Secrets of a lost city
Ranjit Powar
You do not need to be a history buff to justify a visit to Petra, a Unesco archaeological site in the Hashemite kingdom of Jordan. Declared one of the new Seven Wonders of the World, this pre-historic city conjured out of pink, red and yellow sandstone cliffs boasts of second largest tourist footfall after the Great Wall of China. The vibrant colours of the serrated rocks have also given it the name of the ‘Rose City’.
Petra was a prosperous trading centre and capital of the Nabatean empire between 400 BC and 106 AD, and later conquered by the Romans, who ruled for 250 years until it was destroyed by a massive earthquake. It was taken over by the Byzantines for 300 years and abandoned by the 8th century AD. Nomadic Arab tribes, Bedouins, lived in its caves for many years, fiercely guarding it against strangers. Lost to the world for centuries, it was rediscovered by a keen European traveller, who disguised himself as a Bedouin and learnt Arabic to gain access to this enchanting city. It showcases remains of amazing hydraulic engineering and irrigation systems, a grand, 130-foot treasury or Al-Khazneh in the Greco-Roman architecture, several tombs, places of worship and animal sacrifice. A Nabatean church sits 800 steps up a hill, and a Hellenic amphitheatre surprises you with the capacity to seat 8,000 persons. The most intriguing part of this city, nestled in the womb of gigantic canyons, is the one-km-long, natural winding approach through a narrow cleft between rock walls (Siq) rising 80m upwards, which made it unassailable to attackers. Many of you will remember this site from the film Indiana Jones and the last Crusade.
Petra covers 60 sq km of rough, rocky terrain, but there are mules, camels, donkeys and small two rider carriages available for those who are unable to walk so much. A visitor will at least spend four hours walking to the end and back to the starting point, and may want to visit the museum near the entrance. Reserve a full day for this site.
Some handy tips
- It can be extremely sunny and warm, even in good weather. It’s a good option to cover your body well and wear a large brimmed hat.
- Your footwear must be suited to walk on rocky paths with loose pebbles and stones. Rest rooms and coffee shops and restaurants are available in the site, but do carry water at all times.
- There are two restaurants offering buffets, none of which is too good.
- Outside the park, the Cave Bar is reasonable for tea and coffee and beer.
- It is advised to take a certified guide along both for guidance and to deal with the nuisance of vendors.
- For the more adventurous, there is a 10 km hike from the “backdoor”, which starts in Little Petra, bringing one to the finishing point of the Monastery.
- A light and music show called ‘Petra by Night’ is held on every Monday, Wednesday and Thursday nights (20.30 to 22.30).
- The entire walk from entrance to the treasury is lighted up with candles, and visitors squat on the sand to listen to live music, making it a romantic and magical evening with the stars hanging vividly above the majestic canyons.
Fact File
Best time to visit
Spring (March-May) and autumn (September-November) with temperatures between 18ºC and 25ºC are the best seasons to visit. The summers are hot and unbearable.
How to reach
Kuwait Air takes seven and half hours from New Delhi to reach Amman. From here, drive 230 km to Wadi Musa, Petra. Hire a cab, as public transport can be unreliable.
What to buy
On way to Petra, you will come across huge stores selling good quality inlay work furniture, wall hangings, typical Arab headscarves with a hounds tooth pattern and cosmetics made out of mineral-rich Dead Sea deposits.
What to see
The major points of interest in Petra include the Siq, Al-Kazneh (Treasury), The Theatre, Royal Tombs, Colonnade Street, Monastery, High Place of Sacrifice and the Museum.
Where to stay
There are many big as well as low budget hotels to choose from. You may opt for a Bedouin tent camp too.
