TRAVEL
Thailand at a glance
Muang Boran, the largest open-air museum in the world, showcases Thailand’s north, central, south, east and west
Ranjita Biswas

A replica of the 900-year-old Preah Vihear temple, exquisitely decorated, is reminiscent of Angkor Wat temple complex devoted to Lord Shiva
A replica of the 900-year-old Preah Vihear temple, exquisitely decorated, is reminiscent of Angkor Wat temple complex devoted to Lord Shiva

A view of a lotus bridge in Muang Boran
A view of a lotus bridge in Muang Boran

An imposing statue of Buddha inside a temple
An imposing statue of Buddha inside a temple

A replica of early Thai temple architecture
A replica of early Thai temple architecture

Early Thai houses were made of bamboo and thatch. These were built on stilts to save the people from flooding
Early Thai houses were made of bamboo and thatch. These were built on stilts to save the people from flooding

An old temple in Muang Boran
An old temple in Muang Boran

A palace of the Ayutthya period
A palace of the Ayutthya period
Photos by the writer

TT is an ancient city, Muang Boran, just one hour’s drive from Bangkok. However, it needs some clarification. ‘Muang’ meaning city or land in Thai language, and 'Boran' meaning ancient, is a reconstructed ‘ancient city’ built in 1963. Within an area of 320-hectare designed roughly in the shape of the kingdom, Muang Boran introduces the visitor to the five regions of Thailand — Central, North, Northeast, East and South.

Reputed to be the largest open air museum in the world, Muang Boran is situated close to the Crocodile Farm in Samut Prakan province. It is perhaps one of the best kept secrets of the capital city’s outreach tour destinations.

The aim of the museum park is to preserve the cultural life of Thailand and introduce people to the heritage of Siam, the old name of Thailand. As its founder Lek Viriyaphant, a rich businessman, who has passed away, wrote, "When most people are not given any chance to access and understand their own country’s cultural heritage, how can they appreciate and be proud of it?"

Hence Muang Boran showcases every region of Thailand with its distinguishing architecture, the lifestyle of the people, etc. to give the visitor a glimpse of Thailand in a nutshell. The 116 structures within the park faithfully replicate the country’s famous monuments and architectural attractions. Some of the buildings are life-size replicas of existing or former sites, while others are scaled down. These have been constructed with the assistance of experts from the National Museum to ensure historical accuracy.

Through the centuries, Thai architecture has absorbed influences from the surrounding countries like Cambodia, Laos, Malaysia, Indonesia and China. Use of sandstone for construction predominant in early Khmer masonry and colourful chien nian techniques used to decorate Chinese temples are also found in Thai houses.

Building styles in different periods and styles as in the monarchic periods of Dvaravati ( 7th-11th century), Sukhothai (12th-14th century), Ayutthaya (14th- 18th century, Lanna (13th-18th century) are beautifully and authentically represented here.

Before sandstones and bricks, early Thai houses were made of bamboo and thatch. These were built on stilts to save the people from flooding which is common in Thailand, keep away predators and also accommodate livestock. Notably, this kind of construction can be seen in India’s North East, especially those built by the tribal communities. After all, Thailand has a close relation with this part of the country and many ethnic tribes migrated from the South East Asia to the country’s North East. The park showcase these houses complete with living quarters which you can enter and see.

Floating markets of this riverine country are well-known. In the northern part of the park you can visit a market like this complete with little shops, houses, et al. built along waterways or khlongs. There are small ‘restaurants’, too, to beat the hunger pangs.

The Hindu influence peaking in the Ayutthya (Ayodhya back home) period and also coming with the Khmers from Cambodia (of Angkor Wat fame), who ruled for here for a long time, are evident in instantly recognisable images of Hindu gods and goddesses, image of churning of the sea to obtain amrit , the predominance of the lotus flower, etc. The Chofahs are the iconising emblems that distinguish Thai buildings. These look like curvy fingernails extending out of roofs as a symbolic ornament that represents the Garuda, the bird that carried Lord Rama. India’s Ramayana is the ‘Ramakien’ of Thailand and pervades its cultural ethos side by side with Buddhism.

Beautiful wats (temples) with the Buddha in different poses are strewn across the park. Some long-lost temples and monuments have been reconstructed from historical references like the Khao Phra Viharn, and Phnom Rung from the era of Khmer down to Wat Mahathat of Sukhotai period.

The 900-year-old Preah Vihear temple, exquisitely decorated, is reminiscent of Angkor Wat temple complex devoted to Lord Shiva. This temple’s real location, a Unesco heritage site, has been a point of dispute between Thailand and Cambodia for a long time now, both claiming it to be its own. The problem arose due to border mapping in post-colonial period. Things went to the extent that the International Court of Justice in The Hague had to be approached. The recent ruling in November by the court in favour of Cambodia has not solved the problem though, and cross-border tension has been escalating as per reports.

Among the outstanding works in the Ancient City is the former Sanphet Prasat Palace of the Ayutthya period which uses greys and whites beautifully to give a majestic look. It was destroyed in the Burmese invasion of 1767 after which the capital had to be shifted to Bangkok.

At the exit point is constructed an old style market. Women are seen weaving clothes on traditional looms, knick-knacks are sold. There is even the replica of old opium house and gambling joint which were common in the market place in olden days. On special occasions street shows and processions take place amidst shopping alleys.

Visitors can hop on to tram coaches run by the authorities with local guide to go through the park. Some also hire bicycles or golf carts. But exploring on foot the huge ground is not advisable. You will not be able to visit most places or could get lost despite the map with the layout.

Fact File

How to get there

By taxi or as part of a travel tour group from Bangkok. Takes about one hour, a little more in heavy traffic days.

What to do

Explore the grounds to soak in the history of Thailand

What to buy

Traditional Thai hats, shawls, knick knacks.





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