Three Kashmiri climbers conquer deadly glacier in Sonamarg

Our Correspondent

Srinagar, June 27

A group of mountaineers, aged between 20 and 30 years, in Kashmir has achieved a historic feat by becoming the first in over seven decades to conquer one of the six deadliest glaciers of the Thajwas range in Sonamarg, Kashmir.

Inayatullah Bhat, Shariq Rashid and Waseem Raja, chose to scale the treacherous Umbrella Peak via the steep couloir, marking the first ascent on this route in 79 years.

Trio hopes to inspire more

• Inayatullah Bhat, Shariq Rashid and Waseem Raja, chose to scale the treacherous Umbrella Peak via the steep couloir, marking the first ascent on this route in 79 years.
• CWF Noyce & A Jones made history in October 1944 by conquering glacier no. 3 of Thajwas’ Umbrella Peak via Basmai Nar.
• Their historic feat was followed by John A Jackson’s ascent in 1945 over the lowest point at the west end of Kazim Pahalin Ridge.
• Bhat, who teaches mathematics, hopes that their feat would inspire scores of others and the expedition would attract international mountaineers to the Valley.

CWF Noyce and A Jones made history in October 1944 by conquering Glacier no. 3 of Thajwas’ Umbrella Peak via Basmai Nar, followed by John A Jackson’s ascent in 1945 over the lowest point at the west end of Kazim Pahalin Ridge.

“Out of the six glaciers in the Thajwas range, the third one, known for its danger, leads to the Umbrella Peak,” said Inayatullah Bhat, who is also the leader of the group.

He said, “They had concluded the expedition a few days ago. It holds significant value in the mountaineering history of Kashmir and will inspire a large number of mountaineers in the Valley.”

Bhat, who teaches mathematics, hopes that their feat would inspire scores of others and the expedition would attract international mountaineers to the Valley.

“Kashmiris are wedded to the mountains. As a child, I would explore the mountains, but in the past five years, I’ve dedicated myself to rock climbing,” he added.

Sonamarg, developed during the British colonial rule as a hub for climbing and mountaineering, saw its peak with expeditions being documented in journals like the Alpine and Himalayan.

The Himalayan Club, established in 1928 to promote Himalayan travel and exploration, however, suffered setbacks after 1947, affecting its activities in the Kashmir Himalayas.

Over the past two decades, many Kashmiris have ventured into the mountains, with a significant number opting for professional mountaineering. In Kashmir, local trekkers often aim to reach Kolahoi Peak, a mountain standing at a height of 17,799 feet in the Anantnag district of south Kashmir.

Kolahoi Peak is part of the Himalayan Range, and is located between 15 km south of Sonamarg and 21 km north from Arin Pahalgam. The peak was earlier a favourite among foreigners as it resembles the Matterhorn peak of Switzerland. With the Thajwas expedition, more opportunities are expected to open up for mountaineers in Kashmir.

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