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It took just one visit to the upside down house in Fengjing to confirm my belief that the world is best the way it is. Fengjing is one of the smaller ‘water towns’ in the Yangtze delta, close to Shanghai, China. It is more than 1500 years old but recently it has added to its attractions an Upside Down House.
It is located in the Polonia Park area in the Jinshan district. At the entrance to this double-storeyed structure, there is a notice which says, "Weak people, patients with cardiovascular disease, hypertension and drink should not enter." I have neither of these afflictions so I couldn’t imagine how a simple stroll inside could cause any problem. Once through the entrance door, I learnt how. The floor, which was actually the slanted roof, tilted to one side. This was what probably caused the disorientation. The furniture was stuck on the roof, which would have been the floor had the house been the right side up. Even the kitchen and bathroom fittings were all hanging from the ceiling (aka floor). The children in our group were scampering around merrily but I held on to the wall and slowly shuffled my way around. I was walking on what would have been the sloping roof of the upper floor. Around one corner I saw a staircase going up. It was funny climbing steps that were supposed to come down. On the upper floor was the drawing room and here, too, the furniture and the planters were fixed to the ceiling. The television was on and, of course, the screen was upside down.
After about 10 minutes, I began to feel a little dizzy. Carefully, I made my way downstairs (that should have been going up). The slanted floor accentuated the queasiness. As soon as I saw the exit door, I bolted out and was immensely relieved to find the world was as it should be: the right side up. This funny house is close to the Artists’ Village, also known as the ‘Home of Chinese folk painting’. In cottages spread in a bucolic landscape, dozens of artists produce works of what is known as the Jinshan style. One sees examples of that on the facades of buildings at the entrance to the town. The colours are vivid but everyone seems to be painting the same kind of pictures. In one of the cottages we saw a woman painting four identical miniatures simultaneously. The paintings are on sale but I had the feeling that these would get added value if these were displayed individually. Art should not seem to be mass produced, even if by hand. The art museum in the village also showcases some excellent specimens of this school. The town is known for other handicrafts as well, including furniture — carving, kitchen murals, festival lanterns, paper-cuts and embroidery.
Even before the newer landmarks came up, Fengjing has been known for its canals and waterways. These take us through a China that one can no longer see in places like Shanghai and Beijing. The water is muddy but the ride goes under gracefully arching stone bridges, along old stone, brick and timber houses where old women seated outside look at us as if we had come from Mars. One also can see red lanterns hanging under the eaves, which must look pretty when their lights are reflected in water at night. Fengjing has a large industrial area also where, among other things, the Greely company produces black London taxi cabs for worldwide export. The town’s name is also associated with a famous breed of pigs. FACT FILE How to get there: Fengjing is an hour’s drive from Shanghai, which is connected by direct flights to Delhi. Tours can be arranged by Shanghai hotels. Having an English-speaking guide is advisable. Best time to visit: Any time of the year but check the weather forecast. Most activities are outdoors, so plan your trip when heavy rain is not expected. What to buy: Paintings and handicrafts. You will need to hone your bargaining skills. What to eat: Local cuisine, such as dingti (pig’s feet), doufugan (dried beancurd) and huangjiu (rice wine) for the enterprising but those not so can always fall back on McDonalds or conventional Chinese food.
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