|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The tiny town with a few thousand inhabitants was teeming with as many tourists that weekend morning. Brandishing cameras, using their umbrellas as walking sticks, they clambered the steep, cobbled lanes echoing with the babble of tongues.
San Gimignano, the small Tuscan town, had cast its spell on the visitors quite successfully. Sitting pretty on a hilltop, its lofty towers outlined against the blue sky, the town has made its way to the Unesco heritage list as well as the itineraries of most tourists travelling to the Tuscan region in Italy. Situated in the heart of Etruscan landscape, the town is no stranger to foreign footfalls. In the past few centuries, the erstwhile Etruscan village has doubled as a Roman settlement and been a stopover for pilgrims as they made their way to Rome during the Medieval times. Over a period of time, it became an important trading centre. Interestingly, it is one of the few Italian towns that cultivate saffron. Prosperity was the natural fallout of trading till the town was ravaged by black plague and San Gimignano fell under Florentine rule. Come Renaissance and the artists arrived. Talented artists like Ghirlandaio, Benozzo Gozzoli and Pinturicchio left their marks on the town, turning the ancient walls of several structures into an exhibition of art.
Today, San Gimignano witnesses the footfalls of tourists as they crowd its piazzas eager to grab a look at the masterpieces of the Renaissance. Those who don’t come for art, come because it is a beautiful place made famous by a few movies that were shot in the town. Franco Zeffirelli’s blockbuster Tea with Mussolini did more for the place than all promotional efforts of the Tourism board. The picturesque setting, high stiff walls, shuttered wooden windows, narrow cobbled lanes and fortified houses make it a typical Tuscan town. It is the soaring towers that set it apart from the neighbouring towns. At one time there were no less than 72 towers built by the wealthy families as a demonstration of their power and riches. It was typically the case of ‘higher the tower, the more important the family’. Today, there are just 14 of these symbols of supremacy remaining for the visitors to gawk at. But these power structures are stark, grim, windowless and sinister. San Gimignano is a crowd puller. It is difficult to dodge the tourists during the peak of season; most of them day trippers. The town’s attraction lies in the rather grim towers and also the masterpieces of Italian art housed in its historic centre. The well preserved Medieval atmosphere only enhances its magnetism. Touring the neatly laid out squares, twisting lanes, defunct fountains and wells, we made our way towards the heart of the town. The Piazza della Cisterna and the Piazza del Duomo are the main squares around which the town is laid. A Medieval well lay in the centre of the Piazza della Cisterna, topped with coins and currency proclaiming its current use as a wishing well by tourists who wanted to return to the town. The piazza was named after this 13th century cistern. Bordered by some of the tallest towers in the town, the piazza is flanked by medieval structures with mullioned windows. The restaurants and gelato shops around the piazza did brisk business as the swelling crowds looked for distraction.
The Piazza del Duomo is packed with people. Since the Collegiata — San Gimignano’s 11th century Duomo, Palazzo del Podesta, the Pinacoteca, with its exquisite paintings and Palazzo Comunale, all important sights of San Gimignano are crowded together in the little square so it is understandable why it is a tourist beehive. Inside the Romanesque Collegiata lies a cache of beautiful frescoes, which are the biggest draw to the town. Right from Bartolo di Fredi’s fresco Cycle of Old Testament to scenes from the Life of Christ painted by the artist Lippo Memmi, Taddeo di Bartolo’s Last Judgment, Benozzo Gozzoli’s St Sebastian and several frescoes of Santa Fina cycle by Domenico Ghirlandaio, the place is a treasure-trove for art lovers. The stunning masterpieces ensure mile long queues at the ticket counter, each morning. The Palazzo del Popolo and Museo Civico, a hop and jump away, are the other repositories of masterpieces of several Renaissance artists. Those with sturdy feet and muscles can climb up the steep Torre Grossa to catch a spectacular view of the adjoining areas. Those not known for athletic activities can console themselves by walking towards the public garden sited on the highest point of San Gimignano. Once known as Rocca di Montestaffoli, it was built as a watch-spot to keep an eye on the goings-on in the area. From there you can catch a brilliant view of the rolling hills and verdant valley, sparing my muscles the painful climb to the tallest tower in town. Having done the bit about art and culture, it is time to taste the local cuisine. Make way to nearby atmospheric Trattoria. It may prove to be one of the best gastronomic experiences of Tuscan fare, especially its decadent gelato.
|
|||||||
|
|
|||||||
