Mushroom country: Skip the main city centre and discover Philadelphia’s countryside, where the fungi reigns

Joanna Lobo

THIS is the mushroom capital of the world, I am consistently told. It’s my first visit to Philadelphia (Philly) and I quickly learn one fact: they love their superlatives, and aren’t ashamed to say it out loud. Philly is the ‘garden capital of America’, and the ‘birthplace of America’. The Declaration of Independence was signed here. It was home to the nation’s first library, medical school and hospital. And, Kennett Square in the countryside of Philadelphia is called the ‘mushroom capital of the world’ — beyond a tourism gimmick, they actually grow 60 per cent of the mushrooms sold in the US.

As a mushroom fan, it’s thrilling to find this fungus in everything, not just food. At the Mushroom Cap, a crowded shop on the main street, I see a short video talking about mushroom farming, and observe 3D models of the farms. But it is the mushroom-shaped dishes and inspired paraphernalia that grab attention: gluten-free mushroom snacks, preserved mushrooms turned into jewellery, charms, wrapping paper and tree ornaments. It’s a mushroom overdose of the best kind. Down the road, at the colourful ice- cream store, La Michoacana, I sample a delicious earthy mushroom popsicle.

Travel tips

How to get there: Lufthansa has a one-stop flight to Philly from Mumbai. From Philly city centre, the countryside is a 40-minute ride away.

Where to stay: The Bookhouse Hotel is a boutique hotel that holds over 5,000 books.

Fairfield Inn is a business-friendly hotel in the heart of Kennett Square.

Longwood Gardens’1906 restaurant dishes out a hearty mushroom soup, and perfectly-crusted mushroom croquettes, but this dining spot is just one of the stars of the public garden. There’s a lush conservatory, woodlands and manicured gardens, making it possible to spend hours amid the greens. I see people picnicking, admire the cherry blossoms in bloom or learn more about the owners at the old estate house. At night, on weekends, people gather on the lawns facing the fountains, huddled under blankets and comfortable on deckchairs to watch a fountain and light show set to themed music.

Longwoods is not the only fancy garden in the vicinity, though no one else puts on a show like that. The next day, I head to Winterthur that pulls out all the stops to convince me I need a garden estate to make my life better. Spread across 1,000 acres, the estate has hills, streams, verdant meadows, shimmering pools, dense forests and a mansion, carefully curated with enough art in it to be considered a museum.

My favourite discovery is ‘Enchanted Woods’. It is a play area for kids, and the child in me is delighted to see the stone house, a huge bird’s nest of woven branches, a tiny stream for fishing and stone benches for a tea party. The Baldwin’s Book Barn is a delight. Deep in Brandywine valley, in the town of West Chester, is a large farm once belonging to a Quaker family. Here, an old dairy barn is now a bookstore and library, home to over three lakh books, manuscripts, maps, paintings and more.

The floors are wooden, there’s old art and furniture crowding the rooms, and each floor has a stunning collection of rare old and new books. As if that isn’t incentive enough, the place is rumoured to have ghosts!

Elsewhere, West Chester, much like Kennett Square, is a quaint town. The streets have old record shops and thrift stores, with colourful facades, innovative names (Thistle be Perfect), and legendary dining spots like Yori’s Church Street Bakery (known for their donuts). Every shop here is run by passionate locals, eager to showcase their talents. At Éclat, chef Christopher Curtin hands out tastings of his dainty chocolate creations, including a porcini and thyme chocolate, and coloured June bugs. At Taste of Olive, I learn about different balsamic vinegars, some thick and syrupy, others almost caramel-like.

Kilwins abounds with candy and chocolate, and their legendary fudge. Chocolate, candy, enchanted woods, ghosts, mushroom ice-cream… Philly’s countryside has much to offer.