The Tribune... Travel

Travel

Chandigarh, Sunday,July 19, 1998

Peace and
progress

By Cookie Maini
From the moment I stepped onto the conveyor belt at Narita airport, I felt I had entered a world apart. The perfect quiet, extreme cleanliness, sound technological procedures, skilful organisation, in short, a perfect unison and a unique spectacle for thoroughbred Indians.
As I got out of the enormous airport, which is out of Tokyo city, I saw that there are various modes of transport to get to Tokyo coaches, trains, taxis. The other noticeable feature, instantly, is the exorbitant pricing for everything. We drove onto the wonderful motorways, festooned with floral shrubbery and lined, where limousines glide, in perfect lines. After an hour’s drive, we arrived in the heart of Tokyo. The city is built on low alluvial plains and adjacent upland hills, which reflect an undulating scenario, quite picturesque to the onlooker.
On arrival, it also struck me that Japan was a land of pleasing contrasts. The amazing strides of urbanisation ejected in skyscrapers but the monotony interspersed with greenery of sorts. Technology is juxtaposed with spirituality, as every area has Buddhist shrines maintained in their original form, untainted by modern architectural influence, and people slipping in to meditate there. The efficiency and time-bound functioning of people is accompanied by an incomparable courtesy. There is sufficient pause for the traditional Japanese bow. Virtually, every aspect of daily life is computerised and functions with the press of a button. Yet their handicrafts are thriving, as they proudly display them in hotels and shop windows.
This is the Japan summed up in the first flush of finesse, glamour and progress but it is a country with a history of stupendous struggle, sacrifice, as a result of their war trauma. They embarked upon to be the most industrialised nation of the world, and what makes them unique is that in the process of this chrysalis, they did not shrug off their traditional values. They have stuck to them steadfastly in every sphere of life, as a visitor can well perceive.
In Tokyo, there is a lot for sightseeing and the best way to get around is the convenient subway, which is spotlessly clean. Any Japanese travelling is particular not to mess it in any way. There is not even a speck of dirt visible anywhere. They buy tickets, which the computers operate, go up and down escalators on railway stations but noiselessly and with patience. For a visitor, even though, language may be a problem, the guide map of the subway is self explanatory and by hit and trial, one does find a few English-speaking people. Before catching a train, one can potter around on the beautiful shopping malls, which are there in most underground railway stations. Visitors with less time can take guided tours of the city, which start from centrally located hotels costing from Yen 4,500 to Yen 3,500. These are comprehensive and easier than groping around, when one is short of time.
The vicissitudes in Japan’s history are well known, yet every Japanese city has its own saga. There is the visible post-war industrialisation and urbanisation, even though the war scars are not visible anymore. Each city has its own saga well reflected in the buildings.
Tokyo became the capital in 1868, where a small fishing village existed it means “eastern capital”. The military rulers who had usurped power shifted the capital from Kyoto, while the emperor who remained a figurehead stayed in Kyoto.
I decided to see Tokyo by its historical stages, so I first saw the Imperial Palace, which is in the heart of the city, but encircled by stonewalled moats and rambling gardens This is the home of Emperor Akihito. Visitors are not allowed inside but from outside, one can see typical pagoda-roofed Japanese building, surrounded with gardens, concrete compounds, trees in bonsai and a variety of flowers.
There are Buddhist temples everywhere preserved in their original pagoda-roofed style and mercifully with no entry fee. In spite of modernisation, religion plays a vital role in their daily lives, as the temples are never bare. Young and old are seen praying. Tokyo has the famous Meiji Shinto Shrine dedicated to the Emperor Meiji. The shrine covers an area of 175 acres on which there are 126,000 trees. One can first ramble through this area and as pleasant breezes waft through, one inevitably gets into a meditative mood.
Another temple is the Asakusa Kannon. This is one of the oldest Buddhist temples, about 1,300-year old. Its gate has two famous figures — “The Guardian of Thunder” and “God of Wind”. In spite of scores of tourists and daily visitors, the temples are well maintained, orderly, clean and peaceful. The spell of spirituality is definitely pervasive.
The Tokyo tower is Japan’s symbol of modernisation, similar to the Eiffel Tower, except that it is coloured a blazing orange, One can have in bird’s eye view of the world’s largest city from the tower’s observation platform, 150 metres above the ground.
The Tokyo-Yokohama metropolitan area, is the largest commercial and financial centre in Japan. Tokyo is an important wholesale centre, where goods from all parts of the country and the world are distributed in both the city and its surrounding areas. After World War II, Tokyo surpassed Osaka as the leading manufacturing centre of Japan. Light and labour intensive industries predominate and the manufacture of cameras, automobiles, electronics equipment, textiles and toiletries are the major activities.
This apart, for the visitor the brightly-lit Ginza shopping district is worth walking through. Ginza, means silver and “Ja” an association of licensed craftsmen. Many of our Chinese eating places seem to have adopted this name. Ginza is a typical metropolitan hub with its brightly lit banners and neon lights, the only area in Japan where I saw some ostentation.

