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food
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Sublime but subtle stew
Pushpesh Pant
 The
Kerala delicacy that is usually paired with that sublime
'bread' appam is a stew, redolent with green cardamom and cinnamon and
subtly flavourful. It is mild yet overpowering in the best sense of
the word. For years it has been our favourite. But may the old flame
forgive us our trespasses. Lately, we have found it impossible to
resist the allures of kurma that isn't even distantly related to the
North Indian korma. More often than not, what is served in eateries
claiming to be inheritors of Malabar's culinary legacy is a melange of
seasonal vegetables in coconut milk-based gravy tasting slightly sweet
and lacking in character. What led us astray from our beloved stew was
something different - dark in hue, strong of body with piquancy and
tang to match. This is what we share with our readers now. It can be
paired with chappati, parantha, even poori or steamed rice. Easy to
prepare it is refreshingly different. Strongly recommended.
Shallot
Mushroom Kurma
Ingredients
Shallots small 200 g
Madras onions (peeled)
Button mushrooms 200 g (wiped clean and halved)
Tomato 1 small (chopped, optional)
Onion (peeled and sliced) 1 small
Garlic ginger paste 1 tsp
Bay leaf 1
Cinnamon 1 inch piece
Peppercorns 1 tsp
Black cardamom 2
Tamarind extract 1 tsp
Brown sugar 1 tbsp (level)
Turmeric powder 1/2 tsp
Cumin powder 1/2 tsp
Coriander power 1 tsp
Coconut milk 1 cup
Red chillies 2 whole (soaked in water and ground coarsely)
Oil 3 tbsp
Method
Heat oil in a pan; when
it reaches smoking point put in bay leaf and whole spices. When these
change colour, add chopped onions and stir fry till translucent. Now
add garlic-ginger paste and whole red chilli paste and tomatoes. Stir
fry on medium flame for a minute; put in shallots and mushrooms along
with tamarind extract, brown sugar, powdered spices and salt. Cook
uncovered stirring regularly for two to three minutes. Reduce flame to
low and slowly stir in coconut milk mixed with 1/2 cup of water to
avoid curdling. Simmer for five minutes and remove from stove. Serve
with what chapatti or rice.
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