popular, whether Indian, Italian, Thai or French, particularly for the unstructured look of flowing tunics and gowns. Apart from ensuring a superb fall, these breathe easily and are seen as ideal for the Indian climate.

Finally, there are the crepes — Chinese, silken, georgette, polynosic and polyster. Largely crush-proof, these are once again considered ideal for the working woman as they are easy to maintain. (MF)