The Cold embrace: Exquisite Kani shawls embody Kashmir’s cultural heritage, but are not finding many takers

Shaikh Ghulam Rasool

and Lubna Sayed Qadri

Abdul Rashid Sofi is a young artisan from Arwah village in Beerwah tehsil, Budgam, who belongs to a family of Kani weavers and has grown up weaving shawls. “I have so much respect for the craft, but haven’t taken it up professionally because it is incredibly labour-intensive and the wages do not justify the effort. It takes months, even years, of painstaking work on a single shawl, and in the end, you barely make enough to get by. Besides, there are so many machine-made replicas flooding the market that people don’t always understand — or even want to pay for — the true value of an authentic Kani shawl. I need a career that offers stability, a decent living, and a future. Right now, sadly, weaving doesn’t offer that.”

His is a story familiar to that of many young artisans in Kashmir. A labour-intensive craft, each Kani shawl can take months, if not years, to weave. The average price of an authentic Kani shawl starts at Rs 1 lakh and goes up to several lakhs depending on the intricacy of design. Ironically, the hands that weave it do not get their just dues.

Farooq Ahmed Reshi, a skilled Kani weaver from Budgam, earns a maximum of Rs 500 per day, barely enough to cover basic expenses. Despite the skill and time required to produce these shawls, artisans like Farooq get only a small fraction of the profits. The low income makes it difficult to support a family or even reinvest in their craft.

More than just exquisite textiles, Kani shawls embody Kashmir’s cultural soul — rooted in the graceful influence of Persian art, weaving together flowing floral patterns, delicate leaves, and iconic paisleys. The unmatched craftsmanship brings a timeless touch to every shawl, and is therefore celebrated worldwide.

The Kani shawl represents a deep commitment to sustainable fashion, woven with indicators of environmental responsibility and cultural preservation. Each shawl is crafted from pure pashmina wool. The biodegradable fibre is redoable and incredibly durable, making each shawl a heirloom piece that reduces the fashion cycle and waste. A Kani shawl is entirely handwoven, involving no machines or synthetic dyes. This minimises carbon emissions and water pollution.

Kani weaving is a heritage craft. The skill is passed down through generations of artisans, who depend on it for their livelihoods. By supporting Kani shawls, one fosters a circular, slow-fashion economy that respects both nature and craftsmanship.

Kani shawls are distinguished by a unique weaving technique that uses tiny wooden needles called Kanis (wooden spools). This skill dates back to 14th century, when Persian mystic Mir Sayyid Ali Hamdani, known as Shah Hamdan, introduced various crafts to Kashmir. Over time, Kani shawls evolved into symbols of Kashmiri heritage and cultural significance.

In the 18th and 19th centuries, Kani shawls gained popularity among Europe’s elite, with Empress Joséphine, captivated by their elegance, sparking a trend that spread through the French aristocracy. Napoleon himself gifted some masterpieces to her on their marriage.

Today, Kani shawls stand as resilient but fragile relics of artistry, embodying the dedication and skill of their creators. The journey to crafting a Kani masterpiece is labour-intensive, requiring skilled artisans to craft each piece.

The complex process begins with sourcing the finest raw material, wool or pashm, from Changra goats. The fibres gathered are exceptionally fine — so delicate that each strand has a diameter of 12–15 microns. The raw fibre is cleaned, de-haired and skilfully spun into a fine yarn using a traditional ‘yender’, a spinning wheel exclusively used by women.

With the yarn in hand, weavers (particularly men) move to the designing stage, meticulously conceptualising patterns and colour palettes. This planning phase is critical, as any error made at this stage is irreversible, making precision essential. The intricate designs are then encoded into a taleem, a detailed instruction pattern that guides the weavers in creating these shawls.

Once the taleem or coding is complete, the yarn is carefully dyed, and artisans begin the meticulous preparation of the warp, which involves arranging 1,700 ‘nuls’ or double threads — totalling an impressive 3,400 single threads. With this foundation in place, the weaving process commences. Younger weavers typically follow standard taleem instructions, while older artisans rely on detailed graphs to navigate complex patterns.

Kani shawl weavers have long struggled under challenging conditions. Various regimes imposed heavy taxes and exploited their craft, forcing artisans to work for paltry wages, often at the expense of their creative freedom.

Even today, despite their exceptional skills, Kani shawl weavers earn between Rs 300-Rs 500 per day. Although intricate designs can lead to higher earnings, extensive hours of labour often result in modest monthly incomes over extended periods, presenting significant challenges to the financial stability of these artisans. Each shawl tells a story of dedication and artistry, yet the economic realities they face cast a shadow over this beautiful craft.

Weaver Shabir Ahmed says, “The younger generation is less inclined to pursue Kani weaving, perceiving it as financially unstable. This has created concerns about a diminishing pool of skilled artisans. Financial incentives, stable income opportunities and skill development programmes could attract young artisans, safeguarding the future of this craft,” he adds.

“Some provisions do exist for weavers in the organised sector. But, we must not overlook the urgent needs of unorganised artisans. Many skilled craftsmen lack access to modern looms that could enhance productivity or solar lights that can enable them to work comfortably in the evening without relying on electricity as the supply is unreliable. Additionally, construction of proper sheds can protect them from harsh weather, creating a safer and more conducive environment for their delicate craft,” says Wahid Dar, another Kani weaver, who is based in downtown Srinagar.

