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On the banks of Krishna
Vijayawada is an important railway junction on the Delhi-Chennai route. It is a delightful combination of modernity and tradition
Sudhamahi Regunathan

A view of the Vijayawada railway station
A view of the Vijayawada railway station
The Kondapally fort
The Kondapally fort

As the aircraft turns around to descend, one can see rice fields down below. Patches of beautiful water laden fields with young, green sprouts raising their heads above the standing waters nodded a hearty welcome. The airport at Vijayawada only reiterates the mood. It is such a tiny building that you feel you are back in the 1960s when Delhi’s Safdarjang airport looked much the same. As you venture into the city of Vijayawada, it keeps the promise the rice fields and the old fashioned airport made to you — it is a delightful combination of modernity and traditional areas awaiting development.

The Kanaka Durga temple is located in the heart of Vijayawada
The Kanaka Durga temple is located in the heart of Vijayawada
One of the major attractions of Vijayawada is River Krishna
One of the major attractions of Vijayawada is River Krishna
The famous Kondapally toys
The famous Kondapally toys
The Mangalagiri sarees are worth a buy
The Mangalagiri sarees are worth a buy

The old-timers know of Vijayawada as an important railway junction on the Delhi-Chennai route. This is where as children we would be tantalised by local salesmen who would board the train and show us wooden toys in bright colours. Before reaching Vijayawada we would have crossed the largest river and barrage, River Krishna. These fond memories of the city definitely make it worthy of being a holiday destination.

One of the major attractions of Vijayawada is River Krishna. One of the two male rivers in India, Krishna flows majestically on. At some points one finds it does not have water but that will fill in once they open the gates of the dam. As you drive through the city, you find some roads running parallel to the canals that spread themselves into it. A secret worth letting you into is that the best time to drive through most cities of India is early in the morning. There is no traffic and the garbage is generally collected and either removed or put in a corner, so the city looks clean. It is also the best time to stand on the bridge over Krishna which is very crowded in the evenings.

The main street in Vijayawada is the MG road and that is a nice broad road flanked on either side by well -presented shops. Garments, sarees, salwar suits and designer wear not to mention jewellery describe the passion of the people of the city.

The main attraction of Vijayawada city is the Kanaka Durga temple located in the heart of the city. It is a beautiful temple which has many legends associated with it describing the triumph of devi. Once again early in the morning it is easier to have a peaceful darshan. Otherwise the queue is long and arduous.

To the south east of the city is the town of Mangalagiri. It is famous for its sarees. A trip to the town is well worth it. You can see the weavers working from washing and colouring the yarn to actually sitting down in handlooms or power looms and weaving the cloth. In addition, for a shopaholic there cannot be a better opportunity than this one — traditional and new designs stand shoulder to shoulder and sometimes you are able to buy it off the weaver himself.

There is also an ancient Lakshmi Narasimhan temple in Mangalagiri which is worth visiting. If you have the time and inclination, climb up to the temple. This is possible only during the monsoons or in December-January. At other times of the year it is very hot in Vijayawada to undertake any outdoor excursion. There is a hill road that leads you up to the temple anyway. The temple has two parts, one uphill and one at its foot. The one on top of the hill is believed to have been swayambu or self-created. The one below was built by Krishna Deva Raya.

To the west of Vijayawada city is the town of Kondapally. It is a small place which has been made famous because of the wooden toys it makes. Kondapally has a forest adjoining it and that becomes the source of work for these craftsmen. The forest is excellent for trekking and hotels organise tours to it. Beautiful waterfalls and green all around should make it a lovely visit. As for us, we went during the rains and that was not a very good time. The mud roads were slushy and we did not have the time to trek.

We did however go to the area where the traditional toymakers live. In every house in that colony, people are busy making toys. It is made from the soft wood from the village and you get some very beautiful artefacts ranging from key chains to Dasavatara figures, toys for children and some colourful mobiles. Take care to walk the entire length of the street before you buy because the shops towards the beginning are more expensive.

The Kondapally fort is worth a visit too. It is undergoing some renovation, but as you drive uphill, you see part of it under construction.

No holiday is complete without a little bit about the food. Vijayawada is for those who like it spicy. And almost everything is pickled`85some of the most delectable pickles are made and packed very well, convenient for packing n your suitcase. This is a must to buy!

Fact file

How to reach: Vijayawada has a small airport and has direct flights from few places. From Delhi, you have to take a hopping flight via Hyderabad.

Best time to visit: Monsoons if you do not mind the rains or December-January (It is quite hot the rest of the year. During monsoons humidity is high but temperature becomes bearable.)

Best places to stay: Vijayawada has many hotels, three star and below. Hotel DV Manor and Gateway Hotel are some of the good places to stay with room tariff being about Rs 4000 per night.

What to buy: Pickles are a must to buy. Vijayawada also has showrooms selling sarees of Andhra, be it Pochampalli, Uppada, Venkatagiri or the local Mangalagiri.

Special tip: It is best to take cotton clothes while travelling to Vijayawada.





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