City of global trade fairs

A glimpse of the beautiful city of Hannover makes it hard to believe that it was nearly completely destroyed by air-raids during World War II. It took a long time to rebuild the city brick-by-brick from a mass of rubble and perhaps, it might never be completely restored to its former magnificence and splendour. But, on the threshold of the 21st century as Hannover prepares to take on the world as the ‘international trade fair city’, says Kanika Sharma

IN the first half of the 20th century, Germany played a pivotal role in shaping the history of the world. As homeland to Adolf Hitler, it bore the brunt of the world’s fury against him, in the form of widespread destruction and even post-war division into two halves. But the Germans known for their resilience and strength of character held on, made good the damage and emerged as an economic powerhouse.

One of the most classic examples of the resurgence of Germany is the city of Hannover. A glimpse of the beautiful city makes it hard to believe that it was nearly completely destroyed by air-raids during World War II. It took a long time to rebuild the city brick-by-brick from a mass of rubble and perhaps, it might never be completely restored to its former magnificence and splendour. But, on the threshold of the 21st century as Hannover prepares to take on the world as the ‘international trade fair city’. Hannoverians are proud of the modern face of their city and justifiably so. In the year 2000 A.D. Hannover will play host to World Exposition Expo 2000, a large and unique festival which is to be a celebration of the multitudinous cultures of the world, apart from being a trade fair. From June 1 to October 31 2000 A.D. several artists, musicians performers, sportsmen and women from all parts of the globe, shall come together at one place to provide the millions of visitors with loads of fun, entertainment and excitement.

On a recent visit to Germany, I took a trip around this enchanting city to find out what makes it the special place that it is. I was fortunate to find a guide in my good friend Peter, a local resident of Hannover who agreed to show me around his city. We decided to make the most of the one day that I had in Hannover by starting off early in the morning. On the way to the city centre, Peter briefed me on the history of the 700-year-old city. For Hannover, which was once a part of the Holy Roman Empire, the first turning point came in the form of a royal connection with the kingdom of Great Britain.

Faced with the problem of appointing a successor to Queen Anne, the British Parliament, in order to secure the Protestant line of succession, chose the Dowager Electress Sophia of Hannover and her descendants as successors to the British Throne. Sophia was a Protestant and as granddaughter of James-1, former King of Great Britain, complied with all the requirements. But she died before Queen Anne and it was her son who came to the throne as George-1. Thus began the personal union between the electorate of Hannover and Great Britain in the person of a joint monarch. The union lasted five generations during which Hannover stood in reflected glory but also in shadow of Great Britain. It became a stage for the disputes between Britain and France, which tried to attack the King of the island nation in his most vulnerable place — his German homeland. But Hannover also gained from English support that won for the city, an increase in the size of its electorate at the Congress of Vienna that reshaped Europe in 1814 A.D. Economic progress, however, suffered due to excessive reliance upon Britain. As fate would have it, the personal union ended abruptly in 1837 with the death of William IVdue to differing laws of succession. In Britain, Queen Victoria ascended the throne while in Hannover her uncle, King Ernest Augustus, took over.

Though the union ended, a host of historical witnesses remained, a large number of which are still to be found in the museum of history and others in the form of buildings and landscapes that survived the World Wars. Among the best preserved ones are the Royal Gardens of Herrenhausen, which happened to be our first stop. My first glimpse of the gardens took me by surprise. The sheer enormity and splendour of the place seemed surreal. The 150-hectares of garden owe their existence mainly to the Dowager Electress Sophia. Initially under her and later under the patronage of the Anglo-Hannoverian Kings, they took their present size and form that of a compendium of various styles of garden architecture. Sculptures designed by talented artists graced the various sections of the garden, interspersed with ornamental waterworks. Every summer the gardens provide the venue for a variety of activities including performances of ballet, drama, concerts and opera. But the highlights undoubtedly are the baroque firework displays in which only a few highly regarded professionals can participate.

Our next stop was the Town Hall, the symbol of the city and an embodiment of civic pride and economic prosperity. Built in 1913 A.D. the Town Hall has seen it all — the growth, death and reawakening of Hannover. It was one of the few buildings to have survived the ravages of World War II. Today it serves as the administrative centre of Hannover. Its doors are open for visitors to enjoy the monumental architecture and for the adventurous, to make a trip to the summit of its copper-coated dome in Germany’s only inclined lift.

A few paces away from the Town Hall, stands Saint Giles Church. Instead of repairing the Baroque-style cathedral which was bombed in 1943, it was decided to turn it into a monument for all the victims of war. With wind blowing through its empty windows and no roof to keep out the sun and the rain, the church stands silent testimony to the violence and sufferings of war and teaches an important lesson in humility to all those who see it.

As we came out of Saint Giles, the day was drawing to an end. Peter showed me around Georgestrasse, the main shopping street in Hannover. I watched the people filter out of their work places and make a beeline for the various eating-houses and pubs, intent on making the most of a much-awaited weekend. Some singing and dancing picked up as people began to unwind after a long week. It took Hannoverians a long time to emerge out of the shadows of war and the journey must have been painful. But it disciplined and toughened them to work hard and more importantly, it taught them to enjoy life and cherish every minute of it. For them the Expo 2000 next year will be an event of tolerance, receptiveness and hospitality as well as an expression of internationality. Though I stayed in Hannover for a short while, I realised that not only are the sights a feast for the eyes but the spirit of the city and its zest for life inevitably envelopes one and all.