FOOD TALK
Gift of the desert
Pushpesh Pant

Necessity, they say, is the mother of invention. Nothing seems to illustrate this better than the Gatte ki sabzi. Denizens of Rajasthan have for generations survived without access to fresh, green vegetables. This classic is their staple delicacy. Nowadays, gatte, like dhokla and jalebi are often refined and enriched with paneer but we think that violates the traditional recipe. Essentially, the joy of savouring Gatte ki sabzi is to relish the unalloyed fresh taste of besan — preferably freshly ground. The test is making the stuff light enough to simply dissolve in the mouth. Some fry them but we love the steamed-boiled rendering. Many vegetarian restaurants have included gatte in their menu and you can buy these readymade like bari and mongodi off the shelf at some places but nothing matches the home -cooked stuff! One Sunday, afternoon, not long ago, friend Khinv Raj from Jodhpur treated us to gatte with pudina-laced gravy and we were left licking our fingers. 

Gatte ki sabzi

Ingredients

Besan 1 cup

Dahi (not sweet, ideally a little sour, whisked) 200 ml

Jira seeds 2 tsp

Red chilly powder 1 tsp

Dhaniya powder 2 tsp

Jira powder 2 tsp

Haldi powder ¼-1/2 tsp

Hing A large pinch

Salt To taste

Pudina leaves (cleaned and washed well) A large sprig

Oil 

Method

To prepare the dough, mix besan, sift it with a little salt and sprinkle half the jeera seeds and powdered spices in it then mix it with sufficient water to obtain firm dough. Divide it in equal portions and roll in to small 'tubes' about an inch thick. Boil two cups of water in a pan and put the gatte tubes in it. Reduce the flame to medium and cook for about 10 minutes. Remove and cool then slice into bite-sized discs. Put oil in a karhahi and when it reaches smoking point, reduce the flame and dissolve the hing in it. Then add the powdered spices, along with salt dissolved in ¼ cup of water. Stir well and cook for a minute, then add dahi in a slow, steady stream stirring continuously and briskly ensure that it doesn't curdle. When dahi is cooked, add two cups of water and bring to boil. Add gatte discs and simmer on low medium heat for 10-12 minutes. Add pudina leaves, cook for two more minutes. Temper with mustard seeds and whole red chillies if you like spicier stuff.





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