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A short, tree-lined avenue from the mainland led up to an incredibly green island. Fresh, orchard- scented air filled the lungs. Vineyards, greenhouses and fields loom as one drives into Reichenau. The tiny island is dotted with innumerable vineyards, which led it to be known as the Wine Island. It is also known as the ‘Vegetable Island’ by the locals since the area under vegetable plantation is larger than the area used for habitation. The churches on the island have earned it a place on the list of Unesco Heritage sites.
It was granted a place on the list because, according to Unesco, "The churches on the island of Reichenau retain remarkable elements of several stages of construction and thus offer outstanding examples of monastic architecture in Central Europe from the 9th to the 11th century". The three Romanesque churches in Reichenau date between 9th and 11th century. These showcase the monastic tradition in Benedictine abbeys, some of which still exist in the form of the festivals and processions in the island. These were the intellectual centres during the Carolingians and Ottonians rule, the rich wall paintings on the church walls are a pointer towards the existence of beautiful monastic art during that time. However, the Unesco tag is not Reichenau’s only claim to fame. Also known as the ‘Vegetable Island’, Reichenau’s 120 farms are engaged in cultivating vines and vegetables. Grapes are still pressed in the old cellar in the monastery like it has been processed for more than a 1000 years. The island holds an annual wine and fishermen’s festival. Far back in the 724 AD, an evangelist called Pirmin laid the foundation of a Benedictine monastery on the island, which, till then, was covered with forests. The monks planted vines and the vineyards as well as the monastery flourished. It is said so successful was the venture that labour had to be brought in to handle the vineyards. As the population grew, more churches were constructed. The walls of these churches were embellished with beautiful frescoes and illuminated manuscripts were created. Gradually the 4.5-km-long island became an important spiritual, intellectual and cultural hub during the eighth and ninth century.
Reichenau has three villages, Oberzell, Mittelzell and Niederzell and all three are blessed with beautiful Romanesque churches. Oberzell has the St George’s Church, Mittelzell the St. Mary and Marcus Church and at Niederzell stands the St Peter and Paul Church, each of them a gem of architecture and frescos. The island prides itself on its green produce. One can see cabbage fields along the periphery walls of the churches. The St George Church, from a distance, looks as though it is rising up from a bed of green. As one stands before the modest church of St George with a double-storied porch, one can notice its early Romanesque structure. Inside, its walls are covered with early medieval frescoes depicting the eight miracles performed by Christ. The striking Ottonian murals are the sole surviving examples of church art from the 10th century. The first floor of the porch, in the tiny chapel of St Michael is a striking wall paintings depicting the Last Supper. It is impossible not to be impressed by the beautiful forms and colours of the murals all over the church walls, although much of these have faded with time. Bikers zoom past as one crosses the road towards the small museum with the illuminated manuscripts. Not many vehicles enter the island, which makes it a bikers’ paradise. Inside, one can find the replication of ancient narrative illustrations of the New Testament and the lives of Jesus and the Gospels. At Mittelzell, there’s a sea of red in the beautiful church. The altar, which is a bright red, is said to contain the holy relic which is said to contain the soil drench with the blood of Christ as well as scraps of fabric in a golden cross with Greek words on its rear.
Hushed whispers and bated breath convey the awe experienced by the visitors to the Romanesque St Mary and Marcus Church at Reichenau. Pilgrims, travellers, believers, non-believers, the curious and the pious, the church draws everyone who wishes to enter the portals of the place that houses the holy relic. ‘It also has a bones relic of St. Mark,’ a murmur floated across the aisle. It was lovely murals that catch one’s eye as one joins the reverent crowd making a beeline for the room that contained several historic relics. (For a small fee of 2 euro, one can gape at the priceless relics in the treasury room). The Minster of St Mary and Marcus is the largest and most interesting church on the island. The church was one of the Unesco Heritage Sites. But then, the Church of St Mary and Marcus is not the only one that distinguishes the tiny island of Reichenau. The monastery, next door, was founded in 725 by Pirmin and went on to become one of the most important spiritual centres of the Carolingian Empire. At one time, it was inhabited by 700 monks. If you thought that the island of Reichenau is just about churches and medieval paintings, you couldn’t be more mistaken. Sitting on the banks of the picturesque Lake Constance that straddles four countries, Reichenau is one of the most serene and beautiful parts of Germany. Its location makes it ideal for hiking, boating and catching some water sports. The fresh fish, fruits, wine and vegetables make it a foodie’s haven. The 767 hectare Wollmatinger Ried, next to the island, is a wetland area. It is a haven for a diverse range of migratory birds and butterflies. Thousands of water birds like black-necked grebes bearded reedlings, crested ducks, cuckoos and heron live in these marshes. Once upon a time, a large population of people in the island made their living by fishing. Today, there are just a few of them left but the Reichenau fishermen are known for their delectable catch. The restaurants are packed with people enjoying a fishy repast.
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