Chandigarh-based designer Samarjeet is preserving traditional embroideries and integrating them into the modern fashion narrative

In an era where the essence of traditional craftsmanship often gets lost amidst mass production and commercial interests, Samarjeet, a textiles, embroideries revivalist and designer, is the brainchild behind Plumtin Trust for Folk Art Revival, a  Chandigarh-based NGO that is charting a course to breathe new life into the world of artisanal embroidery and art in general. From hand-embroidered lehengas to a broader cultural revival, Samar is committed to preserving and celebrating the rich tapestry of Indian art forms.

When Samarjeet and her team embarked on their journey with their Trust, their primary mission was clear— to resurrect traditional embroidery techniques and present them in a way that resonates with modern sensibilities. As she explains, “We wanted to take the old embroideries and bring them into something that appeals to the younger generation, like brides, so they feel it fits their personality.”

Today, the industry is increasingly dominated by industrial and machine-produced embellishments. Samar reveals, “Most designers aren’t doing hand embroidery anymore. They either do Banarasi or get industrial machine panels done from China, adding embellishments by hand. This isn’t really giving work to artisans.”

One of the challenges Samarjeet faces is the proliferation of brands that falsely claim to offer hand-embroidered pieces. She describes how some designers manipulate perceptions. “Some brands that say they are still doing hand embroidery are cheating. They get their stuff pre-made and then add final touches.” Samarjeet’s commitment to transparency means clearly distinguishing between purely hand-embroidered and mixed pieces.

Other than directly employing 150 artisans and adhering to labour laws that include providing benefits to workers, Plumtin as a Trust is further bridging the gap in understanding and appreciation of true craftsmanship by launching a significant campaign centered around the theme — “Love is a journey, Love is a commitment, and Love is a celebration.” This initiative includes reviving forgotten folk traditions and incorporating them into their work. Samarjeet explains, “The campaign features a rich blend of old and new art forms. It includes folk music, poetry and even miniature art paintings, all presented in a movie format.”

Samar is particularly excited about integrating diverse art forms into a unified narrative. “For our next project, we aim to bring together around 10 different art forms on one platform to create a larger story,” she reveals.

Samarjeet points out the importance of having artisans to sustain the revival efforts. “You can only revive art if there's somebody to restore it,” she says. This is why the project is committed to supporting and showcasing various styles of embroidery, from Parsi to Lucknowi, with a particular focus on preserving Zardozi craftsmanship.”

Team spirit

Fusion of tradition and innovation

Samarjeet’s vision is not just about preserving traditional crafts but also about integrating them into the modern narrative. "What Samarjeet is creating here is a blend of old-world traditions and new-world sensibilities, empowering us by merging the two," says Amy, who is involved in the campaign.

Artistic collaborations and Innovations

The project has garnered support from various artists. Choreographer Puneet Jwandah, who has designed the first event along with Amy and others, expresses her gratitude, noting, “The best work comes from an environment of freedom and support. I am incredibly grateful and fortunate to have collaborated with a team that deeply believes in the transformative power of the arts.”

Lighting director Gyan Dev also shares his positive experience, saying, “The amalgamation of theatrical lighting with the beautiful couture designed by Plumtin created interesting dynamics.” His background in theatre lighting brought a new dimension to the project, enhancing the visual storytelling. “The synergy was surprising to me as I saw the end result.”