Weaving a tradition
Shama Rana

In times of powerlooms, there is a need to preserve traditional crafts like tana-bana. These offer richness of art besides the pleasure of owning a hand-woven product

The dexterous hands of 53-year-old Munesh Kumar have relentlessly been working for more than 48 years on the tana (warp), running vertically and bana (weft) running horizontally of his loom. It’s a delight to watch the pride in this old man’s eyes as he shows some of his priceless testimonials and continues blabbering in Hinglish, explaining the nuances of this traditional art.

"Madamji, I was five-year-old when I took to weaving carpets. It was all in the family. My father passed on the tradition and I have known nothing but weaving ever since."

Apart from weaving carpets, he smilingly exhibits his skills to the onlookers and points towards the framed photographs of the likes of Prince Charles evincing interest in the traditional art and crafts showcased here.

Started at the initiative of late Brigadier Maharaja Sawai Bhawani Singh to enable dozen of national and state award-winning artists and craftsmen to sell their products directly to the visitors, this space presents a riot of colours — exotic patterns and eye-catching display of sarees, quality miniature painting, Kundan jewellery, marble objects d’art, fragrances, blue pottery, block printed textiles, and lacquer products of Rajasthan, mainly from Jaipur.

According to Indian mythology, warp threads are the sun and weft threads are moon and both eventually weave the celestial tapestry. In earlier times, weaving was a highly patronised and promoted art. Weavers were so prized that they were often given away by the royals as part of a bride’s dowry.

The USP of Rajasthan carpets lies in its superior quality, designs that are unique to the state and comparatively low prices. The work of weaving carpets is being done in the rural areas of Jaipur, Tonk, Alwar, Dausa districts.

Carpet is woven on a handloom by interweaving tana and bana. The complete designing process usually takes around 20-25 days. Traditionally, the designs used in the carpet are created manually. Tana -bana mainly uses natural fibres like cotton, wool, jute etc.

Two sets of warp threads are alternatively raised and lowered to form shed. Through this shed, the shuttle is passed carrying across the weft thread which is beaten against the woven fabric with a reed. When the heddle is shifted, the two sets of warp reverse position, binding the weft into the fabric and opening other shed are made.

While weaving, one interprets verbally the graphical design into a special weaving language called ‘boli’ and the other person on the loom accordingly interlocks the threads into a carefully woven network of threads known as tana-bana.

Shedding separates warp threads, according to pattern to allow for weft insertions. As soon as, a weft yarn is inserted, the artisan beats up the weft with a reed.

Services of artisans like Munesh are also being hired occasionally by government agencies to instruct aspiring weavers sponsored by other states of the country. Munesh Kumar acknowledges the magnanimity of Jaipur’s former royalty, which has always been extending patronage to the arts and crafts of the state.

Says he, "This practice of promoting art and crafts began way back in the 18th century by Maharaja Sawai Mansingh II, who set up state patronised 36 ‘karkhanas’ meant for different crafts.

Services of artisans like Munesh Kumar are hired occasionally by government agencies to instruct aspiring weavers.
Services of artisans like Munesh Kumar are hired occasionally by government agencies to instruct aspiring weavers. Photos by the writer

Although the programmes started by the Development Commissioner for Handlooms, Ministry of Textiles, have supported the handlooms by providing yarn at cheaper rates, dyes and chemicals, credit, technology upgradation, skill up-gradation, marketing, etc. but the weavers are uncertain about the future of this art.

Ask Munesh if his children would follow their father’s footsteps, a distant look, coupled with a momentary silence, greets you before he blurts out, "Madamji do ladke hain, khud krenge jo karna hoga. Waqt ki maang hi aisi hai" (Madam, I have two sons who are free to take up any vocation that interests them. Demands of time are such). Clearly, he senses the setbacks in terms of stiff competition from well set power looms; the handloom sector has suffered in last few years.

There is a dire need to preserve this dying art as in the present times of mechanisation, tana-bana offers a unique richness of traditional art and pleasure of owning a hand-woven product.





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