There is so much more to see in Tokyo, like those with children can go to Disneyland within just twenty minutes by train. There is a pearl culture centre at the Tasaki Pearl Gallery, where conducted tours take groups. Pearls to buy are far too exorbitant, some lucky participants are presented with a pearl.
Those keen to see night life can take conducted tours in the evening starting from 6.10 p.m. from certain nodal points. Tokyo can be seen at night across Rainbow bridge as it sparkles like a fairyland lit up. There is also the opportunity to savour Japanese cuisine Sukiyaki. Delicately sliced meat is mixed with Japanese vegetables. It is called Shirataki. Everything is cooked in front of you. Of course, the night life is not complete without night shows which are a plenty.
For Indians, an oft unknown fact is that Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose’s ashes are preserved in a temple. The temple is in the suburbs of Tokyo. It is not a very renowned shrine. However, the Indian Embassy has the details. The place is beautifully maintained and there is a bust of Netaji in the courtyard.
From Tokyo, since time was short, I had the option of seeing one more city, so I opted for Kyoto, the old capital of Japan, for more than a 1,000 years. It was the place of residence of the imperial family till it shifted to Tokyo. Kyoto is also known as the principal centre of Japanese culture and Buddhism in Japan. The best way to get to Kyoto is by the fast trains which are categorised according to their speed, which is a novel experience by itself for us Indians. The trains are sparkling with cleanliness, the decor is sober yet spotless, the stations have mirror-like floors, there is absolutely no graffiti visible anywhere. As the bullet train cuts through the Japanese countryside, I was wonderstruck by the tremendous industrial growth, all over but all in a uniform fashion, keeping their greenery intact everywhere. Nowhere, did I spot unwieldy urbanisation, encroachments, garbage dumps or factories spewing smoke.
On arrival at Kyoto, after three hours, I noticed how quietly people disembark, taking care to leave a clean train behind. If anything spills, it is immediately cleaned. The railway station again was as clean, even though it was the end of the day, cleaners were scrubbing the station for the next day.
There are plenty of places to stay, on the railway station itself. The tourist information centre provides all the literature about the place. There is a Kyoto visitor’s guide, which is a monthly issue replete with all the requisite information. Armed with tourist information, I realised there are three ways to see Kyoto, a conducted tour in English, buying the day train ticket and going around and, of course, for the more adventurous a walking tour conducted by an Englishman Johnnie Hillwalker.
I found that taking the coach tour was the best and quickest way of seeing the most of Kyoto. In Kyoto, one comes much closer to Japanese culture. It is also one of the traditional centres of education and art.
The Nijo Castle, where we went first was the official residence of the Shogun (the military rulers who usurped power from the Emperor) rulers since 1626, who remained the de facto rulers of Japan till 1867. The Castle is built in Japanese style called Momoyama architecture. It is surrounded by the ubiquitous gardens and ponds. The Japanese hierarchy, traditions of governance are depicted by dummies placed in the rooms, with period furniture. There are beautiful wall paintings with fish shells and vegetable dyes.
The next fascinating stop over was the Golden Pavilion temples conceptually reminiscent of the Golden Temple in Amritsar. It is also known as the Kinkakuji shrine. It is a Zen temple. It is a three- storey structure coated with gold-leaf and lacquer, surrounded by a pond. This structure looks stunning and serene, as it stands surrounded by water, which is dotted with little islands.
The Imperial Palace Plaza is the original home of the imperial family surrounded by gardens, ponds and concrete stone-laid compounds. There are other places to see such as the Higashi Hojanji temple.
However, Kyoto being the hub of art and cultural activity of Japan, is the largest centre for Asian art and crafts in the world. Throughout the year, the city is a Mecca for people looking for a connection between the nation’s hi tech present and its artisan past. To keep traditional arts both relevant to modern life and within the reach of ordinary people, the city’s craft artists are constantly seeking ways to blend the old with the new, whether it is ceramics, fashion or interior design. Kyoto people continue to honour their traditional skills in ways, that are timelessly classical and startlingly modern.
The Kyoto Handicraft Centre is an evidence of the thriving interest in art and craft. There are woodblock prints, pottery, fans, scrolls, lacquerware damascene and pearls. The making of the traditional kimonos is an art, though the dress is now worn only at ceremonial occasions, which can be seen at the centre.
A visit to Japan is incomplete, without witnessing the tea ceremony in Kyoto. This is possible at the Gion Corner, which is walking distance from the railway station. The tea ceremony is demonstrated on stage. Traditionally the Japanese would make tea, brew it and serve it to the guests, who would appreciate it in style before the hosts. Here at Gion Corner, one can also see Geisha girls dance. An insight is provided into Japanese culture which includes Japanese harp, ancient court music and dance, classical comic theatre and puppet plays. This hour-long variety programme is held in the heart of this old entertainment district of Kyoto. I was short of time but there is so much more to see. There are scores of theatres, landscaped gardens and museums.
Having visited two important cities of Japan, I feel that apart from a cultural acquaintance with the country, the sociological observations are equally fascinating and somewhat awesome.
This is a nation, which reflects unique patterns in social discipline, adherence to cultural mores, a fervent love for their country, a strong spiritual tilt in spite of hi-tech strides. This is an Asian nation from where we can certainly draw inspiration.
Forgotten martyrs
By Akshay Sood
While we were in England, we were told by a travel guide about the Chattri Indian war memorial, dedicated to the injured Indian soldiers who died battling during the World War I operations. The memorial is located about six miles away from Brighton in Sussex county of England. Brighton itself is a town with a population of one lakh, located about 60 miles away from London.

