|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
travel Words can only make a futile attempt to translate this 3-D vision. Ladakh is a nature lover’s delight, a land of indescribable vistas and always ready-to-surprise weather. It leaves you breathless for two reasons. One, the high altitude rarefies oxygen, and two, the scenic disclosures it reveals, literally takes away your breath away. Not to worry, almost all cab drivers carry an oxygen cylinder. Flight of fancy To begin with, the flight from Delhi to Ladakh is one of the most exciting flights in the world. If you are lucky to be flying on a clear day, you get to see the peaks of K2, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum and on the other side of the aircraft, you could reach out and almost touch the Nun Kun massif. It is an exhilarating experience — of seeing huge mountains from such close quarters in their varied hues. These mountains are rugged, forbidding, intimidating, alluring, bewitching and absolutely enchanting — in their nakedness. For, they are barren — due to high altitude they don’t receive rains. In between these tall, barren mountains, you get glimpses of glaciers, rivers and green valleys. Ladakh is also called the moonland, so, when you are there, leave behind the earthly competitiveness and the maddening crowds. This land doesn’t have traffic signals. A laid back and leisurely pace will help you acclimatise better with the Ladakhi way of life. Perhaps, this attitude is acquired by the locals to be meditative. Huge, lacquer coloured prayer wheels dot the landscape, young and old can be seen spinning the prayer wheels and turning their rosary, in silence. Apart from selling the traditional silver jewellery with semi precious stones, mainly turquoise, coral and lapis lazuli, the local market in Leh will surprise you with its nicely dressed women selling over-sized vegetables. The supposedly barren land’s fertility has been explored only recently, resulting in the enthusiasm of the locals for their home-grown vegetables. In slow motion If you have flown to Leh, rest for at least two days to acclimatise your body to the high altitude. Eat light and drink plenty of warm water. From the third day onwards you can take short tours of the famous sites around the town. Do not miss Shanti Stupa (13,999 ft), a Buddhist stupa built in Japanese style in Chanspa district, in 1991 by Japanese Bhikshu Gyomyo Nakamura. The stupa holds the relics of the Buddha at its base, enshrined by the present Dalai Lama. It also offers a bird’s eye view of the valley. Other monasteries that you must not miss are Thiksey and Hemis. Thiksey, approximately 19 km from Leh, is known for its resemblance to the Potala Palace in Lhasa, Tibet, where the present Dalai Lama spent his childhood. The 12-storey complex built on top of a hill, houses embellished stupas, thankas, frescos, and an amazingly beautiful 49-feet-high statue of Maitreya, the future Buddha. Hemis monastery is around 45 km from Leh, the drive is rugged and at each turn it opens breathtakingly colourful mountain ranges—red, purple, brown and tinged with mustard. Here, you begin to understand, Nicholas Roerich’s works are not exaggerated. Mountains do wear dramatic colours. On entering the monastery, your eyes encounter a huge mountain enveloping and overlooking the monastery, making you wonder, how on earth could someone built a monastery in such an inhospitable terrain in the 11th century! The history of this monastery is as unique as the bright coloured frescos that dot it. The main chamber, where elaborate prayers and rituals are performed, has frescos dating back centuries and tall, sturdy wooden panels support an intricately designed roof. The prayer wheels behold you by their spinning grace, if you have the faith, they respond to the touch! The masked dance performances of this monastery are well-known On the highest roof Travelling to the famous Nubra valley requires an Inner Line Permit (with 6 photocopies) from the DC’s office at Leh (not given to Pakistani, Chinese and Sri Lankan nationals), which can be procured only before noon. The valley is about 150 km from Leh. The gateway to the valley is through Khardung La, one of the highest motorable roads in the world at an elevation of 17,562 ft. Beyond 24 km, from South Pullu, the road is all gravel and dust and is constantly maintained by Boarder Roads Organisation. Along with the rugged mountains, you encounter bright-hued shrubs and flowers in pink and golden yellow. Where the twain meet Once the descend begins from Khardung La, all along the way you are bewitched by a seemingly endless range of snow-capped peaks and ridges of the Zanskar, and to the north, the giant mountains of the Saser massif. The two rivers that flow through the valley, Shyok and Siachen, sprinkle the valley with green dots of oasis. Nubra or Ldumra in Ladakhi means the valley of flowers and Siachen means a bunch of roses. If you are surprised to see twigs loaded with roses, chances are, it is Siachen rose. Nubra is lower in altitude than Leh, at 10,000 feet, and Diskit, its headquarter, offers plenty of affordable hotels and luxury tents for stay. The 114-feet high Maitreya Buddha statue, the landmark of Nubra Valley, built on a hilltop, rises dramatically from the backdrop of towering mountains, adding colour to the landscape. To get a panoramic view of the entire valley, its best to climb the hill that houses 14th century Diskit monastery. It has several frescos of fierce guardian deities. But beware of high-speed winds that gush in from nowhere, without a warning. Walk around Hundar, a quaint village with dainty prayer wheels, to witness the lifestyle of the simple village folk. Or, climb to Tirith. Nubra valley was part of the caravan route between Tibet and China, and has several trekking sites, along the countryside. The valley is also the natural home of the double-humped Bactrian camel. Here, you also get to see white sand dunes, with a marvellous backdrop of towering white mountains, snow-capped and sand-draped, and the famous golden yellow sea buckthorn shrubs. Amidst this mesmerising spectacle flows the Shyok river, lending all its flowing magic to create phantasm out of a reality. Statutory warning: If you are looking for shopping malls, casinos and a Disneyland, Ladakh is not the place for you! Quick facts How to reach Nubra The closest airport to Nubra valley is Leh Kushok Bakula Rinpoche Airport, about 120 km from Diskit. Jet airways, GoAir and Air India have connecting flights. Due to the weather conditions, all flights arrive and depart at 7 am. From Leh jeeps are available to drive to Nubra. Where to eat Do not miss Pumpernickel German Bakery at Leh. Gesmo has the old-world charm. Visit Rancho’s Coffee shop in the campus of the school where 3 Idiots was shot. Diskit has many restaurants to suit all tastes. What to buy Woollen jackets, Ladakhi shawls, silver
jewellery.
Globetrotting
|
|||
|
|
|||