Called the ‘handloom village of Kashmir’, Kanihama village, situated on the Srinagar-Gulmarg highway, is regarded as the heartland of Kani shawl weaving. At least 80 per cent of the 400 families of this village are dedicated to preserving the exquisite craft. In the 1960s, late Ghulam Mohammad Kanihami, a former MLA, played a pivotal role in reviving the nearly extinct art of Kani shawl weaving. Starting with just two artisans, he established a foundation that has since trained hundreds more and founded the Gul-e-Anar Cooperative Society. This cooperative successfully revived numerous historic Kani shawl designs, with four shawls dedicated to the Shri Pratap Singh Museum in Srinagar and another to the Crafts Museum in Delhi.

Kani shawls received the Geographical Indication (GI) status in 2008. The QR code-based GI status is intended to acknowledge and safeguard the authenticity of the shawls. According to the government figures, Jammu and Kashmir has granted GI tags to approximately 50,000 shawls and carpets over the past three years, and shawls worth Rs 424.20 crore were exported in the last fiscal year.

Ghulam Mohammad’s son, Sajad Ahmed Kanihami, has continued his father’s legacy. He actively engages in welfare initiatives, providing healthcare, financial assistance, and skill development programmes for the artisans. Sajad emphasises the importance of training new weavers and advocates for their rights. By helping artisans develop their marketing skills and encouraging direct sales from the village, Sajad aims to maintain the integrity of Kani shawls and a sustainable future for shawl weaving in Kanihama. In 2020, Kanihama was designated a craft village, a status that celebrates its deep-rooted role in Kani shawl artistry.

Sajad says the GI tag ensures that traditional Kani shawls from Kashmir can carry the ‘Kani’ label. However, delays in issuing the tag, which may take up to six months, complicate matters. Clear categorisation is also essential for shawls, as authentic Kani pieces crafted from cashmere wool go up to 15.5 micron range, a mark of quality not found in lower-grade replicas going above 15.5 microns. Moreover, mass-produced, machine-made shawls mimic authentic Kani shawl patterns, impacting demand for genuine pieces, affecting quality standards and hence the market.

Climate change is another pressing issue affecting shawl production. Shrinking grazing areas have reduced the population of Changra goats, the primary source of pashmina wool. This scarcity drives up the cost of raw material and restricts production, impacting livelihoods and the sustainability of the craft. To protect the industry, establishing sustainable grazing practices, supporting eco-friendly methods, and offering subsidies for artisans could help stabilise raw material costs and ensure that Kani shawl production endures.

These weavers face substantial marketing challenges, especially when participating in fairs and festivals outside Kashmir. In the past, financial support from the Handloom Department, covering rental fees, travel and daily allowances, enabled them to attend these events. However, recent cuts have forced artisans to bear these high costs, including rentals up to Rs 45,000 for 15 days, themselves. Many artisans now find it unaffordable to run stalls independently, often outsourcing them to intermediaries who compromise on the quality for minimal compensation. This not only affects the artisans’ earnings, but also jeopardises the authenticity of Kani shawls. Subsidies or logistical support could empower artisans to manage their own marketing, enhancing product quality, while preserving the cultural value of Kani shawls and improving livelihoods.

Comprehensive healthcare provisions are crucial, as many artisans lack access to adequate medical facilities or insurance, leaving them vulnerable to health issues exacerbated by their demanding work. Common problems include musculoskeletal disorders and vision problems, often worsened by the physical strain of weaving. The absence of proper healthcare support can make their later years particularly challenging, underscoring the urgent need for accessible medical care.

To protect the livelihoods of Kani shawl weavers, it is essential for the government to revise and enforce consistent minimum wage standards. Current trends reveal significant wage disparities, leaving many artisans vulnerable to exploitation and struggling to support their families. By implementing fair compensation, the government can foster a more equitable industry that values the skill and dedication of these artisans.

By nurturing pride in this rich tradition and creating viable career paths, Kani shawls can continue as cherished emblems of Kashmir’s cultural legacy, securing their place in the hearts and hands of future generations.

Creating a masterpiece, one stitch at a time

Authentic Kani shawls begin with fine wool from Changra goats, herded by nomads in Ladakh’s high mountains, sometimes at altitudes as high as 18,000 feet. In response to the region’s harsh winters, these goats grow a natural thick, warm coat. As the summer months arrive, the animals shed this protective layer, and herders hand-comb the goats to collect the delicate undercoat, which is cleaned, de-haired, and spun by women using a traditional charkha, creating a fine yarn. Skilled weavers then conceptualise designs, choosing a colour palette for warp and weft, before encoding the intricate patterns into a taleem, which serves as a guide. With dyed yarn, artisans prepare a warp of 3,400 single threads, and weaving ‘one stitch at a time’ begins a process spanning eight months to several years, depending on the complexity of design. Only GI tagging helps recognise authentic Kani and pashmina shawls.

— Rasool is a conservationist and Qadri is a development expert