The memorial is perched on a small hillock, in the lush green meadows of Sussex. The memorial is located at a distance of about two miles from the village road, though one had to walk over six miles to reach the spot, without the aid of any car/vehicle. The memorial is in the shape of a “Chattri” like a canopy, in Indian architectural style. Hence the above name. It was designed by an English architect, specialising in Hindu architecture E.C., Henriques. It is made of Sicilian marble and is a very simple and small structure, with a small area developed, around it. Built at the memorial are three granite slabs covering the cremation spots where the funeral pyres were lit. The memorial is dedicated to the Hindu and Sikh soldiers who died while undergoing treatment at Brighton, during World War I and was jointly built by the Brighton Borough Council and the then India Office.
The memorial was unveiled by the Prince of Wales on February, 1921. It is reported that over 4000 Indian soldiers received treatment at the Royal Pavilion Hospital, and those who died were cremated here.

The Muslim Indians were buried at Working in Sussex county, another 50 miles away.
The memorial, however, suffered neglect in the thirties and forties until it was renovated in 1951 with the joint efforts of the Royal British Legion and the Indian High Commission.
Even now, officials of the local High Commission and retired British exsevicemen of Brighton, collect once a year to remember the martyrs who died fighting the cause of Kaiser-i-Hind i.e. the British Emperor. One of them was Major Henry Lincoln, a veteran of the 8th Punjab Regiment, who paid his respects at Chattri, Southdowns, on Remembrance Day in 1996. For him it was a real pilgrimage, to reach the Chattri by a Landrover, over a boggy three-mile track to pay homage to his fellow soldiers, who fought with him on the western front of France.