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ATRIP to Nainital during January and the reactions pour in, "Are you crazy? You'll freeze. People go to hill stations in summers not in winters." But the lovely hills of Kumaon beckoned for a wintry holiday. Nainital, the popular lake resort, is nestled in the Kumaon hills of Uttarakhand. The adjoining hills are verdant with pine forests with fantastic views of the valley beneath. In winter, usually dozens of honeymooning couples can be spotted walking around the Mall, clad in layers of woollens. The lake side is brimming with merry makers. Unmindful of the dipping temperature, the lake was overflowing with boats crowded with tourists this year, especially after the snowfall. "This is the land of the Yaksha — midway between the land of men (in the plains) and the land of gods (in the Himalayas)," said our boatman as we took a serene sail around the beautiful Naini Lake, right in the centre of the town. For locals, the Nainital Lake is considered to be almost as holy as the Mansarovar Lake in Tibet. Surrounded by lofty peaks and green hills, the beautiful lake is divided into two parts: Malli Tal and Talli Tal (upper and lower lake). The elegant Yacht Club lies at the end of the lake. It is said that the Nainital Yacht Club is the highest yacht club in the world with many specially designed yachts to cope with the mountain winds. The road on the side of the lake is called thandi sadak, which means "cool road". After the boat trip, one can stroll into the adjoining Tibetan market, which overflows with enthusiastic crowds. Rows and rows of shops selling woollen caps, jackets, socks and mufflers draw shoppers like bees to a honeycomb. We heard several tourists ask the locals if it would snow. "No one can tell," replied one shopkeeper. "Nainital weather is like a moody woman. It can change in a minute." The temple of Naina Devi at the northern end of the lake draws devout tourists. According to legend, the temple is the spot where the eye of Sati, Shiva's wife, had fallen when the Lord scattered the parts of her body around the country. To cater to stomachs growling with hunger, there are dozens of tiny restaurants near the Tibetan Market. All kinds of food, right from momos to dosas and kulchas are available. Stretching from one end of the lake to the other, connected by the beautiful mall, overhung with the drooping willows, are the shopping centres. In the heart of the town is the playground called the Flatts. Life in the town centres around the Flatts. Whether it is the shopping, club, cinema hall or the lake, everything is ringed around this area. Discovered in the early 1800s by the British, it was only in the mid-1800s that it became a popular hill resort and a place for education. Several famous schools and colleges found their place in the town. The famous Sherwood College is one of them. P. Barron, a British sugar trader who, upon chancing on this place, was so awestruck by the beauty that he gave up his business, and built a European colony around the lake. Later, the British authorities began constructing their holiday homes, offices and public schools. The famous Raj Bhawan, which the British constructed in 1897, is modelled on the design of the Buckingham Palace. Situated in a vast area and at a high altitude, the building is awesome. This is the place where several important dignitaries - both British and Indian - have stayed when they visited Nainital. An 18-hole golf course attracts avid golf players from across the world. The 50-acre golf course surrounded by pine and oak trees is one of the most enchanting ones in the country. Time spent in Nainital without going to the view points is like going to Switzerland and not seeing the Alps so a visit to the famous Snow View is must. To do so, one can take the aerial ropeway that connects Malli Tal side of the lake to the Snow View point. One will be rewarded with the breath-taking vista of the snow-clad mountains glittering in the sunlight. The spectacle of the Himalayan Range in the distance is simply stunning. The views are spectacular from China Point, Dorothy's Seat or Tiffin Top as it is also called and Suicide Point; each one has a different perspective, one better than the other. Despite the unenthusiastic reactions, winter time in Nainital is an unforgettable experience.
Factfile Reaching there: The nearest railhead is at Kathgodam, about 35 km. It takes about one hour from there to Nainital. A drive from Delhi to Nainital will take around six and a half hours. Staying there: Like most hill stations, there are umpteen options to suit your budget. There are lots of these hotels located on the other side of the Mall road. Best budget options are the Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam Rest Houses. They are clean, comfortable and inexpensive; their website is www.kmvn.org Shopping: Browse for shawls, woollens and readymade clothes both at the Mall and the Tibetan Market; local handicrafts, fruit juices and pickles. Don't miss the delicious litchi juice and the rhododendron juice. Local honey is worth buying. Eating: The Kumaoni raita and its tangy mustard flavour; rus with its umpteen pulses, Kappa, a spinach dish with the special Kumaoni touch, are a must try.
Globetrotting
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