Bath beyond Bridgerton

The first time I visited Bath in the UK, it was known as Jane Austen’s town. But in the past few years, this wellness destination since Roman times has become synonymous with Shonda Rhimes’ historical romance drama ‘Bridgerton’. In May, Visit West, the city’s tourism body, said the Netflix series had contributed “more than £5 million to the local economy”.

Located in the valley of River Avon, the world heritage site is known for its elegant Georgian architecture, which offered the perfect backdrop to shoot the period drama. The local golden Bath Stone shines in the dominant Georgian architectural style that evolved from the Palladian revival design. The stories cast in stone change with the shifting light, be it at the Circus, designed by John Wood the Elder; the Royal Crescent, an arc of Georgian townhouses designed by John Wood the Younger; the seventh century Bath Abbey, which offers quietude in the midst of a bustling city; or the ancient Roman Baths, the thermae used for public bathing until the end of Roman rule in Britain in the fifth century.

How to reach

• Take a direct Great Western Railway train to Bath Spa from London Paddington Station.
• The train, which takes 1.5 hours to reach, runs every 30 minutes.
• Driving a car via the M4 will take about two hours 45 minutes to traverse the 185 km.

The compact city is extremely walkable, I find during an entertaining ‘Bridgerton’-themed tour set to music where our guide takes us to the plentiful sights — Abbey Green (a market square in ‘Bridgerton’), No.1 Royal Crescent (home of the Featheringtons); Abbey Deli (Modiste’s Dress Shop) and the Holbourne Museum (Lady Danbury’s house).

Later that day, I step out to discover Bath beyond ‘Bridgerton’, and find that the city has quite a few surprises up its sleeve.

The enduring appeal of ‘Pride and Prejudice’ makes a visit to the Jane Austen Centre akin to a literary pilgrimage. Set in a classically-decorated Georgian townhouse, the centre brings alive life in the Regency times via exhibits that showcase fashion, food and society. “Austen lived in Bath from 1801 to 1806, and the city impacted her writing — it found its way into two of her novels, ‘Persuasion’ and ‘Northanger Abbey’,” a gift shop staff member, dressed in period costume, tells me.

A few years later, in 1816, Mary Shelley wrote ‘Frankenstein’, the world’s first science fiction novel, while living in Bath. Mary Shelley’s House of Frankenstein, spread over four storeys, celebrates Shelley’s legacy. Special effects, spooky soundtracks and crafted smells offer an immersive look into the world of Frankenstein.

Bath’s rich literary past has survived into the present, courtesy independent bookshops that draw as many visitors as the attractions. Set in a former Masonic Hall, Toppings brings together thousands of books with curated displays and shelf ladders. Persephone offers works by out-of-print women writers while Bath Old Books stocks a range of antiquarian titles. Others include Skoobs Books, a mecca for second-hand book lovers, the community-focused Oldfield Park Bookshop, and Beaufort Bookshop, which has a curated range of new and second-hand titles. I lose my heart to Mr B’s Emporium of Reading Delights, run by a book-loving couple. Opened in 2006, the store has grown to encompass three floors of a Georgian building and offers books, subscriptions, clubs, reading spas and literary events. For a population of less than two lakh, the town has a disproportionately high number of bookshops.

Mind satiated, I decide to fuel my body by indulging in the beloved English tradition of afternoon tea. I have a problem of plenty. Should I head to the Pump Room, Regency Tea Rooms at Jane Austen Centre, Roseate Villa, Lucknam Park or Sally Lunn’s Historic Eating House? I decide to indulge at the elegant Royal Crescent Hotel, one of only two Grade I-listed hotels in the UK. A selection of delicate sandwiches, pastries, cakes and freshly-baked scones with clotted cream and strawberry preserve vie for attention. When in Bath, do as the English do, and I daintily enjoy the delicious mouthfuls!

The Holbourne Museum, Bath’s first public art gallery, offers a culture fix. Apart from Renaissance treasures, it shines the spotlight on Thomas Gainsborough, another of Bath’s famous residents. The culture of the 18th century is brought alive with paintings, sculpture, porcelain and silverware. The Victoria Art Gallery, the Museum of East Asian Art and the Museum of Bath Architecture are also perfect for a look-in.

During a coffee break, a chatty server informs me that I must come back during Christmas for Bath Christmas Market, one of the best in the UK. From November 28 to December 15 this year, 230 twinkling chalets, including artisan jewellers, cheesemongers, food and beverage stalls, homeware and handmade products will come up amid the iconic monuments. “In summer, you must take a boat trip along the Avon. You can also hire a canoe, punt, rowboat or narrow boat if you want to find your own way,” she says.

I make a mental note as I walk down the Pulteney Bridge, one of only four bridges in the world with shops across their full span on both sides. The Palladian-style Grade I-listed building by neoclassical architect Robert Adam may not have been the place to promenade, I think, as I look at Bath’s beautiful architecture. But perhaps, that’s where young women, in corseted gowns, long gloves and bright parasols, walked with their ‘mamas’ before morning calls!

As I pass the Jane Austen Centre, it’s impossible not to agree with what she wrote in ‘Northanger Abbey’, “Oh, who can ever be tired of Bath?”