Food talk
Bitter but beneficial
Pushpesh Pant

Pushpesh PantNeem or margosa in English is a wonderful plant. It has now been proved by modern scientific research that its different parts are medicinally beneficial.

From the health of teeth and gums to skin and digestive tract, the use of neem is prescribed as prevention as well as cure.

But little did we know that in some parts of our vast and varied land, neem flowers are relished as a vegetable.

Recently, our host treated us to this dry preparation which we relished — in small measure to be truthful — a great deal. When we were waxing eloquent about our 'discovery' a friend from Andhra Pradesh deflated our balloon by describing in great detail the recipe for vepuddu podi.

A word of caution — if you don't have a penchant for beautiful bitter varieties like karela and methi, etc. — you may pair neem ki subzee with aloo or any other vegetable of choice. We just love it with phulka, poori, parantha or rice.

Method

Heat ghee in a thick-bottomed pan, add neem flowers and gently stir-fry ensuring not to burn these. Heat remaining ghee and put in urad and chana dal, red chillies, cumin seeds and roast till both dals turn brown. Grind with the lentils in a blender to a coarse powder. Add salt and cumin seeds powder. Dry roast til seeds, if using, and sprinkle over the subzi.

Resist the temptation to treat this preparation as chutney, podi (gunpowder) or substitute for achaar. Don’t overpower the hint of bitterness that is its USP. Don't add khatai of any kind — amchur, nimbu, imli or anything else. You can combine with other seasonal vegetables to fortify the dish!








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