A taste of defiance in Kashmir
AFTER a 12-year gap, we got a chance to visit Kashmir, and that too amid the elections. Much has been said about the perceived benefits of abrogating Article 370, yet the everyday life of locals seems largely unchanged. Infrastructure has improved, but development remains a work in progress. Security measures have been tightened significantly, especially around the Badami Bagh Cantonment, where the entry now involves multiple checks, each taking five to seven minutes. If you are in a civilian vehicle, expect an even more rigorous screening. Even veterans with identity cards must undergo this scrutiny. Given the region’s history, one can accept this with resignation or a smile.
On our way to Gulmarg, we stopped for tea at a roadside hotel. I struck up a conversation with a young man managing the counter; he was pursuing a postgraduate degree while running the hotel. When I asked him about life in the Valley after the abrogation of Article 370, he reeled off a litany of complaints: unemployment, poverty, corruption, poor roads and erratic electricity and water supply. I reminded him that these issues were common throughout India. He expressed frustration over the government’s failure to fulfil the promises of resolving these problems. His application for a bank loan to renovate his hotel was awaiting approval because he couldn’t afford to pay the bribe being sought. His disillusionment was palpable as he declared, ‘Sab jhoothey hain’ (all are liars). Others, including a carpet weaver, a kahwa seller and a boatman, narrated similar stories of hardships.
Our driver, a sharp young man, was eager to drive at a breakneck speed whenever possible. During the final leg of our trip, we stayed at an Army camp in eastern Kashmir. We had a flight to catch the next day in Srinagar. Going by his word, we agreed to leave by 9 am for our 1 pm flight. Instead of taking the longer, traffic-free route, he chose a shorter path through Anantnag town, where we soon found ourselves stuck in a traffic jam. Anxiety writ large on our faces, we feared missing our flight. He confidently insisted that he would get us there by 11 am, no matter what.
After a tense struggle to escape the traffic, he hit the accelerator and drove recklessly. We clung to our seats, pleading for him to drive safely, but our words fell on deaf ears. It was a relief when we finally reached the Srinagar bypass, yet he didn’t slow down until we arrived at the outer checkpost of the airport. Just as he braked, he triumphantly held his mobile phone in front of us, showing the time: 10:59 am.
Defiance seems to be the prevailing mood in the Valley. Engineer Rashid’s win in the Lok Sabha elections reflected a pushback against the Centre. Kashmir may see some surprise winners in the Assembly polls as well in response to the hardships people after Article 370 was withdrawn.
