Food talk
Pickled delight
Pushpesh Pant

Pushpesh PantPickles have something special about them. Whether it is the unembellished kagazi nimbu preserved in salt and sugar with just a few cloves and peppercorns or the aam ki phaadi wala achaar in all its resplendent glory donning almost the entire range of pickling spices — fenugreek (methi), mustard (sarson), nigella (kalonji) and cumin (jeera) seeds, fennel (saunf), chilly and turmeric powders and what not. Pickles have for generations inspired cooks to play around with piquant ingredients to create mouth watering delicacies like achari murg and achari gosht not to be confused by pickled chicken, mutton or fish.

Seldom does one encounter a vegetarian recipe to rival these traditional champs. In the hills of Uttarakhand, in times gone by, gaddu ka gajaika was prepared for marriage banquets where most guests were orthodox and eschewed garlic and onions. The dish, though a vegetable, was explained to plains folk as kaddu ka achaar. Old memories turned green when Shammi, our beloved daughter-in-law, cooked a short-cut dinner after a hard day's work and served pumpkin in pickling spices with phulka. Perfect comfort food that deserves a wider patronage.

Achari Kaddu

Ingredients

Pumpkin (yellow, sun dried) 1 kg

Heeng 1 pinch

Sugar 1 tsp

Amchur/imli extract 1 tsp

Red chilli powder 1 tsp

Cumin seeds 1 tsp

Coriander seeds 1 tsp

Black peppercorns 1 tsp

Saunf (fennel seeds or aniseed) 1 tsp

Kalaunji seeds ½ tsp

Methi seeds ½ tsp

Black rock salt ½ tsp

Mustard oil 100 ml

Green chillies (deseeded, slit) 2

Red chillies (whole dried wiped clean) 2

Curry leaves A small handful

Method

Peel and chop the pumpkin. Heat oil to smoking point in a pan, reduce heat and put in the heeng and as it dissolved add the spice seeds. When these begin to crackle, add chopped pumpkin and the powdered spices along with sugar, amchur or imli and black rock salt. Stir to mix well. Cook covered on medium flame, stirring pumpkin from time to time and mash to pulp as pumpkin softens. When done, prepare a tempering with red and green chillies along with curry leaves. Pour over the subzi to transform it into its achari avatar.





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