TRAVEL
Of pavilion, pier and pubs

Nivedita Choudhuri

you’ll never get bored of Brighton and its landmarks. If the Royal Pavilion — the spectacular seaside palace of the Prince Regent (George IV) — does not enthral you, the Pier will.

Throw in gentrified Regency squares, museums that appeal to mavericks and a clutch of well-upholstered parks with conventional cafes attached — and you have a city that truly caters for all tastes.

The Brighton pier at dusk
The Brighton pier at dusk

Built for the Prince Regent, later King George IV, in stages between 1787 and 1823, the Royal Pavilion is noteworthy for its exotic oriental appearance both inside and out. This glorious royal palace was revered by fashionable Regency society and is still a unique landmark for vibrant Brighton and Hove today. The Royal Pavilion is also home to some of the finest collections and examples of the chinoiserie style in Britain.

The Royal Pavilion started as a humble 18th century farmhouse. Architect Henry Holland helped George, Prince of Wales; transform his seaside retreat into a striking neo-classical villa – known as the Marine Pavilion. Brighton was then developing from a fishing town that was falling to pieces to an established seaside retreat for the rich and famous, being close to London. The city suited George who was arrogant and a wastrel with a passion for fashion, the arts, architecture and good living.

In the early 19th century, after George IV had succeeded his father as king and hired the eminent architect John Nash, the exotic grandeur of the Royal Pavilion as we see it today was finally unveiled. Nash transformed Holland’s modest Marine Pavilion into an Indian-style palace.

The building now houses Brighton Museum and Art Gallery and the Dome Concert Hall. The Royal Pavilion gardens were designed by Nash as a picturesque pleasure ground for the king. George enjoyed entertaining and surrounded himself with courtiers and fashionable guests. His ostentatious tastes, combined with his desire to impress, are evident throughout the Royal Pavilion. The palace became in itself a complete work of art, kitted out with eye-catching French, English and Chinese export furniture and objects, and adorned with gilded dragons, carved palm trees and imitation bamboo staircases.

A view of the Royal Pavilion
A view of the Royal Pavilion

From December 1914 to February 1916, the Royal Pavilion was offered for use as a hospital for troops from the Indian Corps wounded in France and Flanders during World War I. Paintings, archive photographs, contemporary accounts and film footage recall lucidly an extraordinary and often forgotten story from Brighton’s history.

There’s nothing quite like a bracing walk along the promenade or a stroll out to sea on Brighton Pier to clear heads and revive appetites. The Victorian Pier has an assortment of food and drink outlets, fairground attractions and a Palace of Fun arcade. It is famous for its thrilling rides that will spin you around, turn you upside down and send you hurtling towards the sea.

The Pier has many food and drink stalls to suit all taste buds. There are kiosks that offer everything from Chinese noodles to Belgian waffles and whelks to sugary doughnuts. So, sit back on your deck chairs and relax while looking out to the sea with a plate of fish and chips. You may take home a Brighton Pier Candy Rock as a souvenir of your day on the Pier.

There’s more to Brighton than its Royal Pavilion and Pier. It has a number of museums. Besides the Brighton Museum and Art Gallery at the pavilion, there is Booth Museum of Natural History, Brighton Toy and Model Museum and Brighton Fishing Museum at the seafront.

St Peter’s church
St Peter’s church 

Though Brighton is one of the least religious places in England, (the 2011 census revealed that 42 per cent of the population profess no religion), it has some notable churches. The 11th century St Nicholas Church is the oldest building in Brighton, called the Mother Church. St Peter’schurch is situated near the centre of the town. Built between 1824 and 1828, it is one the finest examples of the pre-Victorian Gothic Revival style. A must-see inside the church is a beautiful pipe organ built in 1888.

Brighton largely owes its popularity to the railways. After the arrival of the railway in 1841, it became a popular destination especially for day trippers from London as it is less than an hour from there. Don’t miss Volk’s Electric Railway then. It runs along the beach from Brighton Pier to Black Rock and Brighton Marina. Created in 1883, it is the world’s oldest operating electric railway.

Art flourishes comfortably here. Each May the city is host to the Brighton Festival. It is the second largest arts festival in England (after Edinburgh). The festival showcases an open house event by the local artists. The city also has a place called the Artists Quarter. Situated between the two piers, it is a row of Victorian fishermen’s workshops that has been converted to small galleries and studio spaces where artists exhibit their work.

Brighton has a thriving gay scene, which ranges from leather bars to techno clubs. It has long been known as the number one gay seaside resort in the south of England. As well as the usual tourists, the city acts as a magnet for lesbians and gay men from all over the UK and abroad who are attracted by its bohemian atmosphere and the annual festival in August known as Brighton Pride for the Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual and Transgender (LGBT) community. Brighton truly rocks!

FACT FILE

Getting there: National Express coach from Victoria Coach Station in London. Train from London Victoria or London Bridge station to Brighton.

Staying there: Holiday Inn, Brighton seafront. The hotel is a 30-minute taxi/train ride from London Gatwick airport. Rooms from `A370 per night. There are many other hotels for all budgets.

What to do: Visit its various parks, museums and theatres like the Brighton Dome, Pavilion Theatre, Komedia, The Old Market, renovated and re-opened in 2010, Theatre Royal which turned 200 in 2007. It is also known for its pub culture.





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