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How Kangra’s Bhitti Chitras lost their lustre over centuries

Narrate tales of Ramayana, Mahabharata | Frescoes at Goverdhandari Temple, Haripur Fort lost
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The Brijraj Swami Temple inside Nurpur Fort depicts Lord Krishna’s Raas Leela
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Raghav Guleria

Dharamsala, August 8

The once-striking frescoes, locally known as Bhitti Chitras, birthed in the 19th century on the walls and roofs of several monuments in Kangra district, are lying in a state of utter neglect.

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Lord Rama’s return to Ayodhya after marrying Sita portrayed at Ram Gopal Temple.

Though faded over time, these artistic treasures still adorn the interiors of Radha Krishan Temple in Dadasiba, Ram Gopal Temple at Damtal, Brijraj Swami Temple in Nurpur Fort and other temples, including the Narvadeshwar, within the fort complex of Sujanpur of the erstwhile Kangra district.

The frescoes at Goverdhandari Temple and Haripur Fort have already been lost.

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These magnificent paintings were created on temple walls to showcase events from the Ramayana and the Mahabharata. Dedicated artists would skillfully paint the themes on the fresh plastered walls before the walls dried. The artists worked in perfect unison with the masonry team, creating wall plasters of lime and surkhi. Painters would create detailed impressions and add colours, completing the task while the surfaces of the walls were still wet.

The walls of the famous Ram Gopal Temple boast glimpses of the Ramayana. In a series, it shows Lord Rama Chandra in Ayodhya at the time of his coronation, Lord Hanuman carrying both Lord Rama and Lord Lakshman on his shoulders, Bharat Milap, and Lord Rama’s return to Ayodhya after marrying Sita.

Similarly, the arches of the gate and the three walls of the Brijraj Swami Temple inside Nurpur Fort give a detailed description of Lord Krishna’s Raas Leela. Despite having lost their sheen over the years, the paintings are still major attractions for devotees.

“We are losing our shared cultural heritage at an alarming rate. Over the years, weathering, dampness and human interference have contributed to their deterioration,” said temple caretaker Devinder Sharma.

The walls of Narvadeshwar Temple at Sujanpur, commissioned in 1802 by Maharani Prasanni Devi, stand decorated with intricately designed Kangra miniature paintings and carvings that narrate stories from the Ramayana and the Mahabharata, using walls and the ceiling of the temple as their stage.

“The tradition of making these frescos is no longer in vogue in the Kangra valley. However, works of art which were created over 200 years ago need immediate protection and conservation, before it is too late,” says Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (Kangra Chapter) Head LN Aggarwal.

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