Trials, tribes & triumph on road to Kohima
AFTER a family trip to the enchanting Kaziranga, the Rhinos' habitat, we turned our gaze towards Kohima. This place is the vibrant home of the Kulkis and the Naga tribe, known for their rich culture and fierce self-reliance. Our journey, winding through mesmerising tea estates, lush forests, rolling hills and stunning landscapes, sparked a deep sense of wonder and wanderlust in us. As the car cruised into Nagaland, tribal rituals welcomed us. A crowd followed a group of young, bare-chested men with ash-smeared bodies rolling on the streets, hands folded above their heads in prayer. This punishing ritual was a penance to appease the deities. To complete the ritual, the devotees immerse themselves in the nearby river and present a sacrificial bird to the deities.
As our car crawled through the traffic jam and up the hill towards Kohima, the poor state of the roads added an extra layer of difficulty. With its sharp twists and turns, the undulating terrain tested our resilience and the driver's skills. A misstep on the steep gradients could spell disaster. The accounts of tourists falling prey to armed criminals and bandits on these isolated hills added a nerve-wracking edge to our trip.
Police patrols and armed constables are scarce in this area. As the sun sets early, a broken-down car's occupants are likely to be sitting ducks for criminals. The heavy mist created conditions that made driving difficult. The prolonged journey and the umpteen curves and bends took a toll on the car. Before long, our carriage malfunctioned and became immobile. The driver attempted to cool down the engine with water, but it proved ineffective.
As darkness fell, there was a noticeable absence of people. Despite our pleas for help, the passing vehicles showed no concern and sped away. Our tour agent in Bengaluru was unreachable. Eventually, the driver embarked on a mission to seek help. Being a local and familiar with the terrain and the threats, he advised us to stay in the car.
The ill-lit road also compounded our fears. My son Sachin Kumar stood by the car, using his flashlight to signal approaching vehicles. Shobha, my significant other, seemed terrified and whispered prayers to every deity she knew. We felt trapped in an unfamiliar place, far away from our home. The sporadic noise of a passing vehicle shattered the quietness. We felt relieved when the driver, accompanied by a mechanic, finally appeared on the scene three hours later to fix the car.
After what felt like an eternity, the engine roared back to life. As the car glided forward, we couldn't help but feel relief and joy. Despite the odds, the wife's devoted prayers and the driver's unwavering determination had finally paid off. A sense of achievement and gratitude washed over us. What followed was a memorable journey, but this incident remains etched in our memories.
