Begin with Benarasi

Mona

Fusion is the flavour of this festive season. And why not! When the East meets West, the effect is electric, especially so when it comes to fashion. Now, that we are a land rich in traditional weaves, how about wearing it zara hatke!

Seeing Chhaya Mehrotra’s Bubbly in Paris collection, we kind of fell in love with Benarasi all over again. Having tucked away the heavy wedding saris to be passed on as heirlooms, her latest collection that sets the contemporary cuts in Benarsi, one felt like reaching out to this rich fabric all over again in its new avatar.

The outfits done in beautiful shades of pinks, peaches, greys and blues, interesting floral motifs and the brilliant play of colour lend an edgy and dramatic look. Her silhouettes go well with the young brigade like crop tops, skirts in a lot of cuts with intricate embroidery giving it a romantic and glamorous feel.

There is also a story behind what makes this designer pick up tradition and present it with a twist. She, in fact, belongs to one of the oldest textile printing families of Benaras.

“I was in awe of traditional textiles quite early on in life as I grew up seeing our family’s love of beautiful designs and rich Indian textiles, Benarsi, pashmina, paithani, uppada, ikat…the name had to be mentioned and Papa could begin to tell an anecdote. Still, since we lived in Benaras we would come across Benarsi designs, techniques and new fabrics ften. The oldest textiles I own are Benarsis, and yes, they are very dear to me,” she reveals.

Chhaya pursued her post-graduation in textile design from the NIFT and set up her label under her own name.

“The designs in a brocade fabric are so intricate that to weave one such piece can take anywhere between 14 days to six months. For this reason, they are recognised throughout India as a sign of opulence and elegance,” says designer Chhaya Mehrotra.

Now, picking up brocade and fusing it in modern silhouette, options are aplenty. One can blend Benarsi fabric in interesting prints on sheer fabric like Chhaya’s latest collection. A choli in heavy brocade with sheer panels with a high centre slit running down, you can keep the colours subtle and rock it with golden pants. Or, mix and match prints and colours and design to team up a sheer top with a long dress. Add flares on the sides to keep the ‘flowing’ feel alive.

Want to hit a traditional look in contemporary style? Team up the golden blouse with a sheer long kurta. Pick up a bottom wear in contrast – pants/palazzos/skirt. What fun to have to have the best of the worlds!