Of pallus & pleats

Mona

In the world of fast-changing fashion, saree has been one constant presence. Elegant, timeless, soulful and sustainable — it checks all the right boxes! Lately, the six-yard attire has garnered much attention. Earlier this year, Miss World Australia 2022 Kristen Wright won hearts in an Archana Kochhar saree. Graciously she walked the ramp for Miss World 2024 finale in Mumbai. Lately, shuttler Jwala Gutta took on designer Tarun Tahiliani for India’s Olympic Paris attire (saree for women) calling sarees uncomfortable and odd.

Please don’t call a pre-draped saree a saree, at best it’s a dress. A saree is the clear straight yardage that can be worn in myriad ways. And so versatile that from daily wear to dress up, it rocks.  — Mandeep Nagi, director, Shades of India.

A fusion of classic and modern ensures that each piece is both a tribute to heritage and a reflection of current trends, celebrating tradition with a fresh, relevant twist.” — Sarika Kakrania, founder, Pink City by Sarika.

Saree has always been such a versatile piece of textile. It is just about styling it and draping it in a way that resonates with the modern day consumer and offers an individual take to classic saree.  – Abhishek Sharma, Creative head, Abhishek Sharma Studio

While as timeless that this piece is, wearing it is certainly not every woman’s cup of tea. To keep pace with current times, the good-old sarees have had a makeover and how!

The puritans

Those who can’t wrap their heads or hands around pleats and pallus have embraced the trend of pre-draped sarees. Saree stores in various cities, including Chandigarh, are rather happy to do that for a fee. The saree puritan abhor it though. “Please don’t call a pre-draped saree a saree. At best it’s a dress,” says Mandeep Nagi, director, Shades of India. “Saree is the clear straight yardage that is worn in myriad ways. And, so versatile, be it casual wear or dressy, that it rocks,” she adds. Nagi’s designs express her love for the opposites – fine traditional artisanship interpreted with a minimalist western sensibility — masculine and feminine — a surprising contrast of colours such as mixing orange with blue or red with grey.

For Sarika Kakrania, founder, Pink City by Sarika, sarees remain rooted in tradition. “Pink City deeply celebrates the timeless magic of the traditional saree. Our classic sarees with their intricate weaves and enduring elegance carry a profound cultural heritage that modern reinterpretations often overlook.” Her idea is to honour centuries of craftsmanship, preserving a unique connection to our past in her creations.

One significant factor about sarees is that it is sustainable. No buttons, zips to be discarded after use, one piece that stays for decades, worn by different generations and one that can be repeated with a different blouse, worn in a different style, and accessorised according to the occasion.

Modern twists

Not all, however, stick to the puritan idea. Sarees today have turned almost unrecognisable in their modern avatars. There are both takers and makers for it. “With the driving force to create something new and the knowledge of how to modernise colours, crafts, weaves and art that have travelled through centuries and yet have the same freshness intact,” offers designer Abhishek Sharma, creative head, Abhishek Sharma Studio. “We render the sleek urban screen for this luxurious masquerade of traditions breathing through various intrinsic tribes of India into our collections and the same philosophy is interpreted in the sarees we create with a modern touch,” he adds. He sees demand for it and he is there to fulfil it. “The younger generation is inclined towards pre-draped sarees as there a major shift in lifestyle and activities. Some prefer the traditional way of draping a saree and some prefer per-draped ones. Again, it’s an individual’s choice,” he says.

His brand offers a variety of pre-draped styles. Some are fully pre-draped, some are semi- draped and some have more flair than regular. “While our core remains rooted in tradition, we occasionally blend contemporary styling and innovative drapes to suit today’s woman,” says Sharma, who grew up seeing his mom wearing sarees every single day. In his designs he uses a massive variety in style and material. “Sarees are always a hot favourite and I don’t feel even the red carpet is complete without one saree look. Be it a national or international event. It’s been cherished for centuries and will also be a part of everyone’s wardrobe,” offers Sharma. And, we know it’s going to be stay the same for times to come…