Travel: Basque in the glory
Perched dramatically atop a rocky islet with sweeping views of the wild Atlantic coastline is the 9th century church dedicated to San Juan de Gaztelugatxe. It is reached via a none-too-easy steep and winding trek downhill, across a stone footbridge over the Bay of Biscay, and a final breathtaking hike up 241 steps. From a vantage point just short of the descent to the bridge, aided by a little imagination, you might recognise it as the path that leads to Dragonstone, the ancestral seat of Daenerys Targaryen in the iconic fantasy series, ‘Game of Thrones’. Several such gems dot the Basque Country (Euskadi) of Spain, a culturally, geographically and historically rich landscape that often gets passed up for other Spanish splendours.
Euskadi is an autonomous region located in the far north of Spain. It is home to Europe’s oldest ethnic community, which identifies itself linguistically as the Euskal Herria — those who speak Euskara. The language is unique in that it is wholly distinct from the Romance languages spoken in Europe, is said to predate the Romans, and is possibly the oldest still spoken on the continent.
Eat, Drink, Be merry
- The Basque have a high appreciation of gastronomy. Their focus on quality, innovation and excellence has earned them a whopping 33 Michelin stars across 23 restaurants. This includes the local cuisine celebrating Nerua, helmed by Chef Josean Alija, and housed at the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. Then again, fresh fish (read cod!) and seafood, topnotch meats and fine wines are hallmarks across the rich and varied Basque food and beverage space.
- One of the best ways to get acquainted with these delicacies, especially in Donostia-San Sebastian, is to set aside an evening for an unhurried txikiteo. A bar crawl of sorts, you hop from one pintxo (tapas) bar to another, tucking into specialty small bites, traditionally served on bread, and held in place by a toothpick. A deliciously fun and spirited outing as you wash the pintxos down with glasses of beer or a dry slightly sparkling white wine called txakoli.
Basque Country is bound by the beautiful Bay of Biscay (aka Atlantic Ocean) to the north and the formidable Western Pyrenees in the northeast. This chain of rugged sky-reaching mountains has historically been the natural border between Spain and France. It also separates Euskadi from Pays Basque, its French counterpart.
by the writer
The Hotspots
For all intents and purposes, Vitoria-Gastiez, with its cobbled roads and beautifully preserved medieval quarter, is the Basque capital. Even so, it is a rejuvenated Bilbao, the former ship building port on Nervion river, which draws visitors from around the world. Especially since 1997, when the opening of the titanium-clad Guggenheim Museum entirely transformed the fortunes of this once dilapidated industrial city.
The eye-popping curves of the building aside, the museum is home to many remarkable modern and contemporary art installations — sculptor Anish Kapoor’s ‘Tall Tree and the Eye’, Louise Bourgeois’ towering bronze spider ‘Maman’, and Jeff Koons’ ‘Puppy’, believed to be the world’s largest flower sculpture, among others.
A leisurely walk away, the ancient streets of Bilbao’s Casco Viejo or Old Town teem with history, heritage, quirky shops, art galleries, and restaurants. Dominating the skyline above this pedestrian-only neighbourhood is the Gothic Catedral de Santiago, harking back to the 14th century.
A mere 100 km east of Bilbao is Donostia-San Sebastian. Celebrated for its vibrant cultural and culinary attractions, it is just as popular for its beaches, lush hillsides, and grand belle epoque architecture. This lively city’s events calendar includes a five-day jazz festival, held annually in July, and an international film festival in September. If you enjoy road trips, the dramatic coastal route from Bilbao to Donostia-San Sebastian promises an unforgettable adventure.
Gaztelugatxe, the colourful fishing village of Bermeo, and Zumaia, a geological treat, are a few of the delightful destinations en route. A short detour will also bring you to the town of Guernica and its venerable old oak tree, historically an important gathering place for Basque leaders. Devastatingly bombed by the Germans in 1937, it is today best known for inspiring Picasso’s anti-war mural, ‘Guernica’, on display at Museo Reina Sofia in Madrid.
