How Palampur lost its glory

IT was not a big town, but rather a small one — but big enough to stay in my memories. It is worth revisiting those vivid hazy images that reflect the past in detail. Springs emerged at many places; water flowing from streams encircled the town like arteries; bridle pathways connected clusters of houses; small paddy fields punctuated the continuum; and the sprawling tea gardens dotted the terrain. There was an unwritten harmony in the town’s landscape.

In the subsequent years, it would go through an unimaginable transformation. Five decades have radically altered the town. Several springs have died and disappeared; bridle pathways have been replaced by concrete passages; waste-laden streams struggle to flow; and tea gardens are few and far between. The small town has expanded its boundaries and it is as big as it could be. There is nothing worthwhile that could be written about its expansion.

This town is Palampur in Himachal Pradesh, situated some 4,000 ft above sea level. It overlooks the mighty Dhauladhar mountains, which aren’t snowclad throughout the year. Fans and air-conditioners, which were not to be seen in the past, are now common. With so many structures built across the town and the expanded road network packed with fuel-guzzling automobiles, this change is neither dramatic nor unexpected.

Local food security is nobody’s concern as not much grows here or is allowed to grow. Packaged food in colourful plastic bags is everybody’s favourite. The net sown area in the state has shrunk in the last 10 years; this was only to be expected in the backdrop of the erstwhile small paddy fields. Tourists carry their own consumptive requirements and throw away the waste for locals to dispose of.

The decline in the net sown area is glaring. The land ‘liberated’ from farming has been put to non-farm use. In the last decade, the non-farm use of agricultural land in the state has increased drastically. Votaries of development see things differently — for them, this trend offers new opportunities and challenges.

However, the transformation of such hill towns across the state is a compelling narrative of change and adaptation. Once characterised by pristine natural beauty and self-sustaining communities, these towns have witnessed rapid urbanisation, environmental degradation and shifting lifestyles in the last few decades.

The evolution of Palampur — from a small town to a big one — serves as a poignant example, showcasing how the delicate balance between nature and tradition is being replaced by concrete structures and modern conveniences.