Fortifying a resplendent past
By Saikat Neogi

AFTER successfully converting ancient palaces into resorts, the Rajasthan Tourism Development Corporation (RTDC), is now gearing up to restore some of the state’s precious forest forts into heritage sites. Forts and small havelis in dense forests of Bharatpur, Sariska, Ranthambhor and other regions of Rajasthan traditionally served as camping sites for the erstwhile maharajas of the state during their shikar outings.

Apart from camping sites, these forest forts were used as vigil posts to keep the enemy at bay and were storehouses for arsenal for the small band of army men posted in each of these forts.

With the abolition of privy purses many of the erstwhile kings abandoned these forts and havelis which came under state control. Though some bigger ones kept getting grants for their upkeep many smaller ones were left virtually abandoned at the mercy of the vagaries of nature. Now a few of these forts are poised to get a dramatic face lift.

One of the most famous reserve is the Ranthambhor forest for popularly known as the Jogi Mahal — 14 km from Sawai Madhopur — from which the wildlife reserve park derives its name.

Ranthambhor National Park, once the shooting reserve of the successive maharajas of Jaipur is spread over 1,080 sq km. Situated at the eastern limits of the Aravalli range, this tract of rolling hills, barren rock and dry deciduous forest is interspersed with valleys watered by numerous lakes. An oasis in a desert which is thronged by tourists in the winter months.

"Rajasthan has many such forest forts which need to be restored to their former glory as they have a very rich history and legacy," says G.N. Bhatt, the state information officer.

Another resplendent fort palace which has been identified is in the Sariska National Park. The park was built at the close of the 19th century and is now world renowned for migratory birds and other fauna including an occasional tiger.

The fort palace stands as a backdrop to the lush green Sariska forest. Though it has been well maintained, it is now being done up and converted into a heritage resort. Nearby Bharatpur was once a favourite hunting resort for the kings and princes. It has now become famous for the Keoladeo National Park, a world-class bird sanctuary.

The park is home to over 400 exotic bird species which migrate every winter from Afghanistan, Central Asia, Siberia and Tibet. The greylag and barheaded geese are among the important visitors but the major attraction is the rare Siberian Crane.

Lohagarh fort is the focal point of Bharatpur. Made of solid iron it took 60 years to build this fort. Also known as the Iron Fort, the pucca mud walls that surround the fort and blend with the townscape are a testimony to the keen eye for architecture possessed by the successive kings of Rajasthan.

For years now the fort has been in a dilapidated state as it is being used by the state government to run its offices. Another part of the sprawling fort provides accommodation to babus working in these offices. But now the Lohagarh fort is being converted into a heritage resort for upmarket tourists.

Located just 34 km from Bharatpur is the ancient town of Deeg also known for its forts and havelis. Here, the famous Deeg Palace has gardens which are marvel of engineering skills. It would be no exaggeration to say that the elegance of design and workmanship of this palace is not seen elsewhere in India.

However, the shifting sands of Rajasthan have taken a toll here as well. And the palace is in urgent need of renovation. Now, thanks to the state government’s decision, it is being resorted and converted into a heritage resort.

"Besides giving new life to these forts and palaces, the restoration will serve another purpose — that of opening up fresh tourist destinations in Rajasthan," says Abdul Naseer, an avid travel writer visiting Rajasthan for 40 years now. "These forts are a reminder of the colourful history of the state."

Take, for example, the Taragarh Fort in Bundi district in the midst of Ramgarh Sanctuary. Built in 1354 AD, it has a lotus lake in its midst. Perched on a thickly wooded hill it is a marvelous white fort with a huge reservoir. After years of lying in ruins it is now being converted into a heritage resort.

"There are so many forts and palaces in Rajasthan that’s it’s difficult to make a choice," says G.N. Bhatt. "Every little detail has to be gone through for proper restoration work."

As has been the case with the magnificently decorated hunting lodge built by Maharaja Umaid Singh of Jodhpur in 1933. Located at Sardarsamand in district Pali and overlooking a large lake teeming with birdlife, this too is becoming a heritage resort.

In Udaipur district again there is the Raj Mahal standing amidst the wooded Sitamata wildlife sanctuary and the Jai Samand lake. Here too work is on and the resort should be operational to meet the tourist season in a few months.

— Newsmen Features