TRAVEL
Of wine trails and water cruises
From watersports to wineries, the Finger Lakes region of New York State has unlimited appeal
Niku Sidhu

Sunset at Lake Cayuga which is the longest of the 11 lakes Thinkstock
Sunset at Lake Cayuga which is the longest of the 11 lakes Thinkstock

Taughannock Falls in Ulysses are a popular tourist attraction
Taughannock Falls in Ulysses are a popular tourist attraction

A winery in the Finger Lakes area. It is the largest wine-producing region in New York with over a 100 wineries
A winery in the Finger Lakes area. It is the largest wine-producing region in New York with over a 100 wineries

Cornell University building at Ithaca
Cornell University building at Ithaca
— Photos by the writer

Come summer and thoughts of serene cool waters bombard our mind space; the enthusiasm to reach this serenity increase proportionately to the rise in temperature. Lakes provide the ideal combination of inviting waters to wade in, calm enough to canoe and clean enough for a midnight dip.

The glacial Finger Lakes in the state of New York are narrow strips of linear lakes, which viewed aerially look like tender fingers, reaching out across a nine thousand square mile area; hence the name. Conde Nast Traveller features these lakes in their list of top 10 must visit lakes.

Although there are 11 lakes, Lake Cayuga and Lake Seneca, named after local tribes, are the more popular of the whole lot. The two vie for the top slot; Cayuga is the longest at 38 miles, Seneca the deepest at 620 feet, both three miles and a half wide. All lakes are on an approximate north-south axis, steep on the east and west edges and shallow at the north and south; a peculiarity of the carving by glaciers in the last ice age. The most popular is Lake Cayuga which boasts of hosting at its southern tip the town of Ithaca and the famous Cornell University. For reasons obvious, Ithaca is alternately called a gorgeous town and a gorges town.

There is no dearth of activities to choose from. The top of any tourist’s list is a visit to Taughannock Falls in the town of Ulysses. Glaciers dug out Lake Cayuga and set the stage for the falls to cut their gorge. Dropping from a height of 215 feet, it is the tallest free-falling waterfall in the north eastern USA. For establishing a perspective, suffice it to say this is 33 feet higher than Niagara Falls although greatly lesser in volume.

A sculpture in stone shaped mainly by water, floods and frost serving as additional tools, the canyon was chiselled consistently over the last 12,000 years. In winter, wet rocks freeze and splinter around the waterfall and gorge walls, widening it further. The falls are named after an Indian warrior who staged a raid in the region during the colonial period and in Algonquin language mean ‘great falls in the woods’. The travellers to the lake area are recommended parking by the lake or gorge trail walk to take the mile-long walk on the gorge trail along the water. The other option entails some amount of climbing on the south rim, closed in winters. Either approach, the sight of the water gushing down from what appears to be the top of the world as you stand looking heavenwards is singularly an awe-inspiring experience. Follow it with a walk up to the fall; overlook for a great photo opportunity with the water rolling off at eye level.

The town of Ithaca merits a visit for its slow pace, the beautiful university campus and pleasing restaurants such as Moosewood dedicated to vegetarian local organic delights. Besides you could slip into the Museum of the Earth or take the constellation encrusted gateway to the Johnson Museum of Art with no extra burden on your budget.

In Seneca Falls, interestingly, the Women’s Rights National Historic Visitor Centre is associated with the beginning of the women’s rights movement in the USA. Spearheaded by Lucretia Mott and Elizabeth Stanton among others in 1848 the First Women’s Rights Convention discussed the "social, civil, and religious conditions and rights of woman". A landmark resolution was passed. "That woman has too long rested satisfied in the circumscribed limits which corrupt customs and a perverted application of the Scriptures have marked out for her and that it is time she should move in the enlarged sphere which her great Creator has assigned her". Hunt House, Wesleyan Chapel and the Women’s Hall of Fame help one get a historic view.

The Finger Lakes area is the largest wine producing region in New York with over a hundred wineries and vineyards, Riesling being its signature selection. The Cayuga Lake Wine Trail is America’s first and oldest; winning over five thousand national and international medals.

Apart from waterfalls, a wine and cheese trail, the gorges, museums and undulating drives, water is the biggest appeal. Hire a sailboat or go fishing for rainbow and lake trout from the private or public marinas; on the other hand, explore the option of a cruise with Cayuga Lake Cruises.

Cycling is bliss in this land of gentle gradients. Although there are no cycling tracks, there is a 101 mile circuit around Lake Cayuga. Pick a smaller stretch or go the whole hog; it’s one of the best ways to discover upcountry roads, stopping by in the village of Lodi to treat yourself to an oversized ice cream cone. Then enjoy an evening of a free music concert or play at the Hangar Theatre. Let it be the grand finale.

QUICK FACTS

Getting there: Direct flight from New Delhi to New York City are available. The Finger Lakes area is a five-hour bus ride further.

Getting around: Hire a car or bike, the region has a nonexistent public transport system.

Where to stay: There are all kind of options from camping or a luxury bed and breakfast to spas, hotels, motels, etc.

Best season: May to September.





HOME