Killer looks

Shivani Bhakoo, Neha Saini & Avneet Kaur

Avni, 19, is finally getting back to normal life. At 17 years of age, her infatuation with a school senior got the better of her and this chubby Noida teenager convinced her parents to allow her to go in for liposuction — a medical procedure that removes excess fat from specific body parts using a suction technique. But her procedure went awry and she landed in hospital in a semi-comatose stage. It has taken her months of slow recovery and innumerable sessions with a psychologist to regain her agency.

Sadly, this incident is not an exception. The switch from having fun with social media filters to playing a game of roulette with injectable aesthetic fillers has been so quick that it defies reasoning at times. Glutathione, dermal fillers, laser toning, liquid carbon facials and a list of many such non-invasive procedures are lighting up the aesthetic treatment industry, where ‘brighten, tighten and lighten’ seem to have outsmarted ageing gracefully. And yes, it comes with a new set of challenges, where investing in one’s looks and skincare without the required knowledge is leading several women and men to long-term medical and psychological disruptions.

The recent death of a Ludhiana-based socialite, who was addicted to getting these aesthetic procedures done to maintain her beauty and youth, has brought the unethical treatments in the aesthetic industry into sharp focus.

The All India Institute of Medical Sciences and the Indian Association of Dermatology had earlier this year flagged unregulated and unethical practices in the aesthetic treatment industry. While internationally-certified centres ensure that procedures are conducted under the supervision of qualified dermatologists, many salons and smaller establishments rely on cosmetologists or minimally-trained staff.

“One of the dentists started her practice as a dermatologist/cosmetologist after pursuing a year-long course. No one knows whether the course was approved by the government. Since she was herself active on the social circuit, she started administering the treatments, in the process playing with many lives. But there was no check on her by any enforcement agency or the health department,” rues a renowned dermatologist in Ludhiana. She recalls how many of this dentist-turned-aesthetician’s messed-up procedures have landed patients on her table for treatment. She says she was flummoxed how some imported shots and other drugs, which were not approved, were being administered.

But what is the compelling need for women to go in for such procedures? Is the old adage of “ageing with grace” losing its sheen? “Indeed it is. Getting old is becoming socially redundant... and why would anyone want that?” says an upper middle class woman from Amritsar. “If we have money to spend and maintain our youth.

Another 58-year-old woman from Ludhiana admits that she regularly gets fillers injected in her face. “I don’t get the entire face done in one sitting. Sometimes, it’s the cheeks, at times lip fillers or the forehead. These make my skin supple and I get more confident about my looks. What is wrong with that?” she asks.

A recent innovation revolutionising the industry is IV beauty drips, offering targeted benefits like skin lightening, weight loss and hair fall management. Dr Smitha Bhatia, an aesthetic physician based in Jalandhar, highlights the popularity of treatments. “Glutathione, IV carnitine and multivitamin drips range from Rs 15,000 to Rs 20,000 per session, with four to five sittings typically required for optimal results,” she says.

Dermal fillers, glutathione injections and beauty drips that primarily contain Vitamin C, Vitamin E and Vitamin B12, and laser toning are some of the popular mainstream treatments selling off the shelf.

Then, there are therapies like PRP (platelet-rich plasma) and collagen-induction therapies, including micro-needling with radiofrequency and HIFU (high-intensity focused ultrasound). Dr Bhatia explains, “The PRP is an organic procedure that uses one’s own growth factors to rejuvenate the skin. It offers anti-ageing benefits and has been gaining traction among younger individuals. HIFU, on the other hand, employs ultrasound energy for facial contouring and skin rejuvenation with minimal downtime.” PRP procedure was introduced to the pop culture as ‘Vampire Facial’.

Both skincare treatments and weight-loss therapies, including coolsculpting, V-fit, lipolaser and lymphatic drainage, are especially popular among NRI clients, who often book these services in bulk, says Dr Bhatia. “These treatments, although expensive, deliver noticeable results. A single session of coolsculpting costs between Rs 30,000 and Rs 60,000, while other therapies range from Rs 5,000 to Rs 15,000 per session,” she adds.

Dr Ameesha Mahajan, a dermatologist based in Amritsar, shares that growing awareness among the youth has changed the medical aesthetics market. “It’s not just about aesthetics but also about taking care. Glutathione improves the colour of melanin, resulting in skin lightening. It is commonly used as a glow treatment.”

But in pursuit of glass skin comes the borderline obsession with non-invasive treatments. “There is a very thin line between looking good and going overboard and sometimes, you lose track of how it is going to impact you medically. There is a skin condition called topical steroid dependency face (TSDF), caused due to overuse of topical steroids. We have to treat people with burning sensation, redness and dryness, after they come to us with botched-up procedures,” shares Dr Ameesha.

Dr Sanchit Talwar from Dr Talwar Skin and Hair Clinic, having its head office at Chandigarh and a branch in Ludhiana, too, advises caution when it comes to aesthetic treatments. “These procedures have to be done under proper supervision of a qualified doctor. Botox, fillers, glutathione drips, Vitamin C shots, these cannot be given by a simple aesthetician. Unfortunately, there are no strict laws to check the quackery going on in the field. We get many patients with severe problems as they first go to parlours or unethical practitioners and get the treatments to save money,” he says.

There is another aspect too, he points out. “Women come and ask for a particular treatment and if we try to convince them that it is not recommended for their skin, they refuse to listen.” Dr Talwar stresses on the need for awareness.

Dr Ameesha says that her patients include all spectrums of age groups and gender. “I have had boys between the ages of 20 and 30 years coming to me for aesthetics treatments, grooms who want botox and dermal fillers. The younger lot is more confident and open about getting them done, while the older lot, say those between 40 and 50 years, shy away from acknowledging about undergoing treatments.”

What’s surprising is that the number of patients asking for these expensive aesthetic procedures is increasing from the rural areas as well. “A lot of my patients are from villages. They want to look a certain way or want better skin tones,” she says.

Dr Ameesha, who confesses that on an average she gets one botched-up case every week, says, “It’s very important to educate yourself before going in for any treatment, injectible or otherwise. Micro-needling, dermal fillers and IV drips, when administered unsupervised or done without skill, would invite serious complications. The side-effects can lead to serious allergies, skin conditions, even extreme reactions like dizziness or medical complications. Cosmetic or aesthetic procedures have often been seen in a negative light, but they are really worth it if they are used to enhance your confidence and not as an obsession.”

Psychologists believe that high income, self-esteem issues, greater purchasing power and social media exposure have led to this increasing obsession with aesthetic transformations. “In several cases, body dysmorphia and self-esteem issues are further fanned by peer pressure. Also, the beauty standards set by society usually tempt people to tick the boxes, which leads to the young and old rushing to clinics to get these aesthetic treatments done,” says Dr Nishtha Gupta, a psychologist based in Amritsar.

The choice is yours. Make an informed one.