The old world charm of Nob Hill

Vandana Aggarwal

Nob Hill, with its old-world charm, historical ambience and picture-perfect vistas, is San Francisco’s best-kept secret. Upscale hotels and restaurants keep it alive at all hours of the day. Once home to San Francisco’s wealthiest communities, Nob Hill today is a popular haunt for both locals and tourists wanting to explore and uncover the history of the charming neighbourhood while enjoying its laid back vibe.

San Francisco is originally believed to have been built on seven hills, one of which was California Hill. In the years following the discovery of gold in California in 1848, and the sudden wealth it bestowed on a select few, San Francisco became a boom town crowded by people from all over the world in a quest to strike gold. The wealthy and powerful businessmen, attracted by its remarkable views, made California Hill their choice of home, earning for it the nickname Nob Hill, a name that has stuck to this day. The term ‘nob’ comes from the Indian term ‘nabob’ or ‘nawab’, referring to a person of considerable wealth and influence.

Home to rich and famous

Nob Hill rises several hundred feet above the commercial districts of San Francisco. Among the earliest arrivals here were The Big Four — Charles Crocker, Leland Stanford, Mark Hopkins and Collis Huntington — all railroad barons who had made their fortunes in mining and through the Central Pacific Railroad, the first transcontinental railroad in the United States.

To outdo each other, they built expensive and ostentatious mansions. Other wealthy families followed in their wake. In the aftermath of the rise in its fortune, Nob Hill soon became the pedestal where the nouveau-riche established themselves away from the noise, poverty and crime of San Francisco.

Leland Stanford, president of the Central Pacific Railroad and founder of Stanford University, was the first to build his 25 bedroom mansion here in 1876. Legend has it that Mary Hopkins persuaded her reluctant husband Mark to build an even more ornate and lavish mansion that would outshine the Stanford home.  The Huntington Mansion was so grandiose that it was said to have provoked ridicule. Charles Crocker built not one but two stately homes, one for himself and the other as a wedding present for his son.

Robert Louis Stevenson described Nob Hill in 1882 as “The hill of palaces”. He added, “It is here that millionaires gathered together, vying with each other in display.”

The working classes came in droves to gawk at these ‘wedding cake’ monstrosities. The hill was steep and difficult to climb and a cable car line was started in 1873 to replace the horse-drawn carriages. It is still functional and an iconic feature of the city. There is also the unique Cable Car Barn & Museum where visitors can see vintage cable cars and the manually operated mechanism that keeps the system functioning to this day.

Many of these grandiose abodes made primarily of wood were obliterated by the earthquake and subsequent fire of 1906. Silver baron James Flood’s mansion was the only one left standing at Nob Hill, thanks to the use of brownstone in its construction. It still stands, aloof and snobbish, home to the exclusive Pacific -Union Club.

The Huntington Hotel, Mark Hopkins InterContinental, Stanford Court Hotel and Grace Cathedral occupy the blocks where once the mansions of the railroad barons stood. Ornate and fancy, they draw thousands of people to their rich history and stories of a glorious past.

Legend and reality

The crown jewel of Nob Hill, sometimes sarcastically referred to as “Snob Hill”, remains the Fairmont Hotel. Originally owned by the Fair family, it had to be rebuilt following the disastrous earthquake; its doors were reopened in 1907. It made its place in history when the United Nations Charter was drafted there in 1945.

At the entrance of the Stanford Court Hotel stands a granite column, the only surviving vestige of the mansion once owned by the Stanford family. The Hopkin house, often referred to as a ‘Gothic castle’, flamboyantly decorated with oak panels, ebony inlays, an ivory fireplace, marble carvings and priceless paintings, was replaced in 1939 by what is now known as the Intercontinental Mark Hopkins Hotel.

Located on its 19th floor is the legendary cocktail lounge — Top of the Mark — which features a 360-degree view of San Francisco. During World War II, distraught wives and girlfriends would flock to its North-West corner to get one last look at the warships that sailed away with their loved ones, earning for it the sobriquet ‘Weeper’s Corner’. It offers sweeping views of the San Francisco harbour and it is so popular that visitors must arrive early to get the best seats to enjoy the view.

The Huntington Hotel pays homage to the rich history of Nob Hill with the Big Four Restaurant. They serve seasonal cuisine and have a display of photographs, memorabilia and artefacts from the days when the ‘nabobs’ ruled the roost at Nob Hill. Right across is the lovely Huntington Park where the Huntington home once stood. It has as its centrepiece a replica of Rome’s Fountain of the Turtles, which was donated by the Crocker family. Locals and tourists alike sit here to enjoy the pleasant weather and soak in the spirit of the area.

The Crocker’s lavish abode featured a 76-foot tower at one end. It is said that from here Charles Crocker would survey his holdings. A part of his estate was donated to the church after the fire. Grace Cathedral, the crown jewel of Nob Hillnow, stands there. Grace Cathedral is an oddity in an area synonymous with money and power. The Cathedral built in French-Gothic style towers over the neighbourhood. As one climbs the stairs, the first thing that catches the eye is the gilded bronze doors which depict scenes from the Old Testament. The stained-glass windows create patterns across the floor and illuminate the building. This is a progressive church which welcomes people of all faiths and even has an Interfaith AIDS Memorial Chapel.

As San Francisco evolves and changes with the times, Nob Hill stands proud and tall, retaining a slice of its rich history and living up to its name of being the Hill of Palaces.

Fact File

How to reach: You can get to the top of Nob Hill by car or taxi. However, time permitting, the best way to travel there is by a cable car

Best time to visit: Any time is a good time. During the day you can catch the sunlight falling on the golden doors and lighting up the stained glass at the Grace Cathedral. Evening visitors get to enjoy the setting sun from the bar at Top of the Mark

Average budget: About 2 hours or more if you plan to dine there

Highlight of the trip: The free cable car museum to learn about its history and see photographs of the original lines and cars. You can actually watch the cables that keep these cars running turn

Let-down: This is an upmarket area and unless you are a ‘nawab’, a meal at one of the posh eateries will burn a deep hole in your pocket