Roman holiday
Tanushree Podder

A historic Catalonian town in Spain, Tarragona is peppered with magnificent structures of the yore and conjures up vivid pictures of the past

A view of Tarragona town

Tarragona, a historic Catalonian town, doesn't make any pretence of shrugging off its glorious past. One of the few remaining Roman towns in Spain, it wears its tag of being a World Heritage Site accorded by Unesco quite seriously and it doesn't hurt that the tourist inflow remains unabated. One of those enchanting towns that conjures up vivid pictures of the past, it has been touched by the bustle of the modern life though. Once known as Tarraco by the Romans, the town is peppered with magnificent structures of the yore.

During summers a pleasant indolent air pervades the town. People bask languorously on the beaches; tourists traipse along the ancient second century amphitheatre while the shopaholics browse through the boutiques that stand jowl to cheek in the ancient cobbled lanes. Roman arches and stone walls vie for attention amid dazzling shops.

Factfile Reaching Tarragona If you decide to drive from Barcelona, which is highly recommended if you wish to enjoy the picturesque coastal road, Tarragona in about an hour's drive. A fast train from Barcelona will take you there in half an hour while the slow train will reach you in about an hour.

Eating there If you are a seafood lover, Tarragona is the place for you. El Serrallo, which has the fishing docks, is chock-a-block with restaurants that have the best seafood. Tapas and paella are worth sampling as is the area's famous romesco sauce. You will be spoilt for choice as far as food is concerned since there are umpteen tapas bars and cafes in the Rambla Nova area, and Placa de la Font. Shopping Splurge on Spanish brands like Zara, Bershka, Mango, Stradivarius and Massimo Dutti. Staying Hotel Lauria and Astari are three-star hotels that provide good value for money. For a more expensive hotel, opt for AC Hotel Tarragona by Marriott or Hotel Tarraco Park, which are four stars.

Roman aqueduct, also known as the Devil's Bridge, stretches across 25 miles

Wandering along the crumbling city walls is like walking back 2000 years, into a Roman town. Sited strategically on a rocky outcrop, poised above the sea, the town was occupied by Iberians and then Carthaginians who yielded to the Romans. Tarragona was once cultured Roman town with its impressive amphitheatre, splendid arches, towering columns, incredible forum, wide streets and temples.

The town has two distinct parts, the largely medieval, walled upper town called the La Part Alta, and the affluent modern hub called Eixample, which forms the lower part. Running between the two parts is the boulevard known as the Rambla Nova. Lined by cafes, restaurants, boutiques and tapas bars, this street culminates at the palm-fringed Balcó Del Mediterràni, meaning the Balcony of the Mediterranean. One can catch an overwhelming view of the Mediterranean from this spot.

The historic town lies at the other end of the Rambla Vella. This area holds some Roman temples and vestiges of a once-splendid forum and the famous amphitheatre. In fact, most of the ruins from Tarragona's Roman past are found here.

Entering the amphitheatre it is easy to visualise the past — 15,000 spectators baying for blood while the gladiators sparred for life. Blood and gore will always remain connected with this structure. The third century saw some Christians burnt to death in this arena. All that remains today are the churches built to commemorate that tragic event. If you trudge up to a higher tier you can catch a magnificent view of the blue-green sea.

A mural in the ruins. — Photo by the writer

The impressive Circus constructed by Emperor Domitian, is reputed as the largest one in Roman Empire. It was here that the chariot races were held, amidst lustily cheering crowds. A huge tower dating back to the first century BC looms up from the circus. On the stadium walls it is possible to spot some etchings made by the slaves who constructed the circus. A well-preserved labyrinth of subterranean passageways can give you the goose bumps as you traverse its cold length. One can sense the cold shadow of a thousand slaves who had laboured to put up the construction.

The annual Tarraco Viva festival is an important event when Tarragona mutates into Tarraco and life is lived the Roman way. Gladiators' combat, chariots race, people jostle each other on the circus, keen on catching a glimpse of a glorious past that is recreated in the town.

Right amidst the ancient city stands the Fountain Square with its Town Hall overlooking multitude of tapas joints, souvenir shops, cafes and cappuccino bars. High above the town stands a 12th century cathedral, which was constructed over an ancient Roman Temple. To stand there is to rewind to an era in which toga clad men worshipped their gods - Juno, Jupiter and Minerva. The cathedral, with its beautiful stained glass windows, blends Gothic and Romanesque architectural features, which make it an eye-catching structure. Several beautiful Belgian tapestries dating back to the 16th century adorn the peaceful interior.

The ancient second century amphitheatre

It was time to move a little out of the town to witness the marvel of a Roman aqueduct. Known as the Devil's Bridge, the aqueduct once carried its precious ware along a stretch of 25 miles through ups and downs. Its efficiency could put our pipelines to shame.

A hungry stomach does not allow extensive loitering. There are numerous cafés to remedy that. Sangria, the fruity red wine blend, is a local speciality available everywhere. Wash down a plate of delicious paella with a pitcher of sangria. Another must-try is the romesco — a tomato and herb sauce combo — a special offering of the region. Every Spaniard worth his name loves food. It is quite acceptable to spend nothing less than three hours indulging in a gastronomic experience.

One couldn't be at Tarragona and not enjoy its beaches. Sitting on the fine sand, watching the crystal clear water and the sinking sun, life can't get any better.

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