A statue of Guru Raghavendra at Mantralayam

If what you are seeking is a quiet holiday in an easily accessible place and with pleasant weather, Mantralayam in Kurnool district of Andhra Pradesh is an ideal place. That is if you want a holiday where you are not racing out in the morning to catch a sight-seeing tour or paying up for a camel ride or elephant safari. This is a holiday which gives you time to laze around, has a river telling you the kind of stories you would like to listen to, distant from a horde of pilgrims whom you can see and not hear if you wish not to, a quiet meditative recourse, should you wish to go to the temple and lots of natural beauty.

To the spiritual, the mention of Mantralayam comes with ting of recognition. Yes, it is the place where Guru Raghavendra swami rests within a tomb. He is a follower of Madhavacharya, a 12th century Bhakti movement philosopher. The tomb or Vrindavana, the sacred burial structure is the central pivot of Mantralayam. All life revolves around the temple in one way or other.

Of course, some interesting things that this brings to fore is shopping for kumkum or incense, but be cautious about astrologers and palmists who are sitting by the way side. They have an uncanny knack of hailing you with something that is either bothering you or had been on your mind. If you succumb to them, you are letting yourself into trouble. They will find something wrong with your future (as though you did not know already) and make you do one ritual after another to appease the celestials. It does not, however, come with a guarantee that the celestials are appeased or even aware of what you are spending thousands over.

Sri Manchalamma Temple at Mantralayam

To the non-believer, Mantralayam is a scenic spot along the banks of River Tungabhadra against a backdrop of the Western Ghats. The Tungabhadra, it is believed, was known as River Pampa in the Ramayana. The river is a confluence of Tunga and Bhadra, two rivers flowing through Karnataka. All along the banks of both Tunga and Bhadra, there are places of spiritual interest and significance. The temple town of Mantralayam lies in Andhra Pradesh, close to the border of Karnataka. It is about 250 kms from Hyderabad and a little more in distance from Bangalore.

Mantralayam has well furnished guest houses and hotels. Good food is in plenty which can be had either in the kitchens of the temple or in the city which caters to a large number of pilgrims. This holiday will allow you to watch people, the devout, the holidaying pilgrim, the rich and influential devotee and the local hospitality enterprise. Or else if you walk a little away from the river just behind the temple, you can find a secluded spot and sit with yourself and yourself.

The city itself is small and the short walk to the river belying the spirit of the rebellious river. The river flooded the city (because the flood gates to the dam were opened all too suddenly) in 2009 causing much damage to many structures but the holy shrine. Every person you meet in the area tells you of the how beautifully and magically the city was restored.

Now for that winning tip to women on how to maximise the holiday to Mantralayam: carry a saree with you. Entry to the temple follows a dress code. Do not get dissuaded and not go to the temple, believer or non-believer. It is a beautiful structure which brings a sense of peace and wonder. The main focus of visit is a small tomb like structure within which Guru Raghavendra swami is said to be living.

Men have to wear dhotis and an upper cloth (no shirts, a la Salman Khan) while women wear sarees to go into the temple. Once inside you realise that it is believed the saint incarnated as Prahalada and so you hear many stories of Prahalada, the son of Hiranyakshipu. Many processions and ceremonies go on, on an hourly basis within the temple. Even though many devotees throng there, there is a certain quiet within the temple which has wide corridors and the ashram for monks.

Mantralayam causes a resurgence of the spiritual even in the non-believer for somehow one is aware of the presence of the divine.

FACT FILE

How to reach: The closest railhead is Mantralaya road. Adoni, another major rail junction is 55 km from Mantralaya. Regular buses ply from there as well as from Bangalore and Hyderabad

Where to stay: Guest houses are available for accommodation only through the corporate houses and permission has to be given by the company. The lodges are good and reasonable at ~3,000 for a double-bed AC room. Vet functional room area available for ~500 upwards and the temple has free night stay facility in one large hall.

Where to eat: Good food can be got from Sri Udipi Krishna and SR Tiffins. Puliyogare and pongal are also available at the temple on payment.

Best time to visit: The best time to visit Mantralayam is between October to February.

What to buy: Not much shopping can be done there except for articles related to worship.

Special tip: Mosquito repellents come in handy.